[Serkevan]

Did you experience lots of lens swapping with that combo?

Not really, I use the 28-105 by default. If 28mm is too tight for a couple shots I just work around it which isn't normally a problem outdoors... I have the 20mm as a "just in case", I mount it if I go indoors or into a more or less confined space where I wouldn't need more than 50mm, then I change again once I'm done: in a couple of fortresses in India I kept it on for more than an hour straight.

I purposefully bought the M20/4 because it's the only UWA I can be bothered to carry with me all the time: a 24/2.8 wouldn't make *that* much of a difference compared to 28mm, and anything wider than the M20 would be too heavy* for something that has a decent chance of not leaving the bag...

*Exceptions being the Tamron or Tokina 17mm, which are larger but not outrageously so... but would cost about the same with noticeably worse IQ.
Another option I considered was the gorgeous 17/4 Fisheye but I wasn't sure about having to spend time to linearize every other shot

[steephill]

One useful tip when choosing a two zoom lens kit is to have them overlap focal length ranges by about a third. That helps to reduce lens changes.

[gatorguy]

I realize most of this discussion involves FF but on APS-c I think the ideal two lens everyday carry would be the Sigma 17-50 2.8 and Pentax 50-135 2.8. There's ample resolution on any of the recent Pentax cameras to 'zoom by crop" for those who need a bit more length but not wanting another lens. If you care less about EQ than reach substitute the 55-300PLM.

[pres589]

There is a Tamron SP 24-135/3.5-5.6. It's not so bad, better than the Sigma 24-135/2.8-5.6. But I'm sure that every D-FA lens is better.

The could of reviews I found via fast searching online does seem to point to the Tamron 24-135 being a pretty decent lens. Pincushion distortion at widest zoom setting seems pretty respectable vs. more modern options available in other systems. Seems to perform pretty well an f-stop short of max aperture. So there's that.

That lens and the old Tamron 17mm SP Adaptall would be a decent kit on full frame. Pretty compact and light as well and not expensive. I have a copy of the 17 and like it on film bodies.

[MrB1]

Wide angle (28mm) stitch without pano head can be difficult , if not, impossible to stitch. It's a lot easier to stitch distant images from a long lens, so in that case an FA 20-40 and 100 macro would be a better kit.[COLOR="Silver"]

All I can add is that, if I don't have a wider lens, it usually works well enough for me. The example, for which it is impossible to move further away from the church, comprised three hand-held portrait shots with the D-FA 28-105 at 28mm, which were easily stitched in Microsoft Image Composite Editor.

Philip

[Serkevan]

One useful tip when choosing a two zoom lens kit is to have them overlap focal length ranges by about a third. That helps to reduce lens changes.

My problem with that approach is that it tends to reduce lens changes... to the point where I just don't bother with the second lens

For outdoors I've stopped carrying the M135/3.5 if the D FA 28-105 is in the bag (or, more often, on the camera) because... you don't get a lot of extra range, and shooting at f/8 I'm not going to notice a lot of difference between a crop of the D FA and a shot from the 135.

I do use that "rule" with the 28-105 + 70-210/4.5 combo - the 70-210 offers an useful range but I only bring it out when I want better portrait bokeh, or if I expect many shots to be taken at 150 mm or longer. I tend to use the tele zoom more often as a standalone option for specific cases. I should look into a 200/2.8 prime at some point...

[normhead]

For outdoors I've stopped carrying the M135/3.5 if the D FA 28-105 is in the bag (or, more often, on the camera) because

Once you get the DFA 28-105 on the camera it's real hard to get it off. The DA 55-300 PLM has become it's companion, just in case but I rarely use it. But usually I take two bodies in a largish bag, 28-105 on the K-1, DA 55-300 or DA*60-250 with the 1.4 TC on it on the K-3,
On my summer trip, I took over 800 images, maybe 20 with the 55-300.It's as much a matter fo opportunity as intention.

[biz-engineer]

The example, for which it is impossible to move further away from the church, comprised three hand-held portrait shots with the D-FA 28-105 at 28mm, which were easily stitched in Microsoft Image Composite Editor.

Yep, thank for showing that example, the stitch here does work because there is no foreground element, say element two meters from the lens at the bottom of the frame. When I use a wide angle lens, my goal is to put emphasis on a foreground element, thanks to the properties a the wide angle lens that magnified object sizes with distance. Try stitch a wide angle image with some rocks in the foreground, and elements of scenery in the middle ground and background, you'll be surprise how much mismatch between frames there is, even with ICE.

[Bui]

I’m a fan of trio kit so I usually travel with a 14mm, 20-40mm and 50-135. Recently picked up an used 15 ltd for a great price so it will probably replace the 14 for travel to make the kit even more compact. If I have to live with only 2 lenses, I will probably replace the 2 limited by the 16-85, which I also own but not use frequently except for hiking. I don’t have a K1 so can’t tell for FF