Question on new Lenses

**mikesbike** · 08-05-2018, 12:59 PM - **3 Likes**

Welcome to the forum. If you are in the US, I am rather surprised you did not find and consider the DA 18-135mm zoom lens, which is often bundled with the K-70 as a kit at a good savings. The 35mm and 50mm lenses you have are good lenses, however. The advantage of the Pentax DA 15mm f/4 Limited is its incredibly small size, in addition to its excellent imaging quality. I carry my camera in a belt/shoulder-strap holster-type case, and the little 15mm LTD WA lens goes easily into the case's front accessory pocket! I just put a patch of bubble wrap in the front for extra protection.

As an alternative, when desiring more range and flexible framing, the very fine DA 12-24mm f/4 is an excellent lens- highly recommended.

The DA 21mm Limited is wide angle also, but far less so than the 15mm lens. This makes it an ideal compact single focal-length lens of a very versatile, multi-purpose angle of view for a walk-around lens. Being just a single focal length, there's much it cannot do, but it can cover many situations. Working with just one focal length, and being thus restricted, is good for learning how to make best use of that focal length, and what its properties are.

In the old days, a 35mm film SLR camera body often came bundled with a 50mm f/1.8 or so lens, being considered having a near-normal perspective (front-to-back relationship of near-to-far objects in scenes viewed from a not-close foreground). On your modern APS-C sensor-size DSLR, the equivalent would be a 35mm lens. But a slightly more wide-angle field of view (FOV) would be more versatile, being applicable to more scenarios, and more opportunities for photographic interest.

As to the "scene" modes, Pentax does list this as a feature for the model, but does not spend money advertising it, because it is a common feature found in most entry-level DSLR cameras of most any brand. It is a feature that has been around for numerous years, and many previous models. If you find this to be a useful feature, then great that it is serving your needs well!

Many of us have been into photography since long before this feature existed. Some, like myself, since before there was auto-anything. No auto focus, auto "P" "Av" "Tv" etc. etc. Just a meter to read in the viewfinder (VF) and set your own shutter speed and aperture manually. So you had to learn the best setting to get the results you want, when facing one type of scene or another, and the lighting present at the time. "M" was the only ballgame in town.

As Big Mack, UncleVanya, and others have said, look upon the "scene" modes as a convenience but also a learning tool, and keep in mind that the convenience of automation carries with it a degree of less than optimum reliability or accuracy. So use it as just one learning tool. I currently shoot with 3 camera bodies, 2 of which are pro-oriented models having no "scene" modes, but one is the preceding model of the K-70, the K-S2, which has a very similar design, including the "scene" modes, which I never bother with. This is because I already know in advance what settings I will use in each of those "scenes", and often quicker and better than the automation.

There's nothing wrong with using this convenience, but one reason for owning a camera so capable as the K-70 instead of a point-and-shoot cam, is the ability of the photographer to take control. Avoid shooting with your mode dial set to the auto "green" mode. And reserve use of the "scene" modes for tricky specific "scenes" of extreme lighting situations. Instead, for fully automated exposure settings of aperture and shutter speed, use the "P" mode. It is just as automated, but will allow you access to controls to make adjustments on your own. In fact, one feature that is exclusively Pentax is the Pentax Hyper System. In the "P" mode, if the photographer, noting the info displayed in the VF or back LCD screen, decides on a different aperture or shutter speed than that the camera has chosen, can instantly change either on the fly simply by doing so using the thumb or finger e-dials to the extent that lighting will permit, instead of having to change the mode dial first to Av or to Tv. First click freezes current value, next click changes. A hit on the green button will restore full "P" operation.

In the "M" Manual mode, the green button can be used to instantly set a "correct" metered exposure of both shutter speed and aperture without having to twirl the thumb and finger e-dials until the meter indicates "correct" exposure settings. A real time saver. If wanting a different aperture or shutter speed, go from there. Both "Hyper Manual" and "Hyper Program" are exclusive Pentax features that could indeed be better presented by Pentax.

Also, go into the Custom Image menu ( having the mode dial on "P") and set "Fine Sharpening" in both the standard "Bright" and also the "Natural" categories. Then set the camera back to the "Bright" setting, which is best for most shooting needs. This will provide superior detail in your images.

You can access these and other menus quickly via the "info" button. Then the 4 buttons surrounding the "ok" button will serve for navigation, adjustments and settings.

Last edited by mikesbike; 08-06-2018 at 10:56 AM.

**BigMackCam** · 08-05-2018, 01:20 PM

^^^ Excellent post and advice, Mike. Very clear and well-explained

Qman · 08-05-2018, 01:28 PM - **2 Likes**

Your other option is the DA 14mm f2.8. Faster and wider than the 15mm, smaller than the 12-24, it has great colors and contrast. It also focuses very close and has good bokeh and is decent for astro. Available new or you can find a good deal used.

Adam · 08-05-2018, 02:35 PM

Originally posted by midnightvisions

There is the DA 15mm F4 which is many years old and no longer made, although I see a few old stock in B&H and Adorama, and used on ebay. The DA21mm is in the same boat.

They are both current and still in production (in black and silver):

Pentax SMCP-DA 15mm F/4 ED AL HD Lens f/DSLR Cameras, Black 21470
Pentax HD Pentax DA 15mm f/4 ED AL Limited Lens (Silver) 21480

Pentax HD Pentax DA 21mm f/3.2 AL Limited Lens (Black) 21410 B&H
Amazon : PENTAX Limited lens-thin wide-angle single focus lens HD PENTAX-DA21mmF3.2AL Limited Silver K mount APS-C size 21420 : Lcd Projector Supplies : Camera & Photo

The 15mm in particular is a lens I'd highly recommend. Truly hard to go wrong with it IMO!

Adam
PentaxForums.com Webmaster (Site Usage Guide | Site Help | My Photography)

PentaxForums.com server and development costs are user-supported. You can help cover these costs by donating or purchasing one of our Pentax eBooks. Or, buy your photo gear from our affiliates, Adorama, B&H Photo, KEH, or Topaz Labs, and get FREE Marketplace access - click here to see how! Trusted Pentax retailers:

tvdtvdtvd · 08-05-2018, 04:00 PM - **2 Likes**

Originally posted by normhead

There will be a $1200 Ultra Wide Angle with he same type spec as the new DFA* 50 1.4. coming in (2019 or later).

I certainly hope not. Indeed, I believe you are combining two separate items on the roadmap:
Large Aperture Wide-Angle Single Focus Lens (2019 or later)
Ultra Wide-Angle Single Focus Lens (2019 or later)

I expect that first item, the Large Aperture WA, to be designed like the DFA* 50/1.4. I very much hope the UWA
will be of a more sensible and practical design, and trust the lack of any superlatives, (large aperture or star designation),
to be an indication it will not be another exercise in hyper-correction.

Ricoh, please make that UWA an updated 20/4, modeled as closely as possible on the M-series lens, with no more
and no less of the modern amenities than needed, (coating & AF....., and that's it).

pakinjapan · 08-05-2018, 04:20 PM - **3 Likes**

Originally posted by midnightvisions

I was looking for a wide angle lens, and I have the 10-17mm fisheye, but I'm tired of the fisheye effect.
There is the DA 15mm F4 which is many years old and no longer made, although I see a few old stock in B&H and Adorama, and used on ebay. The DA21mm is in the same boat.

As many has mentioned, the 21 and 15 are still in production. I mean the HD (red ring) version is still in production. The older Green ring version, I guess them not making it anymore? However, for 15 and 21, I prefer the older green ring version. Do not overlook them just because they were released a few years back. They are still among one of the best across all brands... well..., may be it is too much to say "all brand"! but from what I has been shooting with people using various camera brand, my 15 and 21 still kick butt anytime I use them.

21 green ring's samples

.
15 green ring's samples

MrMojo · 08-05-2018, 05:09 PM - **1 Like**

DA 21mm is a fantastic lens, even the "old" SMC version which I have. The Sigma 10-20mm lenses are also a good bet for low distortion and wide angle (in my very humble opinion).
A shot from both taken today to show you the relative FOV of both, the Sigma is at 10mm. As others have said the 21mm is not particularly "wide" in comparison to the 10-20mm range lenses, but image quality is very impressive.

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

View Picture EXIF

**david94903** · 08-05-2018, 09:22 PM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by tvdtvdtvd

Ricoh, please make that UWA an updated 20/4, modeled as closely as possible on the M-series lens, with no moreand no less of the modern amenities than needed, (coating & AF....., and that's it).

Here! Here! I second this motion

**mikesbike** · 08-05-2018, 10:30 PM - **2 Likes**

Originally posted by BigMackCam

^^^ Excellent post and advice, Mike. Very clear and well-explained

Thanks, Mike. I try to cover all the bases I can that will be helpful.

The op was more right than he knows about the shortcomings of Pentax in their advertising and marketing. It was simply misplaced. I'm sure many people who buy a K-70 do not realize that they are holding a very capable and remarkably advanced instrument in their hands. Further examples are the 2 e-dials, WR construction, and a pro-style glass prism VF with 100% frame coverage, none of which are found at that price point in other brands, and all of which are only found in their much more costly models, not to mention an advanced feature like pixel shift resolution. This is also why many of us who shoot with the high-end pro-style models, might also pick up a K-70 or K-S2 as a secondary body and feel good about doing so.

Other brands excell in the video department, and in AF tracking of fast-moving subjects across the frame when shooting in AF-C mode.

I don't think it is a bad thing to start out using single FL prime lenses instead of a zoom lens, since that is how it has turned out so far, except for the fisheye zoom lens. This can have some very good learning benefits!

normhead · 08-06-2018, 05:34 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by pepperberry farm

the DA 10-17mm isn't so fishy above 14mm... plus you can control how much of the distortion is showing by how you use the lens...

If you set up so you have some straight lines somewhere in the image buy paying attention to where they are located on the frame you can produce a normal appearing image in many circumstances. And sometime you get contours you can't make look acceptable to the eye using a corrected lens.

normhead · 08-06-2018, 05:34 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by pepperberry farm

the DA 10-17mm isn't so fishy above 14mm... plus you can control how much of the distortion is showing by how you use the lens...

If you set up so you have some straight lines somewhere in the image buy paying attention to where they are located on the frame you can produce a normal appearing image in many circumstances. And sometime you get contours you can't make look acceptable to the eye using a corrected lens, but you can with a fisheye.

**kcjonez** · 08-06-2018, 05:50 AM - **1 Like**

I'm also a big fan of the Da 15mm mv. I picked one up on fleabay almost mint for under $200usd. It is a very versatile lens.
This is a close focus shot with it.

midnightvisions · 08-06-2018, 11:33 AM - **3 Likes**

Thank you all for your advice, suggestions and opinions.
To answer some questions,
The reason why I like the SCENE functions is because I'm mot good enough to create the pictures I want using the other manual setting on the camera. When I see something I want a picture of, its now or never and I generally have not had the time to sit down, or go back to school on how to take pictures the old fashioned way, no offense intended. The SCENE functions are that intermediate step I need and (my opinion is) its what many other amateur photographers, or vacation only photographers need.
I did pick up the 18 to 135 lens with the body, but I found the SCENE functions takes better pictures indoors and low lighting with the non-zoom lenses so I was looking for feedback on those lenses.
I did get lucky with this shot of a water bomber from my 50-300 on a local fire nearby last week.

Again thanks for your help!

**mikesbike** · 08-07-2018, 01:13 AM - **2 Likes**

Glad to learn that you do have the fine and versatile DA 18-135mm lens, as well as the exceptionally good DA 55-300mm f/4-5.8 telephoto zoom lens.

As we said, no reason not to use the SCENE modes, since you find this a helpful tool. In your example here, evidently you knew you would be dealing with fast action, so you used a fast action SCENE mode. Makes sense, and your outcome was a good one. What we're also saying is since you have such an advanced camera, it will pay you down the road to explore its capabilities and learn more about what you can do with it in addition to or other than the SCENE modes. I never took a class in photography. I learned by doing just that- exploring and finding out by doing. Trying out my camera's controls to see what I can do with them. Also asking questions. This forum is good for that. With digital it is easy to explore by doing, because unlike film there is no expense or waiting time to do so.

Your photo here turned out very well. The automation did a creditable job. So you learn by asking how did the SCENE mode accomplish this and how could I do the same, or do it even better, without having to take time to turn on this mode? Learning is a slow process. You have this fine instrument, and finding out what these controls can do is fun and a revelation. So what have you learned from it here? What did the SCENE mode do to get this good result? How could it be better? How about the same clear picture but having the propeller turning much faster? You know, you can control that! (hint-think shutter speed).

Just keep using your SCENE modes for grab shots like this when faced with challenging situations like this fast action event. Then analyze what happened. Of course your non-zoom lenses are better for low light use, because they have bigger apertures, so the apertures can open up more to let in more light. It's always good to know why so you can apply this knowledge for your various purposes. When talking about apertures, a smaller number means a larger aperture. A lens with a large aperture is called a "fast' lens, because by letting in more light it can also provide a faster shutter speed at the same ISO setting and in the same lighting. If the shutter speed is too slow because of low lighting, your photos may come out blurred or less clear due to the slight movement of your body or that of a live subject. So using a "fast" lens and having a faster shutter speed in lower light is a good thing, otherwise you need to use a flash. When more light is let in, the shutter speed must be set higher to compensate (the faster shutter then lets in less light) in order to get proper exposure. In better lighting this can also freeze fast action, the degree of which depends on how fast is the shutter speed selected and how fast is the action.

Zoom lenses cannot be made with apertures as large as those of non-zoom lenses can be. The f/2.4 of your 35mm lens is a very big maximum aperture, and the f/1.8 of your 50mm lens is even bigger. By controlling aperture, you not only address the lighting situation, you can also control how much or how little of your background is either blurred to make your subject stand out more from it, or to what degree it is also sharp. (depth of field- DOF)

The maximum aperture of your DA 18-135mm is f/3.5-5.6, depending on the zoom setting. There are faster zoom lenses that cost far more, say f/2.8 through a zoom range of only 17-50mm. But you can always find a non-zoom lens (prime lens) that will be faster, and often at far less cost.

There's a lot to learn, just have patience and enjoy the experience of your own accomplishments to come!

Just keep an inquiring mind, that is all. You have the equipment to do many things, and to get better at doing them. Learning is a lifelong experience. We are all still learning, including from each other. It's just about shooting pictures and finding out. Ask questions whenever you want- we will help, and we don't charge anything for it! If there is anything at all that I have said that you don't completely understand, just ask. We won't think it is a stupid question. We've all been there before.

**Scorpio71GR** · 08-07-2018, 02:19 PM - **1 Like**

To replace the 10-17 you have several options. The Sigma 8-16, Pentax 12-24, Sigma 12-24, Tamron 12-24, and the Sigma 10-20 (two versions). You can find reviews and comparisons here DA 12-24mm vs Sigma and Tamron 10-24mm Comparison Review - Introduction | PentaxForums.com Reviews and here Sigma 10-20mm F3.5 vs F4.0-5.6 Review - Introduction | PentaxForums.com Reviews .

The Sigma 8-16 will get you shots no other lens can. It however is very unforgiving of poor composition, especially below 10mm. Also no pentax body will read a focal length below 10mm. The Sigma 12-24 does very well on ASP-C bodies since it covers the full frame image circle. I find it delivers less distortion than my 8-16. However the 8-16 is more compact and has silent focus, so I usually end up with that. Like the 10-17, the 8-16 has no provision for filters on the front. There is a slot on the rear element for gel filters. I have never owned the Pentax 12-24 but it is a very highly regarded lens. I sold my Sigma 10-20 when I purchased my 8-16. The Sigma 10-20 is definitely worth considering. Member Kengoh uses one on his K-1 and just amazes me with his images. The 10-20 has two versions, one with screwdrive and a 77mm filter and the other with an in lens motor and 82mm filter.

All of the DA Limiteds are still in production. The have been upgraded to HD versions with newer coatings and rounded apeture blades. The SMC versions were discontinued. All my versions are the SMC versions. The DA 15 is the only Limited that is an ultra wide angle. It offers unparalleled flare resistance. The DA 15 is one of the few lenses I can just point directly at the sun and not worry. The DA21 has better borders but there is a huge difference between 15mm and 21mm on ASP-C. I will admit I use the 21 more than the 15 but there are times when the 15 is the only lens that will get the shot. There also is the DA 14 2.8. This is an often overlooked lens. I never owned one but I know others who love it. It is fairly large with a 77mm front element. The DA 14 is also still in production.

08-05-2018, 04:20 PM - 3 Likes	#21
pakinjapan Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Tokyo Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,041	Originally posted by midnightvisions I was looking for a wide angle lens, and I have the 10-17mm fisheye, but I'm tired of the fisheye effect. There is the DA 15mm F4 which is many years old and no longer made, although I see a few old stock in B&H and Adorama, and used on ebay. The DA21mm is in the same boat. As many has mentioned, the 21 and 15 are still in production. I mean the HD (red ring) version is still in production. The older Green ring version, I guess them not making it anymore? However, for 15 and 21, I prefer the older green ring version. Do not overlook them just because they were released a few years back. They are still among one of the best across all brands... well..., may be it is too much to say "all brand"! but from what I has been shooting with people using various camera brand, my 15 and 21 still kick butt anytime I use them. 21 green ring's samples . 15 green ring's samples Last edited by pakinjapan; 08-05-2018 at 04:25 PM.

08-06-2018, 05:34 AM - 1 Like	#26
normhead Pentaxian Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Near Algonquin Park Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 40,451	Originally posted by pepperberry farm the DA 10-17mm isn't so fishy above 14mm... plus you can control how much of the distortion is showing by how you use the lens... If you set up so you have some straight lines somewhere in the image buy paying attention to where they are located on the frame you can produce a normal appearing image in many circumstances. And sometime you get contours you can't make look acceptable to the eye using a corrected lens, but you can with a fisheye. Last edited by normhead; 08-06-2018 at 05:42 AM.

08-07-2018, 01:13 AM - 2 Likes	#29
mikesbike Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Southeastern Michigan Posts: 4,549	Glad to learn that you do have the fine and versatile DA 18-135mm lens, as well as the exceptionally good DA 55-300mm f/4-5.8 telephoto zoom lens. As we said, no reason not to use the SCENE modes, since you find this a helpful tool. In your example here, evidently you knew you would be dealing with fast action, so you used a fast action SCENE mode. Makes sense, and your outcome was a good one. What we're also saying is since you have such an advanced camera, it will pay you down the road to explore its capabilities and learn more about what you can do with it in addition to or other than the SCENE modes. I never took a class in photography. I learned by doing just that- exploring and finding out by doing. Trying out my camera's controls to see what I can do with them. Also asking questions. This forum is good for that. With digital it is easy to explore by doing, because unlike film there is no expense or waiting time to do so. Your photo here turned out very well. The automation did a creditable job. So you learn by asking how did the SCENE mode accomplish this and how could I do the same, or do it even better, without having to take time to turn on this mode? Learning is a slow process. You have this fine instrument, and finding out what these controls can do is fun and a revelation. So what have you learned from it here? What did the SCENE mode do to get this good result? How could it be better? How about the same clear picture but having the propeller turning much faster? You know, you can control that! (hint-think shutter speed). Just keep using your SCENE modes for grab shots like this when faced with challenging situations like this fast action event. Then analyze what happened. Of course your non-zoom lenses are better for low light use, because they have bigger apertures, so the apertures can open up more to let in more light. It's always good to know why so you can apply this knowledge for your various purposes. When talking about apertures, a smaller number means a larger aperture. A lens with a large aperture is called a "fast' lens, because by letting in more light it can also provide a faster shutter speed at the same ISO setting and in the same lighting. If the shutter speed is too slow because of low lighting, your photos may come out blurred or less clear due to the slight movement of your body or that of a live subject. So using a "fast" lens and having a faster shutter speed in lower light is a good thing, otherwise you need to use a flash. When more light is let in, the shutter speed must be set higher to compensate (the faster shutter then lets in less light) in order to get proper exposure. In better lighting this can also freeze fast action, the degree of which depends on how fast is the shutter speed selected and how fast is the action. Zoom lenses cannot be made with apertures as large as those of non-zoom lenses can be. The f/2.4 of your 35mm lens is a very big maximum aperture, and the f/1.8 of your 50mm lens is even bigger. By controlling aperture, you not only address the lighting situation, you can also control how much or how little of your background is either blurred to make your subject stand out more from it, or to what degree it is also sharp. (depth of field- DOF) The maximum aperture of your DA 18-135mm is f/3.5-5.6, depending on the zoom setting. There are faster zoom lenses that cost far more, say f/2.8 through a zoom range of only 17-50mm. But you can always find a non-zoom lens (prime lens) that will be faster, and often at far less cost. There's a lot to learn, just have patience and enjoy the experience of your own accomplishments to come! Just keep an inquiring mind, that is all. You have the equipment to do many things, and to get better at doing them. Learning is a lifelong experience. We are all still learning, including from each other. It's just about shooting pictures and finding out. Ask questions whenever you want- we will help, and we don't charge anything for it! If there is anything at all that I have said that you don't completely understand, just ask. We won't think it is a stupid question. We've all been there before. Last edited by mikesbike; 08-07-2018 at 01:53 AM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
New to M42 Lenses - Lens Condition Question	Matt_Dodwell_UK	Pentax SLR Lens Discussion	28	02-01-2018 07:06 AM
Stupid Question - How do I enable MANUAL LENSES on my new K-1?	PentaxForums-User	Troubleshooting and Beginner Help	5	02-04-2017 05:51 AM
Question on Sigma USB Dock for new Sigma Contemporary Lenses	DHA	Troubleshooting and Beginner Help	8	12-14-2015 08:06 PM
New lens for Kx & New to new Lenses :)	matt21484	Pentax SLR Lens Discussion	13	10-11-2011 09:26 PM
To change lenses or not to change lenses. That is the question.	atyab	Photographic Technique	28	11-24-2008 09:27 AM

08-05-2018, 12:59 PM - 3 Likes	#16
mikesbike Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Southeastern Michigan Posts: 4,549	Welcome to the forum. If you are in the US, I am rather surprised you did not find and consider the DA 18-135mm zoom lens, which is often bundled with the K-70 as a kit at a good savings. The 35mm and 50mm lenses you have are good lenses, however. The advantage of the Pentax DA 15mm f/4 Limited is its incredibly small size, in addition to its excellent imaging quality. I carry my camera in a belt/shoulder-strap holster-type case, and the little 15mm LTD WA lens goes easily into the case's front accessory pocket! I just put a patch of bubble wrap in the front for extra protection. As an alternative, when desiring more range and flexible framing, the very fine DA 12-24mm f/4 is an excellent lens- highly recommended. The DA 21mm Limited is wide angle also, but far less so than the 15mm lens. This makes it an ideal compact single focal-length lens of a very versatile, multi-purpose angle of view for a walk-around lens. Being just a single focal length, there's much it cannot do, but it can cover many situations. Working with just one focal length, and being thus restricted, is good for learning how to make best use of that focal length, and what its properties are. In the old days, a 35mm film SLR camera body often came bundled with a 50mm f/1.8 or so lens, being considered having a near-normal perspective (front-to-back relationship of near-to-far objects in scenes viewed from a not-close foreground). On your modern APS-C sensor-size DSLR, the equivalent would be a 35mm lens. But a slightly more wide-angle field of view (FOV) would be more versatile, being applicable to more scenarios, and more opportunities for photographic interest. As to the "scene" modes, Pentax does list this as a feature for the model, but does not spend money advertising it, because it is a common feature found in most entry-level DSLR cameras of most any brand. It is a feature that has been around for numerous years, and many previous models. If you find this to be a useful feature, then great that it is serving your needs well! Many of us have been into photography since long before this feature existed. Some, like myself, since before there was auto-anything. No auto focus, auto "P" "Av" "Tv" etc. etc. Just a meter to read in the viewfinder (VF) and set your own shutter speed and aperture manually. So you had to learn the best setting to get the results you want, when facing one type of scene or another, and the lighting present at the time. "M" was the only ballgame in town. As Big Mack, UncleVanya, and others have said, look upon the "scene" modes as a convenience but also a learning tool, and keep in mind that the convenience of automation carries with it a degree of less than optimum reliability or accuracy. So use it as just one learning tool. I currently shoot with 3 camera bodies, 2 of which are pro-oriented models having no "scene" modes, but one is the preceding model of the K-70, the K-S2, which has a very similar design, including the "scene" modes, which I never bother with. This is because I already know in advance what settings I will use in each of those "scenes", and often quicker and better than the automation. There's nothing wrong with using this convenience, but one reason for owning a camera so capable as the K-70 instead of a point-and-shoot cam, is the ability of the photographer to take control. Avoid shooting with your mode dial set to the auto "green" mode. And reserve use of the "scene" modes for tricky specific "scenes" of extreme lighting situations. Instead, for fully automated exposure settings of aperture and shutter speed, use the "P" mode. It is just as automated, but will allow you access to controls to make adjustments on your own. In fact, one feature that is exclusively Pentax is the Pentax Hyper System. In the "P" mode, if the photographer, noting the info displayed in the VF or back LCD screen, decides on a different aperture or shutter speed than that the camera has chosen, can instantly change either on the fly simply by doing so using the thumb or finger e-dials to the extent that lighting will permit, instead of having to change the mode dial first to Av or to Tv. First click freezes current value, next click changes. A hit on the green button will restore full "P" operation. In the "M" Manual mode, the green button can be used to instantly set a "correct" metered exposure of both shutter speed and aperture without having to twirl the thumb and finger e-dials until the meter indicates "correct" exposure settings. A real time saver. If wanting a different aperture or shutter speed, go from there. Both "Hyper Manual" and "Hyper Program" are exclusive Pentax features that could indeed be better presented by Pentax. Also, go into the Custom Image menu ( having the mode dial on "P") and set "Fine Sharpening" in both the standard "Bright" and also the "Natural" categories. Then set the camera back to the "Bright" setting, which is best for most shooting needs. This will provide superior detail in your images. You can access these and other menus quickly via the "info" button. Then the 4 buttons surrounding the "ok" button will serve for navigation, adjustments and settings. Last edited by mikesbike; 08-06-2018 at 10:56 AM.

08-05-2018, 01:20 PM	#17
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,674	^^^ Excellent post and advice, Mike. Very clear and well-explained

08-05-2018, 01:28 PM - 2 Likes	#18
Qman Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Posts: 232	Your other option is the DA 14mm f2.8. Faster and wider than the 15mm, smaller than the 12-24, it has great colors and contrast. It also focuses very close and has good bokeh and is decent for astro. Available new or you can find a good deal used.

08-05-2018, 02:35 PM	#19
Adam Administrator Site Webmaster Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Arizona Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 51,595	Originally posted by midnightvisions There is the DA 15mm F4 which is many years old and no longer made, although I see a few old stock in B&H and Adorama, and used on ebay. The DA21mm is in the same boat. They are both current and still in production (in black and silver): Pentax SMCP-DA 15mm F/4 ED AL HD Lens f/DSLR Cameras, Black 21470 Pentax HD Pentax DA 15mm f/4 ED AL Limited Lens (Silver) 21480 Pentax HD Pentax DA 21mm f/3.2 AL Limited Lens (Black) 21410 B&H Amazon : PENTAX Limited lens-thin wide-angle single focus lens HD PENTAX-DA21mmF3.2AL Limited Silver K mount APS-C size 21420 : Lcd Projector Supplies : Camera & Photo The 15mm in particular is a lens I'd highly recommend. Truly hard to go wrong with it IMO! Adam PentaxForums.com Webmaster (Site Usage Guide \| Site Help \| My Photography) PentaxForums.com server and development costs are user-supported. You can help cover these costs by donating or purchasing one of our Pentax eBooks. Or, buy your photo gear from our affiliates, Adorama, B&H Photo, KEH, or Topaz Labs, and get FREE Marketplace access - click here to see how! Trusted Pentax retailers:

08-05-2018, 04:00 PM - 2 Likes	#20
tvdtvdtvd Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Posts: 1,665	Originally posted by normhead There will be a $1200 Ultra Wide Angle with he same type spec as the new DFA* 50 1.4. coming in (2019 or later). I certainly hope not. Indeed, I believe you are combining two separate items on the roadmap: Large Aperture Wide-Angle Single Focus Lens (2019 or later) Ultra Wide-Angle Single Focus Lens (2019 or later) I expect that first item, the Large Aperture WA, to be designed like the DFA* 50/1.4. I very much hope the UWA will be of a more sensible and practical design, and trust the lack of any superlatives, (large aperture or star designation), to be an indication it will not be another exercise in hyper-correction. Ricoh, please make that UWA an updated 20/4, modeled as closely as possible on the M-series lens, with no more and no less of the modern amenities than needed, (coating & AF....., and that's it).

08-05-2018, 09:22 PM - 1 Like	#23
david94903 Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: San Rafael, CA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 806	Originally posted by tvdtvdtvd Ricoh, please make that UWA an updated 20/4, modeled as closely as possible on the M-series lens, with no moreand no less of the modern amenities than needed, (coating & AF....., and that's it). Here! Here! I second this motion

08-05-2018, 10:30 PM - 2 Likes	#24
mikesbike Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Southeastern Michigan Posts: 4,549	Originally posted by BigMackCam ^^^ Excellent post and advice, Mike. Very clear and well-explained Thanks, Mike. I try to cover all the bases I can that will be helpful. The op was more right than he knows about the shortcomings of Pentax in their advertising and marketing. It was simply misplaced. I'm sure many people who buy a K-70 do not realize that they are holding a very capable and remarkably advanced instrument in their hands. Further examples are the 2 e-dials, WR construction, and a pro-style glass prism VF with 100% frame coverage, none of which are found at that price point in other brands, and all of which are only found in their much more costly models, not to mention an advanced feature like pixel shift resolution. This is also why many of us who shoot with the high-end pro-style models, might also pick up a K-70 or K-S2 as a secondary body and feel good about doing so. Other brands excell in the video department, and in AF tracking of fast-moving subjects across the frame when shooting in AF-C mode. I don't think it is a bad thing to start out using single FL prime lenses instead of a zoom lens, since that is how it has turned out so far, except for the fisheye zoom lens. This can have some very good learning benefits!

08-06-2018, 05:34 AM - 1 Like	#25
normhead Pentaxian Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Near Algonquin Park Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 40,451	Originally posted by pepperberry farm the DA 10-17mm isn't so fishy above 14mm... plus you can control how much of the distortion is showing by how you use the lens... If you set up so you have some straight lines somewhere in the image buy paying attention to where they are located on the frame you can produce a normal appearing image in many circumstances. And sometime you get contours you can't make look acceptable to the eye using a corrected lens.

08-07-2018, 02:19 PM - 1 Like	#30
Scorpio71GR Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Michigan Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,005	To replace the 10-17 you have several options. The Sigma 8-16, Pentax 12-24, Sigma 12-24, Tamron 12-24, and the Sigma 10-20 (two versions). You can find reviews and comparisons here DA 12-24mm vs Sigma and Tamron 10-24mm Comparison Review - Introduction \| PentaxForums.com Reviews and here Sigma 10-20mm F3.5 vs F4.0-5.6 Review - Introduction \| PentaxForums.com Reviews . The Sigma 8-16 will get you shots no other lens can. It however is very unforgiving of poor composition, especially below 10mm. Also no pentax body will read a focal length below 10mm. The Sigma 12-24 does very well on ASP-C bodies since it covers the full frame image circle. I find it delivers less distortion than my 8-16. However the 8-16 is more compact and has silent focus, so I usually end up with that. Like the 10-17, the 8-16 has no provision for filters on the front. There is a slot on the rear element for gel filters. I have never owned the Pentax 12-24 but it is a very highly regarded lens. I sold my Sigma 10-20 when I purchased my 8-16. The Sigma 10-20 is definitely worth considering. Member Kengoh uses one on his K-1 and just amazes me with his images. The 10-20 has two versions, one with screwdrive and a 77mm filter and the other with an in lens motor and 82mm filter. All of the DA Limiteds are still in production. The have been upgraded to HD versions with newer coatings and rounded apeture blades. The SMC versions were discontinued. All my versions are the SMC versions. The DA 15 is the only Limited that is an ultra wide angle. It offers unparalleled flare resistance. The DA 15 is one of the few lenses I can just point directly at the sun and not worry. The DA21 has better borders but there is a huge difference between 15mm and 21mm on ASP-C. I will admit I use the 21 more than the 15 but there are times when the 15 is the only lens that will get the shot. There also is the DA 14 2.8. This is an often overlooked lens. I never owned one but I know others who love it. It is fairly large with a 77mm front element. The DA 14 is also still in production.