Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
10-03-2018, 06:39 PM   #1
Forum Member
scottab's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2012
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 76
Looking for the manual, SMC Pentax 28mm F3.5 Shift

Just picked up a near mint copy.
I have been searching here and the rest of the net for the manual for this lens.
I will be able to figure out this lens, but a manual would be nice to have access to.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Scott.

10-03-2018, 06:42 PM - 3 Likes   #2
Forum Member
scottab's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2012
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 76
Original Poster
The new lens

Two shots of the new lens on my K1.
Attached Images
   
10-03-2018, 06:58 PM - 1 Like   #3
Pentaxian
photoptimist's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2016
Photos: Albums
Posts: 5,104
This lens is a blast!

I've had one of these lenses for a number of years, using it first on the K10D, then the K-5, and now the K-1.

On the K-1, I'm happy with the overall result although the CA in the shifted corners is worse than the K5 (as expected).

A polarizing filter (the 28S has 77mm threads in it's built-in hood) does vignette on the K1 at >10mm landscape shift and >7 mm portrait shift. There's no problem with physical clearance between the lens and K1 body so one can shift in any direction.

The trick with OVF metering the 28S is that it has to be unshifted to meter properly due to limitations in the design of OVF focus screens. OVF issues also imply that composing on a heavily-shifted setting often requires the aperture to be fully open.

My workflow with the 28S is usually:
1. Unshift, open the aperture, compose the frame, close the aperture, green button meter (I may take a test shot and chimp the histogram).
2. Open the aperture, shift, recompose, close the aperture, shoot.

Although it feels like a lot of steps, it goes very quickly once you've done it a few times. The two-ring design of the aperture controls makes it easy to set the desired shooting aperture with one ring and then quick-slide the working aperture between full-open and chosen-setting for the various metering and recomposition steps.

P.S. I'm surprised more portrait and street photographers don't use shift lenses for full-length portraits. Using a regular lens and angling the camera downward to get head-to-toe filling the frame results in a weird keystoning effect that makes the subject's head and shoulders too large and their legs too small. With a shift lens, one can hold the camera level (and at eye level) and then shift the frame to get head-to-toe.

A couple of threads that might interest you are:
A Bit Of A Shift On The K1 - PentaxForums.com
How many tilt shift lenses are available? - PentaxForums.com
10-03-2018, 07:12 PM - 1 Like   #4
Pentaxian
photoptimist's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2016
Photos: Albums
Posts: 5,104
Oh, and another tip for shifting to eliminate keystoning:

Use the K-1's electronic level to level the camera and lock it down. Then adjust the vertical composition by shifting the lens.

10-03-2018, 09:11 PM - 1 Like   #5
Loyal Site Supporter
Loyal Site Supporter




Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tumbleweed, Arizona
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 5,687
Here is the manual. It looks brand spanking new!It's a fun lens to use. You can shoot "around the clock" essentially at each clock point, stitch and you will have a 645 sized image that you can crop any number of ways.

10-03-2018, 09:26 PM - 1 Like   #6
Moderator
Not a Number's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Venice, CA
Posts: 10,503
You can find many of the legacy glass manuals and other accessories (bellows, tubes, reverse adapters) on the Ricoh Canada site:

https://ricoh-imaging.ca/en/support/download-manuals

Which is were the above site got it from in the first place.
10-04-2018, 07:05 AM   #7
Veteran Member




Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Medellín
Posts: 1,322
Congrats. Nice setup. Try to get a macro rail to shift the camera as much as you shift the lens to avoid change in perspective. It will make stitching a lot easier. A tripod mount would solve it too, but I've never seen or read about one for this lens. And since it rotates, it would have to affix on the very narrow area around the mount.
Another thing you can do is to make distortion tests (brick walls, buildings with straight lines that fill the frame, etc. at close distance and infinity) with lens straight on and shifted, noting the amount of shift on each frame, then augmenting the canvas size in an editor and correct for distortion. Note the amount of correction for infinity, 10m and 1m. After that, you can correct each frame before stitching from now on and have better, smoother panoramas.
I think this is a subject we could expand on the forum and write an article and review on.



10-04-2018, 05:48 PM   #8
Forum Member
scottab's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2012
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 76
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by photoptimist Quote
This lens is a blast!

I've had one of these lenses for a number of years, using it first on the K10D, then the K-5, and now the K-1.

On the K-1, I'm happy with the overall result although the CA in the shifted corners is worse than the K5 (as expected).

A polarizing filter (the 28S has 77mm threads in it's built-in hood) does vignette on the K1 at >10mm landscape shift and >7 mm portrait shift. There's no problem with physical clearance between the lens and K1 body so one can shift in any direction.

The trick with OVF metering the 28S is that it has to be unshifted to meter properly due to limitations in the design of OVF focus screens. OVF issues also imply that composing on a heavily-shifted setting often requires the aperture to be fully open.

My workflow with the 28S is usually:
1. Unshift, open the aperture, compose the frame, close the aperture, green button meter (I may take a test shot and chimp the histogram).
2. Open the aperture, shift, recompose, close the aperture, shoot.

Although it feels like a lot of steps, it goes very quickly once you've done it a few times. The two-ring design of the aperture controls makes it easy to set the desired shooting aperture with one ring and then quick-slide the working aperture between full-open and chosen-setting for the various metering and recomposition steps.

P.S. I'm surprised more portrait and street photographers don't use shift lenses for full-length portraits. Using a regular lens and angling the camera downward to get head-to-toe filling the frame results in a weird keystoning effect that makes the subject's head and shoulders too large and their legs too small. With a shift lens, one can hold the camera level (and at eye level) and then shift the frame to get head-to-toe.

A couple of threads that might interest you are:
A Bit Of A Shift On The K1 - PentaxForums.com
How many tilt shift lenses are available? - PentaxForums.com
photoptimist,
Thank you for the helpful information. I had a chance to play with it after work today, a few horizontal panoramas.
Hoping for better light next week. I had no idea that it had filter threads, a big plus.

---------- Post added 10-04-18 at 07:50 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by interested_observer Quote
Here is the manual. It looks brand spanking new!It's a fun lens to use. You can shoot "around the clock" essentially at each clock point, stitch and you will have a 645 sized image that you can crop any number of ways.

interested_observer,
thank you for the link to the manual and I will try and shoot "around the clock".

---------- Post added 10-04-18 at 07:56 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
You can find many of the legacy glass manuals and other accessories (bellows, tubes, reverse adapters) on the Ricoh Canada site:

Support?RICOH IMAGING CANADA

Which is were the above site got it from in the first place.
Not a Number,
Thank you for the link.

---------- Post added 10-04-18 at 07:59 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by torashi Quote
Congrats. Nice setup. Try to get a macro rail to shift the camera as much as you shift the lens to avoid change in perspective. It will make stitching a lot easier. A tripod mount would solve it too, but I've never seen or read about one for this lens. And since it rotates, it would have to affix on the very narrow area around the mount.
Another thing you can do is to make distortion tests (brick walls, buildings with straight lines that fill the frame, etc. at close distance and infinity) with lens straight on and shifted, noting the amount of shift on each frame, then augmenting the canvas size in an editor and correct for distortion. Note the amount of correction for infinity, 10m and 1m. After that, you can correct each frame before stitching from now on and have better, smoother panoramas.
I think this is a subject we could expand on the forum and write an article and review on.
torashi,
Thank you for the information and suggestions.
I will have to explore them.
10-04-2018, 06:04 PM - 1 Like   #9
Veteran Member




Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Medellín
Posts: 1,322
You're welcome. I hope you get many, many happy hours of photography with your new toy.

10-04-2018, 06:52 PM - 3 Likes   #10
Forum Member
scottab's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2012
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 76
Original Poster
First panorama

Conditions here were much less than ideal for a great image. With that said I still wanted to play with making a horizontal panorama with the new lens. The K1 was on a tripod, I used the cameras level for horizontal and vertical alignment. F 8 or 11, ISO 400 1/500th? The first image was in the center unshifted. I then clicked left 10 clicks and 10 images. I then rotated the lens and clicked right 10 clicks and 10 images. For a total of 21 images. As I understand, each click moves the lens one millimeter. I used Microsoft Image Composite Editor to make the panorama. Not the best software for panoramas but it is free. I will need to invest in a better program. The next experiment will be with a tall building and converging lines.

---------- Post added 10-04-18 at 08:55 PM ----------

A big thanks again to everyone that took time to respond to my post.
Just my opinion, but I think that the Pentax community. Is the most helpful and friendliest online.
Attached Images
 
10-06-2018, 04:44 AM   #11
Moderator
Not a Number's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Venice, CA
Posts: 10,503
I use Hugin which is free. Nice test shot and congratulations on acquiring such a sought after lens.

Note that most panorama stitching programs assume you are pivoting the camera on a tripod rather than using a shift lens or tripod head. Thus the software applies distortion correction where it shouldn't. I noticed this in Hugin when the gridlines in the preview where showing horizontal line correction where there should have been any. The solution supposedly is to go into the lens parameters and override the horizontal FOV to 10..
10-06-2018, 08:00 AM   #12
Forum Member
scottab's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2012
Photos: Gallery | Albums
Posts: 76
Original Poster
QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
I use Hugin which is free. Nice test shot and congratulations on acquiring such a sought after lens.

Note that most panorama stitching programs assume you are pivoting the camera on a tripod rather than using a shift lens or tripod head. Thus the software applies distortion correction where it shouldn't. I noticed this in Hugin when the gridlines in the preview where showing horizontal line correction where there should have been any. The solution supposedly is to go into the lens parameters and override the horizontal FOV to 10..
I was not aware of Hugin, thanks for the heads up. I will have to download it and play with it.
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
aperture, camera, clicks, frame, image, images, k-mount, k1, lens, lenses, level, ovf, panorama, pentax lens, pm, post, shift, slr lens, steps, threads
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wanted - Acquired: SMC Pentax 35mm F3.5 / SMC Pentax 28mm F3.5 naward001 Sold Items 3 07-14-2017 03:19 PM
Wanted - Acquired: SMC Pentax 28mm F3.5, SMC Pentax-DA 35mm F2.4 AL, SMC Pentax-F 28mm F2.8 TMoneytron Sold Items 8 07-15-2012 02:54 PM
For Sale - Sold: Pentax SMC K 28mm f3.5 SHIFT lens with case & caps Retired Pentaxian Sold Items 2 01-04-2012 06:29 AM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:20 AM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top