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01-30-2020, 02:25 AM   #1
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Pentax 60-250mm 3D printing

Does anyone know anywhere in the UK where they do 3D printing of the rear baffle as I saw on here several versions but the best being the one with the square cut out of the baffle. Seems there was someone doing it a few years back but in the US.

Thanks.

01-30-2020, 03:18 AM - 2 Likes   #2
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Hey Gareth,
I just removed mine completely take a look at my less than scientific experiment on the results here...

01-30-2020, 03:52 AM   #3
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Thanks!
I saw this test last night as I was researching baffles funnily enough, didn't know it was you!
Did you find with it out all together that there was any light or contrast issues?

Thanks.
01-30-2020, 05:38 AM - 1 Like   #4
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Hi Gareth,
I have used it in all lighting conditions and what nots, and nope, none whatsoever. I personally found the vignette to extreme for my tastes with the baffle on the K1 - even in post process the resulting crop after profile and vignette reduction was huge, so I took the decision to remove the baffle, now the vignette, although still present to a degree its much more correctable in post so it made the modification worth it. -- reverting is simple too.

01-30-2020, 06:01 AM - 1 Like   #5
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After having tested both (and written the article / test for Pentaxforums), I prefer the baffle without the cutout, since vignetting is much less obvious and there is only a subtle difference in sharpness.

I have been selling (at cost) baffles printed by a colleague some time ago, but cannot do that anymore. That being said, there are many 3D printing services everywhere nowadays. In my hometown the public libraries even offer the service for free (you pay the material).
01-30-2020, 07:51 AM   #6
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Thanks both. I think I'll give baffle out a go first but ideally I'd like some baffle in there to keep the lens gubbins safer and not on show.

Bdery, do you still have the file with what the 3D printer would need?

Thanks.
01-30-2020, 02:33 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by bdery Quote
After having tested both (and written the article / test for Pentaxforums), I prefer the baffle without the cutout, since vignetting is much less obvious and there is only a subtle difference in sharpness.

I have been selling (at cost) baffles printed by a colleague some time ago, but cannot do that anymore. That being said, there are many 3D printing services everywhere nowadays. In my hometown the public libraries even offer the service for free (you pay the material).
Thanks! When you say the baffle without the cutout do you mean the blue top right of the attached image that was kindly posted here by Scorpio71GR?

I found this post here:
DA 60-250 replacement baffle - Page 2 - PentaxForums.com
Where Scorpio71GR had shared a STL file via his Google Drive for a baffle design for both the blue baffles.
There is a 3D printing outlet not to far from me I was going to approach with that STL file to see how much they'd charge me to make them both. I did read about dremmelling the lip away but I would rather get something 'as is' that I could just directly swap over.

Thanks in advance

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01-31-2020, 06:25 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gareth Quote
Thanks! When you say the baffle without the cutout do you mean the blue top right of the attached image that was kindly posted here by Scorpio71GR?
Correct.

QuoteOriginally posted by Gareth Quote
Where Scorpio71GR had shared a STL file via his Google Drive for a baffle design for both the blue baffles.
There is a 3D printing outlet not to far from me I was going to approach with that STL file to see how much they'd charge me to make them both. I did read about dremmelling the lip away but I would rather get something 'as is' that I could just directly swap over.
I would not dremel out the flange, if only for resale value.

Have you looked here?

Modifying the DA* 60-250mm F4 for Full Frame - Introduction - In-Depth Articles

My colleague who has a 3D printer made some adjustments to the files, as he believed some machines would have more trouble with the original files. I wouldn't know but the files and procedure are available.
01-31-2020, 08:13 AM - 1 Like   #9
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i did just put a little roll of thicker black paper in place instead of the original baffle. Works great since 2 years now. No problem with reflections at all.
01-31-2020, 10:02 AM - 1 Like   #10
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I had both versions of the baffle printed locally at a 3D print shop - ran $40 for both of them. For me the screws are a bit small to handle (I'll be 70 this year), so I took the lens over to a local camera shop that does repairs. Just received a call from them that they can't do the swap, because the new baffles are larger than the original. I had the baffles printed using the 3D files provided (and at a printer that I had used before while I was still employed prior to my retirement - for some engineering prototype work products for a customer demo). Do I think that there is something wrong with them - NO, they just don't want to do the swap - for whatever reason. I see that they no longer have any Pentax products on their shelves (as if that K5IIs was going to sell any time soon for $800 new in box) - soooooo.....

I guess I need to find someone on the Forum who has done it before and send the lens out.

01-31-2020, 11:57 AM - 1 Like   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by interested_observer Quote
I guess I need to find someone on the Forum who has done it before and send the lens out.
I would be more than happy to do it for you, but it would probably be expensive to ship the lens back and forth. Maybe you have someone in your family able to help?

If the baffle is indeed too tight, simply sanding the outside might work.
01-31-2020, 03:39 PM   #12
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Just to give an update, the 60-250mm arrived today. Gave it a once over and played with the focus and all seems good so I went ahead and removed the baffle. Well that was an easy job and completed super quick!

I know the paper works but for my piece of mind I'd like get another baffle from Pentax and cut the offending bit out so the gubbins are better protected but before I do I just wanted to ask or make sure that re-adding the cylinder minus the lip part of the baffle doesn't affect further vignetteing etc.
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