Originally posted by pepperberry farm
(goes searching for another hidden gem by Komine)
Komine lenses might see little celebration on the Web, but I've been told that both macros (yours and the 90mm) are great lenses: sharp, 1:1 reproduction ratio, and good, solid build.
Probably the only hyped Komine-made lens is the 3rd version of the Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm, also available in PKA mount. It's believed to be the best of the four generations of the Series 1 zoom.
I remember there is a page dedicated to the Series 1 70-210 zooms. Quite instructive.
Talking about MF zooms... I've seen a few of them chosen as personal favourites.
I tend to shoot with primes, and if I need a zoom it's often in one of those occasions when AF is very welcomed
So I only chose one MF zoom, and only because it's such a wonderful, specialistic photographic tool.
While it's a common belief that seventies/eighties MF zooms lag behind newer projects, I found that it's not always true.
Apart from some of the Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm zooms, which I never tried, there are others that still do pretty well, even by todays's standards.
Some are quite old, like the Vivitar Series 1 Flat Field 4.5/90-180mm (Kino-made). It's still impressive at close range.
The macro setting of most old zooms is kind of a joke, though a couple of Tamron SP optics did a good job letting you take close-up pictures with good sharpness (for example the 60-300mm goes down to 1:1.55 at 60mm, and the old 70-210mm reaches 1:2 at the long end).
Here is some lens p0rrn of MF zooms I 'treasure' (xposted from other thread):
---------- Post added 22-09-18 at 12:30 PM ----------
Originally posted by boriscleto I have one of the 28/2s. I've never been able to use it on a DSLR because it has the long aperture shield and one of the screws is stripped... Actually the 28 is a Kiron...
Most (all?) Kiron/Kino lenses have the diaphragm lever guard that protrudes too much, interfering with the two power contacts inside the PKAF mount.
Protect the back optic with some paper/tape and file down 2 or 3mm, then use a black marker to blacken the exposed aluminium.
I had it done professionally with a burr, then I decided to take care of the problem by myself. With a small file it's quick and quite easy