[aslyfox]

So it sounds like if:

I get a good copy ( it is after all, an Ebay buy with a warning from the seller - " There appears to be some lens coating loss around the edges but don't think it will interfere
with picture quality. " )

and use it appropriately

it will be subject to the same problem I have with my other equipment:

Operator Error


I can live with that

thanks to all who have replied already and who will reply in the future

I hereby award all of you " Bonus Points ", which are usable at your choice of locales that serve your favorite beverage, and when an adequate amount of local legal currency is added will result in you obtaining the refreshment of your choice.

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Last edited by aslyfox; 02-26-2019 at 03:13 PM.

[limestonecowboy]

I've had a couple but bought Sigma 150-500mm and 50-500mm lenses so sold them on. I bought one to clean up and re-sell which came out nicely Cleaned Tamron SP 500mm 55BB | Flickr As others have said they need good focus and a steady hand (or tripod) but can be nice. The doughnut Bokeh is a bit odd.

[dtrego]

Thagomizer’s post above has links that go to specific posts in PF’s own “Mirror Lens Club” thread. Just wanted to say be sure to set aside some time to go through the whole thread. It’s well worth the time!

[aslyfox]

Thagomizer’s post above has links that go to specific posts in PF’s own “Mirror Lens Club” thread. Just wanted to say be sure to set aside some time to go through the whole thread. It’s well worth the time!

the links led to photos

here is a direct link to the " Mirror Lens " club on the forum

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/122-lens-clubs/71775-mirror-lens-club.html

the first post:

Inspired by my resounding success in turning an existing thread into "the kit lens club", I've decided to go one better and create a new "club" thread for these classic lenses-we-love-to-hate: mirror lenses. Yep, they're slow and have a fixed aperture, they're not usually very contrasty or sharp, and they have extremely odd bokeh (some are worse than others on any of these counts, of course). But that doesn't mean you can't have fun with them, and sometimes even get a pretty decent image out of them!

So here's a place to post your favorite shots taken with mirror lenses. Do identify the specific lens used if possible.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/122-lens-clubs/71775-mirror-lens-club-65.html#post724571

[felixkh]

in my younger days, I was interested in those extreme telephoto lenses promising long range photography with small light lenses

then my dad made me read about those ‘ catdiotropic ’ or ‘reflective ' lens which use a set of mirrors set in the lens itself to collect the image and focus it on the film [ sensor ]

which helped me to understand the concept of " the impossible dream "

_______________________

however LBA struck once again

and I have coming to me a Tamron SP 500 1:8 TELE MACRO BBAR MC *82 *30.5 5 55BB ( production 1983 - 2006 )

Tamron SP Adaptall-2 500mm F/8 Model 55BB

Tamron Adaptall-2 SP 500mm f/8 Mirror (55BB) Lens Reviews - Tamron Adaptall Lenses - Pentax Lens Review Database

_____________________________________

so that is one of my " dirty little secrets "

is any one else willing to come into the light, admit to " dabbling " with such " creatures " and help me figure out how to use these things successfully?

these are a couple of resources that I have found and read:

Mirror…Mirror…A guide to choosing and using mirror lenses Part 1 – Wayne Grundy's PhotoTech Blog

Mirror Lenses - how good? Tamron 500/8 SP vs Canon 500/4.5L

anyone know of any others, not limited to testing the Tamron but also including hints on technique and handling of mirror lenses as well ?
______________________________________________________________________________________


I know that I am not the only person who has been tempted by the promise of these things

Thanks

I too succumbed and bought one late last year in pristine condition but have not used it as yet.

[pepperberry farm]

I bought a copy of the Tamron 55BB a couple of years ago - and honestly do not use it enough:

[aslyfox]

my ebay purchase arrived yesterday

as advertised it is a Tamron Adaptall-2 SP 500mm f/8 Mirror (55BB) with front and end caps and the appropriate hood. ( don't like the fact the hood when reversed over the lens does not lock into place ) and the carrying case. It is in good shape but has some deterioration of the outer lens coating on the extreme edges

I'm under the weather and it is very cold here now so the only photos using it so far are here:

Adaptall Mount Club (Tamron). - PentaxForums.com

photos of the lens are posted soon in the " Your Latest Acquisition " thread:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/14-general-talk/99051-your-latest-acquis...ml#post4595876

I am admittedly a newbie ( who posts a lot ) so hints, guidance and suggestions are eagerly sought:

what settings should I use on my K 3 or K 3 II

best methods of bracing if I don't use a monopod or tripod

and any thing else you might want to add

this is my first mirror lens and my first adaptall lens

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Last edited by aslyfox; 03-05-2019 at 06:33 AM.

[Gary H Perth]

my ebay purchase arrived yesterday

as advertised it is a Tamron Adaptall-2 SP 500mm f/8 Mirror (55BB) with front and end caps and the appropriate hood. ( don't like the fact the hood when reversed over the lens does not lock into place ) and the carrying case. It is in good shape but has some deterioration of the outer lens coating on the extreme edges

I am admittedly a newbie ( who posts a lot ) so hints, guidance and suggestions are eagerly sought:

what settings should I use on my K 3 or K 3 II

best methods of bracing if I don't use a monopod or tripod

and any thing else you might want to add

this is my first mirror lens and my first adaptall lens

Its a fixed aperture, so I usually use the Av setting with an ISO about 1600 - depends on your camera model as to which ISO keeps you out of the whole-grain category of lost sharpness. My K70 gives acceptably sharp images up to 3200 ISO. Using the old film-era formula that "the focal length is the fastest hand-held shutter speed", then my ISO needs to give me a shutter speed faster than 1/500 sec. For high-resolution digital, I would suggest that at least doubling the focal length is appropriate, so hand-hold for shots faster than 1/1000sec unless you are really well braced.

My brace position is: left shoulder against a wall or car, left hand cradling the lens barrel from below, right hand holding the camera body with finger on the shutter. The left hand can then make minor focus tweaks as I hold my breath and press the shutter release.

Your indoor deer-eye shots are also testing the non-existent depth of field at close to the minimum focus distance. There is a very sensible reason why the lens does not have DoF marks when most other 1980s lenses made a big point about the DoF.

This is a lens which rewards perseverance over enthusiasm, and you really do need to learn the physics of the focal length to get the most enjoyment from some spectacular "long range close-ups").

Enjoy this lens, it is remarkably different form the others in your kit.

[aslyfox]

Its a fixed aperture, so I usually use the Av setting with an ISO about 1600 - depends on your camera model as to which ISO keeps you out of the whole-grain category of lost sharpness. My K70 gives acceptably sharp images up to 3200 ISO. Using the old film-era formula that "the focal length is the fastest hand-held shutter speed", then my ISO needs to give me a shutter speed faster than 1/500 sec. For high-resolution digital, I would suggest that at least doubling the focal length is appropriate, so hand-hold for shots faster than 1/1000sec unless you are really well braced.

My brace position is: left shoulder against a wall or car, left hand cradling the lens barrel from below, right hand holding the camera body with finger on the shutter. The left hand can then make minor focus tweaks as I hold my breath and press the shutter release.

Your indoor deer-eye shots are also testing the non-existent depth of field at close to the minimum focus distance. There is a very sensible reason why the lens does not have DoF marks when most other 1980s lenses made a big point about the DoF.

This is a lens which rewards perseverance over enthusiasm, and you really do need to learn the physics of the focal length to get the most enjoyment from some spectacular "long range close-ups").

Enjoy this lens, it is remarkably different form the others in your kit.

I use the K 3 or K 3 II

if you do as described for the K 70, any thoughts about the K 3 or K 3 II

Av + ??

[johnha]

As has been mentioned, the Tamron is not a cheap mirror (there was a flood of cheap T2 mount mirrors in the '90s). The donuts aren't great but can be minimised in many cases, note thought that non-mirror long tele's can also have horrid bokeh (not donuts but horrid all the same), my KA Sigma APO 400/5.6 for one. They're also much more compact & lighter than a refractor and lose only a stop to most.

I haven't tried it but assume if you put the camera in TAV you should be able to set your shutter speed and let the camera worry about ISO (one way to get around the fixed aperture). I did some experiments with 2x & 3x teleconverters on mine (K-5), framing at these focal lengths in itself is hard enough on its own. My best approach was to mount on a tripod with ball head - keeping the head unlocked so the tripod takes the weight but allows movement.

This is the full APS-C frame from the K-5, Tamron 55B, 3x Vivitar teleconverter, ISO6400, 1/2000th and considerable sharpening (it's soft but it was literally miles away at cruising altitude):

[Racer X 69]

The Tamron catadioptric mirror lenses are among the better examples. @csa has one and has taken some lovely shots with it (hand-held, if I remember correctly).

I have a few Soviet mirror lenses, one of which is the ЗМ-5СА 8/500. A well adjusted copy such as mine is capable of taking very good photos when used to its strengths. Focusing is critical on all of these lenses - you really need to use magnified Live View on a DSLR, or magnify the image in the EVF on a mirrorless camera, in order to nail accurate focus consistently. That makes hand-held work more of a challenge. Plus, the donut-shaped out-of-focus highlights rarely add anything positive to a photo, though I've seen a few where they provided some novelty effect.

EDIT: The photo below was a quick snap taken in the garden a couple of years ago (if I remember correctly), with the ЗМ-5СА 8/500 on my A7 MkII. The fur is showing plenty of detail in this accurately-focused example. Note the distinctive out-of-focus highlights at the top of the frame, though...

Is that cat on a leash?


Oh, and look at the cool donut bokeh.


Mmmm . . . . . . . donuts . . . . .

[BigMackCam]

Is that cat on a leash?

Yes. Yes it is

That's Boo Boo, a rescued stray cat I adopted from the RSPCA in September 2014. He was in a terrible state when I got him. The rescue centre said it would be best for him to be an indoor cat, but he loves to go outside... so, the harness is a compromise. Actually, these days he probably doesn't need it. He's happy just to wander around the garden and play chase. But there's another cat has started to visit regularly and they play together. I'm still a little worried he might chase after it and jump the fence...

Oh, and look at the cool donut bokeh.


Mmmm . . . . . . . donuts . . . . .

Donuts... is there anything they can't do?

[Lowell Goudge]

My venture into the land of donut bokeh is a celestron C90 (1000mmF11)

The big issue with any long lens, and mirrors are actually worse, due to the light weight, is to kill vibration of the lens when mounted on a tripod.

You need to hang weight from the bottom of the column of the tripod to dampen things.

Focus is a bit tough with F8 and slower lenses due to a dark viewfinder. Try using focus peaking and live view it might help out

[Racer X 69]

Caught this doe just outside my front door.

Shot handleld with a Pentax *istDL and Sigma 600mm f8 Mirror lens.

Six Megapickles of CCD goodness.

[BigMackCam]

Caught this doe just outside my front door.

Shot handleld with a Pentax *istDL and Sigma 600mm f8 Mirror lens.

Six Megapickles of CCD goodness.

Oh my, that's awful nice!

And choc full o' donuts, too

Seriously, though... that's a sharp result from the Sigma 8/600, right there. Nice.

This is one of those times where six megapickles can help. With that kind of pixel density, the very tiniest of focus inaccuracies and lens softness or aberrations are less apparent. I was playing around with my Samsung GX-1L (*ist DL2) earlier today, and figuring out AF fine adjustments (in DEBUG mode). It's far less critical than even my 10 megapickle GX-10's, and both are so much more forgiving than the K-5, K-3 and K-3II...