[Prince Harbinger]

Found these at the pawn shop. The camera appears to be missing the release lever? Also, the viewfinder has a metal piece that moves side to side when I tilt it around. Wonder what that is. At first I thought the prism mirror was damaged. Don't know anything about the Albinar ADG 80-200mm 1:39 MC. Has some fungus that I am able to clean off. Only paid $30.00. I was most interested in the Takumar and SMC Pentax 50mm.

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Last edited by Prince Harbinger; 03-22-2019 at 09:35 AM.

[eddie1960]

well, it would be a good price just for the 135 f2.5. not a stellar lens (no SMC would be wise to use with a filter to offset that lack)
the 50 f2.0 has a decent coating, performance it like the 135 middling but not bad. good lense to learn to manual focus with and it too if in good shape will sell for at least the $30
the albinar may be worth cleaning
the camera is not my favourite, if i was going to use one more auto it would be the me super , this is a baby brother, fetches little to know return ... maybe a way to learn about repairing them...

all in all the $30 looks well spent

[Prince Harbinger]

well, it would be a good price just for the 135 f2.5. not a stellar lens (no SMC would be wise to use with a filter to offset that lack)
the 50 f2.0 has a decent coating, performance it like the 135 middling but not bad. good lense to learn to manual focus with and it too if in good shape will sell for at least the $30
the albinar may be worth cleaning
the camera is not my favourite, if i was going to use one more auto it would be the me super , this is a baby brother, fetches little to know return ... maybe a way to learn about repairing them...

all in all the $30 looks well spent

Thanks, I really like that the Takumar has a built in lens hood. I was really hoping that the 50mm was a 35mm. The focusing ring seems to be jammed on the 50mm. I can't move it. Wonder what could be causing that. Here's two of the other bodies I have.

[eddie1960]

Thanks, I really like that the Takumar has a built in lens hood. I was really hoping that the 50mm was a 35mm. The focusing ring seems to be jammed on the 50mm. I can't move it. Wonder what could be causing that. Here's two of the other bodies I have.

me super w the drive ... that is worth a cla . good camera.. i have one in silver
jammed focus ... could be many things a nang or drop could cause it. the grease/libricant drying out ... i am not one for taking lenses apart myself so cant help but there are several videos out there on doing it clean re libricate and make sure its all aligned. not rwally worth paying on a basic old kit lens there are many thousands of them made

[E-man]

I've had that Albinar 80-200 lens with a Minolta mount for about 35 years. I loved it when I didn't know any better but over the years, I've had the opportunity to use better glass and in the process have come to realize just how thoroughly crap-tastic it really is. I also have two other Albinar lenses in my Minolta kit--a mediocre 35-70 zoom and a 28mm f2.8 that's actually pretty decent.

[ZombieArmy]

The Tak 135 Bayonet is a great lens and was worth the price of the entire kit by itself so you didn't do too bad.

[ramiot]

I have the Takumar 1355 F:2.5 Bayonet and must admit I like it very much. Here are some pictures taken with the Takumar... as early as last week.

[Just1MoreDave]

The focusing ring seems to be jammed on the 50mm. I can't move it.

Probably somebody dropped it. The inner threads on the aluminum focusing ring get jammed slightly cross-threaded and immovable. You can see someone tried hard to turn the focus until the grip came unglued. You can strip down the front of the lens (typical Pentax build) until you remove the external focus ring, and see the aluminum ring it was attached to has a slight tilt. Pry up the low point and it'll eventually snap back into place. The lens should work fine after that except no grip. Maybe a candidate for experiments, pretty hard to sell.

Someone really wanted to disassemble that M50/1.7, carved themselves two new spanner slots.

[Prince Harbinger]

I have the Takumar 1355 F:2.5 Bayonet and must admit I like it very much. Here are some pictures taken with the Takumar... as early as last week.

Really nice sample shots.👍🏼 Thanks for sharing.

---------- Post added 03-16-19 at 01:26 PM ----------

Probably somebody dropped it. The inner threads on the aluminum focusing ring get jammed slightly cross-threaded and immovable. You can see someone tried hard to turn the focus until the grip came unglued. You can strip down the front of the lens (typical Pentax build) until you remove the external focus ring, and see the aluminum ring it was attached to has a slight tilt. Pry up the low point and it'll eventually snap back into place. The lens should work fine after that except no grip. Maybe a candidate for experiments, pretty hard to sell.

Someone really wanted to disassemble that M50/1.7, carved themselves two new spanner slots.

I'm going to have to open it up and fix it. Hopefully it just needs some grease. I'll likely replace the missing plastic for the focus ring with leather. Thanks for the advice.

[ZombieArmy]

If we're posting some samples of the Tak bayonet, I wanna join!

[Prince Harbinger]

If we're posting some samples of the Tak bayonet, I wanna join!

Lovely shots, wow!

[Prince Harbinger]

Probably somebody dropped it. The inner threads on the aluminum focusing ring get jammed slightly cross-threaded and immovable. You can see someone tried hard to turn the focus until the grip came unglued. You can strip down the front of the lens (typical Pentax build) until you remove the external focus ring, and see the aluminum ring it was attached to has a slight tilt. Pry up the low point and it'll eventually snap back into place. The lens should work fine after that except no grip. Maybe a candidate for experiments, pretty hard to sell.

Someone really wanted to disassemble that M50/1.7, carved themselves two new spanner slots.

After disassembling the jammed lens. The grease doesn't apear dry. The only way to get the focus ring to turn is if I loosen the three screws. There's a problem with that when it is put back together. The ring turns without moving the optic block.

[Just1MoreDave]

The aluminum part in your last photo has two threads machined in it. The threads you can see are the big ones, which shove the lens elements in and out. There are also fine-pitch threads on the outside of the aluminum part. Those are the threads that are jammed. Since they aren't moving it's hard to tell those threads are even there. You have to remove the three screws holding on the focus grip ring, then you'll expose a gap between the side of the aluminum ring and the plastic below it. That gap (I think) is uneven now, because of the impact. Look for a point where the gap is narrowest, by maybe a millimeter. Then use something to pry the aluminum ring up at that point. It should pop back into place and then begin to turn again.

Then you'll have a logic puzzle to get the lens back together. The large threads have two or three starting points. Only one point works - everything ends up in the correct spot. The correct point is not that obvious so you may have to try several times to find the right way.

[Prince Harbinger]

The aluminum part in your last photo has two threads machined in it. The threads you can see are the big ones, which shove the lens elements in and out. There are also fine-pitch threads on the outside of the aluminum part. Those are the threads that are jammed. Since they aren't moving it's hard to tell those threads are even there. You have to remove the three screws holding on the focus grip ring, then you'll expose a gap between the side of the aluminum ring and the plastic below it. That gap (I think) is uneven now, because of the impact. Look for a point where the gap is narrowest, by maybe a millimeter. Then use something to pry the aluminum ring up at that point. It should pop back into place and then begin to turn again.

Then you'll have a logic puzzle to get the lens back together. The large threads have two or three starting points. Only one point works - everything ends up in the correct spot. The correct point is not that obvious so you may have to try several times to find the right way.

I was able to fix it. Thanks for your guidance. I find it interesting that the focus barrel sticks out more than the F1.8. I also was able to make it clickless by removing a spring above the aperture ball. I just have to finish treating the front element in the solution. That's two lenses fixed. Now it's time to clean the fungus from the Takumar.