Originally posted by UncleVanya Grab a 50mm macro and step back. Or an FA 35mm f/2. The edge to edge sharpness and geometry of those lenses would exceed the Ultrawide solutions. Also if the 24-70 seems pricey - stay away from the DA* 11-18 - I suspect it will be similarly pricey. It will also be bulkier than the existing 12-24 f4 as it is an f/2.8 constant aperture zoom.
I have a 56/1.6 Macro that is the lensbaby velvet 56, It actually has very good edge sharpness when stopped down, F8 and F16 and the swirl effect is practically gone. In addition to that I have the HD DA 35/2.8 Macro, it works reasonably well on FF so I am hesitant to replace it with a similar Focal Length. I considered the FA31/1.9, but even stopped down to f5.6-8 I am unsure if the edge sharpness is up to par, or if people look too weird and distorted...
Good to know the DA* 11-18 is likely to be heavy and bulky. How good is the 12-24? Perhaps that's a better trade in for the Sigma 10-20?
Originally posted by bdery I believe for the job at hand you're probably all set.
That's one of the best surprises in all my testing in 2018. I love this lens. Its review is upcoming and it's quite positive. Sadly it's expensive but in my opinion it's worth it. It's as close to a Limited as anyone not Pentax ever produced, I think.
I'm not familiar with the Sigma, I'm guessing it probably has disrottion. The 24 should be fine, I think.
I don'T want to do your shopping for you. You seem to like those two lenses. To replace them with something more useful, the first question would be what do you usually do with those lenses (and do you want to keep doing it)?, and the second would be what can't you do that you'd want to do?
I would like to hear more about the Laowa 12. Do you think it might be suitable for group portrait work, or just too wide and distorted (even though it has fine edge sharpness)?
Originally posted by Sandy Hancock Rectilinear wide angle lenses distort the edges. The wider they are, the more they distort. You can't escape that. Even the Sigma 35 Art and FA31, both of which are very well corrected and not particularly wide, are not forgiving of human subjects in the corners.
If you want a distortion free group portrait, use a normal lens (or longer) and step back - a long way in the case of the classic massed school portrait.
Obviously, for the sample shot in post #1, that was not really an option unless there was a pier nearby, so you're just going to have to wear the distortion or bunch the group towards the centre.
Of the lenses you own, the DA35 macro on the KP is probably your best bet. If you really need to shoot with something very wide, the DFA15-30 is sharper corner to corner than your Sigma, and the versatility of the zoom range makes the price and size worthwhile for me. Mine is considerably better at 24mm than my DFA24-70. In some ways it's even better than my FA*24.
You're getting some great results already, and I presume you're also getting regular paid work now. Surely you can justify investing in a primo lens to up your game, at least in the near future.
I am really not keen on a 24-70, not when I am happy with FA77 and HD DA 35 Macro, I feel I'd really be doubling up on focal lengths and I just adore primes too much to see them go...
The 15-30 has caught my eye a number of times, as well as it's price tag! No... not that rich yet for that one, but it's size is also a massive turn off.
I have the advantage that I do have a KP and a K-1, I don't mind seeking out a DA/Crop lens for this task if FF just seems too expensive/difficult.
I'm glad you brought up the FA 24*, I've been eyeing that up as well as the FA28, the one thing I don't like about the A24/2.8 I have is lack of AF, so those lenses have attracted my attention also. I'm just not aware of how well it manages edge sharpness or distortion. However a recent thread about the A24/2.8 and the Orange markings suggest I can just throw it into F8 and stand a couple meters back and be fine, no need to worry about focus really for a group shot etc.
I'm also glad you brought up the FA31 and Art 35, they are future purchase contenders, but not if they distort at the edges overly...
I know you're no fan of the HD DA 35 Macro sitting on the K-1 vs the KP, but do you think that might be a wiser decision in this instance? I think I've linked you examples whereby a crop of 16:10, some PP removal of vignetting and I'm getting around 28-30mp for the shot that looks fine. Or even use Crop mode on the K-1, use the guidelines of the crop mode and have everyone in that crop zone, then at least I get 16mp of goodness with sharpness throughout (as I'm really not touching the edges at all!). My concern with it on the KP and similar framing is I end up with less mp (if aiming for similar edge spacing), or if I try and get everyone in at 24mp (a tight crop) some will be less sharp on the edge or distorted?
Not really much paid work, some family shoots here or there, nothing that allows me to give up the day job. But that's ok with me right now, I still feel I'm riding the last leg of the learning curve, I look forward to 2019 when I actually actively
seek work (as up till now it's been work of mouth).
Originally posted by clackers I wouldn't use an ultrawide, Bruce, just do what the pros do - a quite normal lens, well stopped down - and move back. Even then, there will be a little fall off in IQ towards the edges, so move a little further back to give yourself a nice safety margin, and crop. Two umbrellas to either side of your tripod will give you the even lighting across the frame the parents are after.
Thanks for the advice clackers. Can you elaborate on the two umbrellas trick? I've not heard of that before.
Originally posted by C_Jones I would also mention the Pentax 24-70 for versatility if you are using full frame. I have a 16-85 that I use with lights if required on my aps-c camera bodies, but if using full frame the 24-70 might give an edge having the F 2.8 advantage, though if more depth was required with groups you may not necessarily use the F 2.8. Still, if you are using full frame, the 24-70 is a versatile and effective tool, and would handle groups plus individual shots in a splendid manner. My Pentax 16-85 handles a lot of situations also. I keep flashes handy if I am getting images of people when using it.
16-85 I have not considered, thanks.