[drewdlephone]

Good points: both the 55 and the 135 have *amazing* resolving power. I didn't realize what these were truly capable of on my Spotmatic, but that's also because of my amateur hands. With digital, and I can see the results and fine tune from there, so I got some very sharp photos out of both lenses. Focusing wasn't as hard as I thought it might be, though not as easy as on the Spot. The adapter works flawlessly.

Here's what the problem is, and why I'm not posting my shots yet: the camera seems to be a bit confused. I figured out how to input manual focal lengths and allow aperture control via the collar, but my metering seems out to lunch. Using the green button under bright conditions, even with the aperture turned up to F11 or higher, the camera is shooting at 2500-4000th of a second shutter speed. I *never* get that with the DA lenses. Highest I've ever seen is 750 or 1000, and that's wide open. The pictures seemed to come out okay, regardless. Just seemed a little weird. When I brought down the shutter speed, I got huge amounts of overexposure.

On a related note, the viewfinder doesn't seem to accurately portray what's being shot, at least with the 135. I found a nice closeup of a ship, took it, and was disappointed that the actual picture seems to be missing 75mm worth of focal difference. This wasn't just a few millimeters on each side of the frame, it was a hugely noticeable increase in the width of the frame, vs. what I had seen in my viewfinder.

Perhaps all you Takumar nuts could help me? BTW, I'm using an original Pentax adapter purchased yesterday at Kerrisdale Cameras while I was in Victoria, so I know it's not the adapter.

[ddhytz]

... even with the aperture turned up to F11 or higher, the camera is shooting at 2500-4000th of a second shutter speed. . .

Did you set the auto/manual switch to 'M'?

[Canada_Rockies]

Good points: both the 55 and the 135 have *amazing* resolving power. I didn't realize what these were truly capable of on my Spotmatic, but that's also because of my amateur hands. With digital, and I can see the results and fine tune from there, so I got some very sharp photos out of both lenses. Focusing wasn't as hard as I thought it might be, though not as easy as on the Spot. The adapter works flawlessly.

Here's what the problem is, and why I'm not posting my shots yet: the camera seems to be a bit confused. I figured out how to input manual focal lengths and allow aperture control via the collar, but my metering seems out to lunch. Using the green button under bright conditions, even with the aperture turned up to F11 or higher, the camera is shooting at 2500-4000th of a second shutter speed. I *never* get that with the DA lenses. Highest I've ever seen is 750 or 1000, and that's wide open. The pictures seemed to come out okay, regardless. Just seemed a little weird. When I brought down the shutter speed, I got huge amounts of overexposure.

On a related note, the viewfinder doesn't seem to accurately portray what's being shot, at least with the 135. I found a nice closeup of a ship, took it, and was disappointed that the actual picture seems to be missing 75mm worth of focal difference. This wasn't just a few millimeters on each side of the frame, it was a hugely noticeable increase in the width of the frame, vs. what I had seen in my viewfinder.

Perhaps all you Takumar nuts could help me? BTW, I'm using an original Pentax adapter purchased yesterday at Kerrisdale Cameras while I was in Victoria, so I know it's not the adapter.

You need to put the lenses into manual aperture mode. This gives you stop down viewing (bad, dark) but the lens will actually use the f/stop you set. If your Takumars are Auto Takumars, with the controls at Automatic, the lens will always shoot wide open.

Also, with the M42 lenses (not the M's and K's unfortunately) you can use Av mode because when you push the shutter release, the lens is already stopped down. The k10d I have will not change the aperture setting on my M lenses (or my A lenses with the aperture ring off "A") from wide open.

[drewdlephone]

You need to put the lenses into manual aperture mode. This gives you stop down viewing (bad, dark) but the lens will actually use the f/stop you set. If your Takumars are Auto Takumars, with the controls at Automatic, the lens will always shoot wide open.

Also, with the M42 lenses (not the M's and K's unfortunately) you can use Av mode because when you push the shutter release, the lens is already stopped down. The k10d I have will not change the aperture setting on my M lenses (or my A lenses with the aperture ring off "A") from wide open.

I will definitely try that. I had been shooting in AUTO mode, both my Taks have a switch for that. I was always told (at least with the lens mounted on a Spot) to leave the switch in Auto mode, or else metering doesn't occur properly. On digital, of COURSE it has to be opposite! I'll try it soon as I have some dinner. The camera itself was in manual mode.

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Last edited by drewdlephone; 10-09-2008 at 10:19 AM.

[drewdlephone]

You need to put the lenses into manual aperture mode. This gives you stop down viewing (bad, dark) but the lens will actually use the f/stop you set. If your Takumars are Auto Takumars, with the controls at Automatic, the lens will always shoot wide open.

Also, with the M42 lenses (not the M's and K's unfortunately) you can use Av mode because when you push the shutter release, the lens is already stopped down. The k10d I have will not change the aperture setting on my M lenses (or my A lenses with the aperture ring off "A") from wide open.

Not that replying twice does much good, but something you said caught my attention on the second read: You said the lens has to be in Manual mode or else it will shoot wide open, correct? Does that bode the same for when the lens is on the Spotmatic? The Spot obviously doesn't have Av, so bearing that in mind, if I was shooting with the lever in Auto, was I shooting wide open the entire time? *sigh* If that's the case, that's pretty frustrating.

[Nesster]

On the Spot, or other screw mount camera, you set the lens to Auto so by default it remains wide open for focusing ease. The camera pushes in the pin on the mount at exposure time to close the aperture. And the light meter switch does two things: it also closes down the aperture and at the same time turns the meter on.

On a non screw mount body, there is no mechanism to stop down the lens. Therefore if you leave the lens in Auto, it remains wide open all the time, regardless of what aperture you select via the ring.

Switching the lens to Manual makes the lens stop down immediately and directly via the aperture ring. Therfore you stop it down, take your reading (in manual metering mode) and shoot. You can open the lens two ways for focusing: 1) turn the aperture ring back up or 2) use the A/M switch to toggle between open and closed. Actually, if you're shooting around f/4 or wider (or even f/5.6) you may be able to focus fine without opening up.

Using the lens in Manual on a Spottie works but is a waste: turning the meter on would stop it down anyhow, and all you get for focusing/framing is a darker image.

You were using the Spottie exactly right, it is the K mount cameras that need a different technique.

[drewdlephone]

On the Spot, or other screw mount camera, you set the lens to Auto so by default it remains wide open for focusing ease. The camera pushes in the pin on the mount at exposure time to close the aperture. And the light meter switch does two things: it also closes down the aperture and at the same time turns the meter on.

On a non screw mount body, there is no mechanism to stop down the lens. Therefore if you leave the lens in Auto, it remains wide open all the time, regardless of what aperture you select via the ring.

Switching the lens to Manual makes the lens stop down immediately and directly via the aperture ring. Therfore you stop it down, take your reading (in manual metering mode) and shoot. You can open the lens two ways for focusing: 1) turn the aperture ring back up or 2) use the A/M switch to toggle between open and closed. Actually, if you're shooting around f/4 or wider (or even f/5.6) you may be able to focus fine without opening up.

Using the lens in Manual on a Spottie works but is a waste: turning the meter on would stop it down anyhow, and all you get for focusing/framing is a darker image.

You were using the Spottie exactly right, it is the K mount cameras that need a different technique.

Glad to hear it. I didn't think my last 10 rolls of film would have turned out as well had it been otherwise. Also, the technique for putting the lens in Manual mode worked. Now I just need to take some half-decent pictures with it.