[mconwxdr]

So a FA43 I rented for over the holidays is on its way (for my K-70). I see a wide range of comments here about it (it's magical, it's trash; it's not good for APS-C, I love it on APS-C, etc). I often see comments that it takes a while to figure out how to get the most out of it, and seeing that I'll only have 10 days with it, I'm looking for tips so I can maximize my experience with it (and to see if I want to buy one). Given the soft edges at low apertures, it seems like portraits with the subject centered is a good use for it (and seems to be when the pixie dust shows up), but I guess it's hard to know until you get one.


Any tips, hints, opinions welcome!

[aaacb]

I personally don't see that much pixie dust with this lens. It's my favorite prime, especially on full frame, but it's still going to take poor photos in poor light. However, if conditions are right it's very capable. I also don't really notice soft edges, if I shoot at large apertures it's rare that the entire image is in focus, but what I've shot looks very nice to me. I use it on apsc, ff digital and film, and enjoy it very much for concerts in particular and general use.

[ChatMechant]

My experience is mostly on K1. Fantastic lens, don't be afraid to use it wide open. The pixie dust, to me is mostly in how it translates color. It's subtle but exquisite. But yeah, portrait snaps, small groups and details, set it at 2.8 (or maybe wide open for apsc) and you're good to go.

[Zivelot]

Hi,

I do not know about others, but I found this article helpIful:
How to optimize focusing accuracy with large-aperture lenses / explore | RICOH IMAGING

I have fine tuned most of my lenses to my K-1 including the FA43 according to their recommendation. For me at least it made a big difference in AF accuracy and keeper rates, especially with the FA77, but the FA43 improved a lot as well.

So because you will have limited time with the lens it is probably a good idea to start with the steps described in the article to avoid disappointment.

I hope it helps.

[photoptimist]

1. Bracket, bracket, bracket. For every shot you try, try it at all the apertures from wide open to f/22. That will accelerate your learning about the softness/sharpness of the lens, out-of-focus rendering, and bokeh properties. (And if you have an opinion before the shot about what the best aperture should be, write it down and then check your results against the final images.)

2. Shoot some subjects with strong nearby foregrounds and strong long-distance backgrounds (e.g., a shrubbery/flowergarden in front of a cityscape/landscape, focusing alternatively on foreground and background to see the edge to edge out-of-focus rendering on both sides.

3. Shoot a frame filled with out-of-focus holiday lights to see the shape of the bokeh at various apertures.

Enjoy the lens! (And buy it for what it can do well instead of rejecting it because it's not perfect for every shooting scenario.)

[c.a.m]

Any tips, hints, opinions welcome!

I think that you've correctly identified the varying opinions concerning this lens. In my extensive research before buying the lens, I found that most (roughly 80%) of the comments were positive.

May I offer these ideas for you to consider, based on my FA 43mm experience over the past year? I use it on a K-3 II.

- Apertures at around f/4 seem to produce the the strongest '3 dimensional' rendering of discrete subjects, when the entire subject is in focus and the background is slightly out of focus. Try various subject distances, perspectives and apertures.

- Try shooting in various lighting conditions. I find that the lens is generally best in softer lighting, while very harsh lighting and 'busy' backgrounds can produce pictures that are less pleasant to my eye, especially at apertures narrower than, say, f/5.6.

- While the lens is centrally very sharp at almost all apertures, I have found that the corners are sharpest at f/4 and f/5.6. At apertures wider than f/4, corner sharpness drops off. However, as noted by other users, this is not a big problem for portrait shots or scenes having a strong central subject. Overall, I've not been disappointed with edge and corner sharpness.

- Experiment with various subjects outdoors and inside, to get an idea of its strengths -- e.g., discrete things, landscape, cityscapes. I tend to use the lens mainly for distinct subjects such as classic cars, museum displays and artifacts (f/2 is really good here), and details of buildings. I've also enjoyed using it for street scenes and landscapes, especially when there are strong foreground objects.

- Craig

[aslyfox]

to misquote the old commercial:

You Tube

You Tube

it is difficult to stop with just one limited lens

the limiteds do they live up to the reputation and why - Page 23 - PentaxForums.com

___________________

perhaps these threads can provide some info and inspiration

the Pentax 40mm and 43mm Lens Club - Page 12 - PentaxForums.com

The FA Limited Club - PentaxForums.com

have fun

[Snapppy]

1. Bracket, bracket, bracket. For every shot you try, try it at all the apertures from wide open to f/22. That will accelerate your learning about the softness/sharpness of the lens, out-of-focus rendering, and bokeh properties. (And if you have an opinion before the shot about what the best aperture should be, write it down and then check your results against the final images.)

2. Shoot some subjects with strong nearby foregrounds and strong long-distance backgrounds (e.g., a shrubbery/flowergarden in front of a cityscape/landscape, focusing alternatively on foreground and background to see the edge to edge out-of-focus rendering on both sides.

3. Shoot a frame filled with out-of-focus holiday lights to see the shape of the bokeh at various apertures.

Enjoy the lens! (And buy it for what it can do well instead of rejecting it because it's not perfect for every shooting scenario.)

I think that you've correctly identified the varying opinions concerning this lens. In my extensive research before buying the lens, I found that most (roughly 80%) of the comments were positive.

May I offer these ideas for you to consider, based on my FA 43mm experience over the past year? I use it on a K-3 II.

- Apertures at around f/4 seem to produce the the strongest '3 dimensional' rendering of discrete subjects, when the entire subject is in focus and the background is slightly out of focus. Try various perspectives and various apertures.

- Try shooting in various lighting conditions. I find that the lens is generally best in softer lighting, while very harsh lighting and 'busy' backgrounds can produce unpleasant pictures to my eye, especially at apertures narrower than, say, f/5.6.

- While the lens is centrally very sharp at almost all apertures, I have found that the corners are sharpest at f/4 and f/5.6. At apertures wider than f/4, corner sharpness drops off. However, as noted by other users, this is not a big problem for portrait shots. Overall, I've not been disappointed with edge and corner sharpness.

- Experiment with various subjects outdoors and inside, to get an idea of its strengths -- e.g., discrete things, landscape, cityscapes. I tend to use the lens mainly for distinct subjects such as classic cars, museum displays and artifacts (f/2 is really good here), and details of buildings. I've also enjoyed using it for street scenes and landscapes, especially when there are strong foreground objects.

- Craig

I really like the advice in these posts. Great ideas, +1 to them.

I use it on my K-1 a lot (it pretty much just stays on there now unless I have a specific use case for a different lens). I fell in love with it because it requires the least amount of touch-up in post out of all my lenses to get the look I want. I do the same edit on all pictures, minimal sat boost, and very minimal contrast boost. I don't know if I'd use the word magic, but however you put it, I like how it renders images.

I found that although I don't like cropping in on a crop body because I like it wider, it produces the same sort of images on APS-C for me.

So, purely subjective, and you'll get a chance to try it out yourself, but it was enough to get frugal 'ol me to cough up the change for it. I think that was a great idea to try renting it first.

And as others mentioned, now I want to try the others

[kiwi_jono]

Just experiment with subjects you like shooting! But other ideas:
* As others have said don't be afraid to use it at f1.9 either as it has pretty good OOF rendering.
* Shoot a bit with close subjects and f2.8 & f4
* Have a play with manual focussing

[mikesbike]

I've had mine for many years. I bought it for my then exclusive 35mm film shooting, and loved it. Coming from that FF experience, I found myself not using it nearly as much with my DSLRs. The FA 77mm, which I've also had for nearly as many years, has been a different story. It gets a lot of use on my DSLRs. When I finally get a FF DSLR, I'm sure the usage of the FA 43mm will be restored. This lens as well as the FA 35mm f/2, and other shorter lens favorites from my 35mm film kit comprise my main reason for going into a FF body. Until then, I'm more likely to use the DA 40mm, DA 21mm or DA 20-40mm Limiteds. I also have a fine FA 28mm f/2.8 that presents the same FOV on APS-C as the FA 43mm does on FF, and would be useful for both formats. In fact, I can use my FA 43mm lens hood on it for APS-C use.

[BarryE]

Be aware that shutter shock can be a problem. At least it is on the K-1 for me. It may well balance differently on the K-70 so it may not be seen. Anyway, if you find some shutter speeds a little blurry just be aware. Adding this to the somewhat weaker edges than the other two Limiteds has made me surmise that shutter shock may be influencing peoples opinion of this lens. It can be a great lens, but it is not without its niggles.

Just experiment and bracket as has been said above.

[mikesbike]

I've never handled a K-1 or heard its shutter, but it is definitely larger than APS-C shutters, and the FA 43mm lens is a physically small lens. But the shutter on the K-70 is not very quiet, if it is like that of its predecessor the K-S2. However, the smaller camera body with less surface area, even the thick-grade plastic might damp out vibration from the mirror/shutter.

My very well-built and compact KP has a very quiet shutter/mirror action and that of my K-5 IIs is so quiet it whispers.

No vibration issues ever surfaced when using this lens on my 35mm film bodies.

[tokyoscape]

.. it's trash; it's not good for APS-C...

I don't have the 43 but from what I test and see, I am pretty sure it is not trash neither not good on APSC. it is a very good lense on APSC. Again, from what I test many many time because I almost buy it but change to DA*55 because it comes with WR. If 43 were a WR lense, I would own it by now.
its autofocus on K1 and K3 might not be as fast as 40ltd but 43 has very unique (in a good way) rendering.

[mconwxdr]

it was enough to get frugal 'ol me to cough up the change for it. I think that was a great idea to try renting it first

We’ll see if it can persuade the frugal out of me. I’m so frugal I had to wait for a deal just to rent the thing .

---------- Post added 12-19-19 at 11:05 PM ----------

buy it for what it can do well instead of rejecting it because it's not perfect for every shooting scenario

I needed this reminder. I sell too many lenses because of the latter.

---------- Post added 12-19-19 at 11:12 PM ----------

Apertures at around f/4 seem to produce the the strongest '3 dimensional' rendering of discrete subjects

Interesting. I would never have thought to try f/4 for the 3D look.

---------- Post added 12-19-19 at 11:14 PM ----------

I really appreciate the tips everyone. Looks like it’ll be here tomorrow, three days early, so an extra weekend to play with it.

[aslyfox]

. . . Looks like it’ll be here tomorrow, three days early, so an extra weekend to play with it.

that is pretty standard for the company I use when I rent equipment, they do it to avoid possible mailing delays causing problem for their customers

and you get some free days on your rental if there is no mailing delay

if possible, please relate your experience, good or bad, with your rental in this thread -

Information on Businesses that offer cameras and lenses for rent - PentaxForums.com


it might help others