[MarkJerling]

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I currently have several m42 lenses, and each one has a $10 adapter on it, spring removed, hand-tightened. The lenses mount and un-mount from my DSLR's as if they were native K lenses.

I second this advice.

[garywakeling]

+1 for genuine adapter and a fingernail

[Aaron28]

have several knock off adpaters….some I have removed the 'spring' others I have not.....have considered gluing ( blue locite was a choice to do so) but have not which has been a good choice now that I have a few m42 bodies I am running film through and can use the lenses readily n easily....

will also note my K-50 is the body for m42 adapted lenses...on rare occasion will place on the K-3ii and have refused to use any on the K-1 because they (adapters) have gotten 'stuck'

[BruceBanner]

Well thank you everyone for weighing in with their 2 cents. It seems quite a divide, a lot suggesting the genuine article whilst others suggesting cheap ones are fine. I wouldn't mind the genuine article so much... but its $129AUD! That's quite a step up from the $5-10 I was thinking I'd be paying. However I do want to look after this Tak 50, I've seen what it can do and if it is a good copy will most likely come with me to the grave

Yes, one can using Loctite, though it would not make sense with other than the cheapest adapters. Of course, the retaining spring must be removed, leaving the lens potentially able to rotate off the camera (no retention pin).



No, they are not all the same. The brand-X are fundamentally different in fit and action than the genuine Pentax. Simply put, brand-X fits tight in the mount with registration defined by the adapter, while the genuine fits loose with registration defined by the face of the camera's K-mount flange. The tight fit might be a concern due to possibility of the adapter creating metal shards by action of poorly-machined edges against the body mount tangs. Metal dust on the mirror and in the mirror box of one of my film cameras was a side-effect of my brand-X adapter experiment several years ago.

There are other differences in how the tangs are machined on the brand-X versions that makes them prone to becoming stuck on the camera unless the retention spring has been removed. Some users on this site have resorted to use a Dremel tool to cut the adapter out of the mount.

My advice is that get a genuine adapter and leave it on the rear of your new lens along with a K rear cap. It will mount fast just like a regular K-mount when you need it with the adapter easily removable (takes less than a second) when you are done. It only takes a few more seconds to spin it back onto the back of the lens, ready for next time.


Steve

Sounds good, and will probably be my first port of call. My hesitation and somewhat seeking a permanent (even possibly gluing) the adapter is more to do with how I shoot events. When I do weddings and such I do lens swap frequently, and it can get a bit frantic at times, stuffing lens caps in pockets and what not, I'd hate for a shiny metal adapter to see its way into a lens pouch and start scratching some neighbouring element
So my thinking process was to keep the two together at all times to limit the liklihood of losing the adapter on a job, adapter being loose somewhere and scratching something, or worse getting the adapter stuck on the camera at critical moments.

I currently have several m42 lenses, and each one has a $10 adapter on it, spring removed, hand-tightened. The lenses mount and un-mount from my DSLR's as if they were native K lenses.

Of the dozen or so adapters I've used over the years, 2 have been problematic - one got stuck on the camera (used the tool to remove it) and one did not permit infinity focus. Otherwise, they've been fine.

Good to know.

you don't need to remove the adapter at all if you have a second body to become your M42 body....

Well that is true, and a good reason not to glue as well, if for example I pick up a m42 body some time in the future?

Just don’t glue an adapter to that 8 element Takumar. Never a good idea for any Takumar, even more so for a rare gem.

Yeah I had thought about that, I don't think I will do the permanent thing...

Another vote for the genuine Pentax Adaptor K for M42. I have used the cheap knock-offs and the difference in quality and ease of use is striking.

Ok, good to know, thanks again Sandy.

True, never any question about registration distance, fit, or finish with the genuine article.

Yeah... something makes me think that if I had a cheap one and something wasn't right I would always be wondering if the genuine was better...

I don't have that many adapters (maybe 4 or 5) but this strategy works for me. Removing the spring makes M42 lenses them much more usable IMO.

Only disadvantage is the lens is not locked in place but for the adapters I have they are tight enough that my lenses have never shown signs of loosening while using (focusing etc) the lens.

Good to hear that without the spring things still feel semi tight. I wonder if there is a trick you can do to further hold the lens in place, like fixing an interesting lens hood that has provisions for an elastic band or something to dock onto the hood and then be tensioned back to the camera body (perhaps to the tripod plate)? Yes... I am that crazy to rubber band this thing...

have several knock off adpaters….some I have removed the 'spring' others I have not.....have considered gluing ( blue locite was a choice to do so) but have not which has been a good choice now that I have a few m42 bodies I am running film through and can use the lenses readily n easily....

will also note my K-50 is the body for m42 adapted lenses...on rare occasion will place on the K-3ii and have refused to use any on the K-1 because they (adapters) have gotten 'stuck'

Thanks Aaron.

I guess I am siding more towards getting a genuine adapter. Has anyone removed the spring of the genuine and felt the lens once screwed in and adapter fully twisted into the right positon that it feels quite loose? I'm wondering now with the spring removal hack if some 3rd party ones are tighter than the genuine article?

---------- Post added 11-18-19 at 07:58 PM ----------

The removal is not a pain IF you use the genuine Pentax adapter. You use your fingernail and it's really simple. M42 lenses often work fine in av mode if they have a manual switch for the aperture. The viewfinder just gets darker as you close down the aperture.

Oh, ok, so that sounds the same as how the lensbaby lenses work in Av. Aperture does work but viewfinder acts like it is permanently doing the 'Optical Preview' thing, which is good on one hand as it negates needing to use that feature, but bad on the other in that the viewfinder gets dimmer.

The Tak 50/1.4 also has a A and M switch? I take it due to lack of connections you cannot control the aperture from the body... but then what is this lever switch for?

[JohnX]

Well thank you everyone for weighing in with their 2 cents. It seems quite a divide, a lot suggesting the genuine article whilst others suggesting cheap ones are fine. I wouldn't mind the genuine article so much... but its $129AUD! That's quite a step up from the $5-10 I was thinking I'd be paying. However I do want to look after this Tak 50, I've seen what it can do and if it is a good copy will most likely come with me to the grave

I bought a genuine Pentax adapter on Amazon UK a week ago for £18.76 posted. Just checked; still available at that price.

I have no immediate idea what the £/$AUD exchange rate is, nor the postage from UK to Australia, but if you want to put the work in and do the calculations, decide postal service, etc, I am happy to handle the logistics for you this end. You can reimburse me via PayPal gift.

[pentaxus]

I do what dms does but I also put the screw back in that held the spring. That puts a little pressure against the threads and helps the adapter stay on. I also have a beater Takumar 17mm fisheye that I took one step further. I drilled into the back of the lens so that it locks in place like a regular K lens. I have to push the lens release to get it off. I wouldn't do that with an 8 element Tak though.

[kernos]

I personally have a bricked ACB K-30 as an m42 camera with a perma mounted adapter and that works fine. But if you want to use this on your K1 then let's talk use case. Are you switching lenses in the field? If you are, juggling the pentax adapter is going to be a pain. Don't want to be digging around in the dirt what with the fauna you guys have. If not switching in the field then you can deal with juggling the adapter and probably even keep your fingers off the sensor. As for gluing, you might look around for a glue that will not damage the lens or adapter when a solvent is applied. This will protect the lens value if you ever sell. I know this combination exists but I've lost contact with the one person I would trust to know what works. If this is likely to be your only m42 lens by all means buy an original pentax adapter for around $40 US used. If not, cheapo, flangeless adapters that preserve infinity focus are the way to go.

[Not a Number]

Seems kind of a waste to use the genuine Pentax adapters and remove the spring on them when a 3rd party knock off works just as well without the spring. I wouldn't use a 3rd party copy with the spring installed.

People have been known to cut a notch on the rear of the lens mount so the lens can be "locked" on. I'm not recommending that one should do this but if it is your own lens you can decide what you want to do with it.

[BruceBanner]

I bought a genuine Pentax adapter on Amazon UK a week ago for £18.76 posted. Just checked; still available at that price.

I have no immediate idea what the £/$AUD exchange rate is, nor the postage from UK to Australia, but if you want to put the work in and do the calculations, decide postal service, etc, I am happy to handle the logistics for you this end. You can reimburse me via PayPal gift.

You are too kind, I found the adapter you are talking about, are you sure it's Genuine? Pentax K Mount Adaptor for screw thread lenses: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo

The ones I have seen here in oz don't say Japan or even ASAHI. Some that I have seen have images with the official Pentax packaging and say simply 'Pentax' and 'Philippines' engraved. I guess they just seem to differ around the world. I do have family in UK so if that seller won't sell to me in Aus I should be able to get them to grab it for me and fwd on, thanks ever so much for the offer. <3 this community

I do what dms does but I also put the screw back in that held the spring. That puts a little pressure against the threads and helps the adapter stay on. I also have a beater Takumar 17mm fisheye that I took one step further. I drilled into the back of the lens so that it locks in place like a regular K lens. I have to push the lens release to get it off. I wouldn't do that with an 8 element Tak though.

Oh I like that, top tip! I will try that. The drilling part is interesting to me, I wonder if there is a video or instructions to show it being done (not that I would do it, just curious to see it).

I personally have a bricked ACB K-30 as an m42 camera with a perma mounted adapter and that works fine. But if you want to use this on your K1 then let's talk use case. Are you switching lenses in the field? If you are, juggling the pentax adapter is going to be a pain. Don't want to be digging around in the dirt what with the fauna you guys have. If not switching in the field then you can deal with juggling the adapter and probably even keep your fingers off the sensor. As for gluing, you might look around for a glue that will not damage the lens or adapter when a solvent is applied. This will protect the lens value if you ever sell. I know this combination exists but I've lost contact with the one person I would trust to know what works. If this is likely to be your only m42 lens by all means buy an original pentax adapter for around $40 US used. If not, cheapo, flangeless adapters that preserve infinity focus are the way to go.

Absolutely, I do weddings and shoots and I go between special artistic glass to 'regular' glass throughout the day. That's what is nervewracking for me about the whole adapter thing...

Example; Velvet 56.


Back to FA77;


I am pretty organised now, with holsters and lens pouches etc, but you really want to minimise potential stuff ups on important event work like this, can't be having a stubborn adapter not coming off during the ceremony kiss!

From the options and solutions I have seen offered here I am liking the idea more of removing the spring, placing the screw back (for additional grip) and then just being mindful of it being there. As I said earlier, I can be an 'ideas man' at times, and have already thought about investing in a small screw on metal hood, taking a hax saw to it, cutting grooves into the hood, filing them with the intention of putting a rubber band through the grooves and back up towards the camera to some anchor point (tripod plate or something), just somewhere so that there is slight tension to help keep the lens on the camera body (without interfering with manual focus etc). It may be completely unnecessary step, I often use rubber bands and have a few on my wrist for events, I use them to quickly wrap up diffuser umbrellas etc (for example).
I dunno... I am just uber afraid of temporarily stuffing up my K mount on my K-1 due to a stubborn or stuck adapter on an important event. I'd rather then lens fall off and break than miss an important moment for a couple that can never be duplicated again...

I was also wondering about glue, and if some were better than others. I had never heard of Loctite before Stevebrot had mentioned it. Again if anyone has further info on specific glues working well then I would like to know about it, if anyone has done this before please weigh in. If you did use glue and then wanted to unglue it, how could we approach that process safely?

Seems kind of a waste to use the genuine Pentax adapters and remove the spring on them when a 3rd party knock off works just as well without the spring. I wouldn't use a 3rd party copy with the spring installed.

People have been known to cut a notch on the rear of the lens mount so the lens can be "locked" on. I'm not recommending that one should do this but if it is your own lens you can decide what you want to do with it.

Drill or cut, keen to know how this is done, just so that I know.

[JohnX]

You are too kind, I found the adapter you are talking about, are you sure it's Genuine? Pentax K Mount Adaptor for screw thread lenses: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo

The ones I have seen here in oz don't say Japan or even ASAHI. Some that I have seen have images with the official Pentax packaging and say simply 'Pentax' and 'Philippines' engraved. I guess they just seem to differ around the world

The one I bought has the official packaging, engraved 'Pentax', 'Philippines', etc. Could be a brilliant fake, but I honestly doubt it. Just can't see that it'd be worth the effort.

[GUB]

There is one other way - non-infinity adapters. Once they are screwed onto your lens the combo works exactly like a K mount lens. Of course the downside is you cannot focus further than 2 to 3 metres with your 50 1.4. But in a lot of cases you can go in the front of the lens and readjust the infinity focus. I havn't done it for a while but - remove vanity ring - loosen rear most 3 screws and then the tricky bit - that is nutting out how much to move it in what direction. Basically you are adjusting for that approximately 1mm of flange depth of the adapter.
EDIT I have just did it with a 7 element 50 1.4 and it now focuses out to about 8 meters. At this point I have run out of adjustment. I suspect you wouldn't use your 50 at geater lengths than that.
By the way - neat wedding shots - great to see someone using good camera skills to achieve an artistic result rather than just applying a lightroom slider.

[Just1MoreDave]

...EDIT I have just did it with a 7 element 50 1.4 and it now focuses out to about 8 meters. At this point I have run out of adjustment. I suspect you wouldn't use your 50 at geater lengths than that.

Pretty much what happened when I did that. For a very short time I thought that would be fine, but kept running into situations where it wasn't fine.

All my M42 lenses except one have just an adapter without lock on them. The adapters are a mixture. The exception lens is a Vivitar 100/2.8 non-macro with a focus ring that's hard to turn. I drilled a hole for the camera locking pin in it. (I would never do that with a Takumar.) I never feel like the other lenses are too loose, as long as the focus ring is not stiff.

You can use the A-M switch in different ways. One option: switch to A to focus wide open, switch to M to close the aperture to whatever the ring is set to. Another way is keep it on M and use the aperture ring only to control aperture.

[GUB]

Pretty much what happened when I did that. For a very short time I thought that would be fine, but kept running into situations where it wasn't fine.

All my M42 lenses except one have just an adapter without lock on them. The adapters are a mixture. The exception lens is a Vivitar 100/2.8 non-macro with a focus ring that's hard to turn. I drilled a hole for the camera locking pin in it. (I would never do that with a Takumar.) I never feel like the other lenses are too loose, as long as the focus ring is not stiff.

You can use the A-M switch in different ways. One option: switch to A to focus wide open, switch to M to close the aperture to whatever the ring is set to. Another way is keep it on M and use the aperture ring only to control aperture.

Yes I moved on, bought 20 odd el-cheapo infinity adapters, snapped the springs off them and left them on the lenses. There are 4 or 5 of these elcheapos that are not up to speed - obviously a quality control issue - bey hey I paid from memory less than $2 for them. And they are not a hazard to the camera.

[BruceBanner]

There is one other way - non-infinity adapters. Once they are screwed onto your lens the combo works exactly like a K mount lens. Of course the downside is you cannot focus further than 2 to 3 metres with your 50 1.4. But in a lot of cases you can go in the front of the lens and readjust the infinity focus. I havn't done it for a while but - remove vanity ring - loosen rear most 3 screws and then the tricky bit - that is nutting out how much to move it in what direction. Basically you are adjusting for that approximately 1mm of flange depth of the adapter.
EDIT I have just did it with a 7 element 50 1.4 and it now focuses out to about 8 meters. At this point I have run out of adjustment. I suspect you wouldn't use your 50 at geater lengths than that.
By the way - neat wedding shots - great to see someone using good camera skills to achieve an artistic result rather than just applying a lightroom slider.

Yeah I don't think I will try anything as drastic as that, in fact with the Tak 50 I have heard it has really nice close up ability, not macro per se but with wide open apertures very dreamy results, I wouldn't want to lose any power with it, and I actually love foreground bokeh, so f1.4/f2 focused to infinity is actually stuff I quite like doing.

Thanks for the compliment. I always think getting things right in camera just leaves way less headaches for later in PP. I know some people criticise lensbaby lenses "just smear vaseline on the front element", "just do the effect in Photoshop" but both those points are really stupid arguments for event shooters, you don't want to be near anything yucky and greasy on a shoot, nor do you want to spend any more time editing than need be, it's literally costing you $. And just because an effect could be done in PS, my experience has taught me that not everyone knows how to use PS competently enough and nothing beats having things just done natively and authentically. The risk is really lens swapping on the day, and the initial cost of the lens in question. It may well be I prefer the Tak 50 and let the Velvet 56 go... who knows..

Pretty much what happened when I did that. For a very short time I thought that would be fine, but kept running into situations where it wasn't fine.

All my M42 lenses except one have just an adapter without lock on them. The adapters are a mixture. The exception lens is a Vivitar 100/2.8 non-macro with a focus ring that's hard to turn. I drilled a hole for the camera locking pin in it. (I would never do that with a Takumar.) I never feel like the other lenses are too loose, as long as the focus ring is not stiff.

You can use the A-M switch in different ways. One option: switch to A to focus wide open, switch to M to close the aperture to whatever the ring is set to. Another way is keep it on M and use the aperture ring only to control aperture.

Oh ok.. that sounds quite good actually, perhaps a quick way to aperture stack? I do this occasionally, such as this portrait image below;



This image is f4, f2.8 and f1.6 I think. The more stopped down part of the image in the centre and drifting towards the wider aperture shots taken for the edging. The issue is that with the Velvet 56 you have to manually change the aperture and just give the camera a slight second to catch up exposure wise to the new aperture. I have since learned that 3 shots is probably excessive, a double shot would be fine. So perhaps a Tak 50 taken in M mode (and that the aperture is set at f2.8 or 4 or something) and then a quick switch to A to give f1.4 would work well, and easier than messing with the aperture ring, I dunno... is it a hard switch to use, the A-M? Guess I'll find out...

[GUB]

This image is f4, f2.8 and f1.6 I think. The more stopped down part of the image in the centre and drifting towards the wider aperture shots taken for the edging. The issue is that with the Velvet 56 you have to manually change the aperture and just give the camera a slight second to catch up exposure wise to the new aperture. I have since learned that 3 shots is probably excessive, a double shot would be fine. So perhaps a Tak 50 taken in M mode (and that the aperture is set at f2.8 or 4 or something) and then a quick switch to A to give f1.4 would work well, and easier than messing with the aperture ring, I dunno... is it a hard switch to use, the A-M? Guess I'll find out...

Wow that shot is inspiring. Made me want to go out and try the method - but then I thought about it and couldn't see what I would gain with doing it with the 50 1.4. I think the difference is the infocus areas of the 1.4 at 1.4 is sharp whereas I am guessing it is dreamy like with the velvet. I suspect the velvet is bringing something to this image that a Tak can't do.