Originally posted by clackers I'm not still sure you understand the concept, Tibbits.
It's like the frequency response curve of hi-fi for an amplifier, it's an upper bound. What you actually get out depends on your system and the speakers.
The end result, like the JPG, is a different story. A good photographer with a good camera and a good setup will get results someone else on the Internet fails to. And it should be possible to diagnose faults, like decentreing.
If you check out Roger Cicala's blog posts on Lens Rentals, he uses his optical bench to generate MTF curves and lenses can show massive variation between copies. All brands, all price levels - even Canon L series glass, he showed in one post.
Honestly I tend to only look at one thing: edge/corner consistency. So I don't think I would care if my lens resolved a peak 2100 lines vs. somebody else's 2300 or whatever. I can see where not every copy would be exactly the same, but I think in a world of 50-60mp FF sensors, if I can see a difference in copies with my 16mp AA-equipped APS bodies, something is too far off. Of course some lenses are just horrible designs, and that might even include some current Pentax lenses, but the lenses mentioned here are certainly not horrible designs.
I read the LensRentals blog a while ago, and as you say it was very enlightening. I have rented a lens from them: a 60-250. I'd rented it to compare to the one I'd just bought, to decided whether to keep my new one.The LR model hit focus at 0 and my new one was a -10. And honestly the LR model was just slightly crisper all over - but very, very near the limit of what I could tell with 16mp and an AA filter. And as you point out, post-sharpening it was even harder to tell them apart. I always compare raw, although none of us are getting actual "raw" sensor data. Anyway I kept my new lens because I figured the -10 might be able to be fixed, and frankly I'd sent back up to 4 copies each of two other Pentax model lenses just trying to find one that was consistent across the frame .My new -10 lens and the LR copy both were. I think buying a lens and having the first copy be consistent across the frame is almost a miracle.
Oh, the LR copy had completely dead SDM out of the box - I had to play with it quite a bit to get it going, as is the case with SDM sometimes. Otherwise I would have been tempted to buy it and return the new copy, but nobody wants to start with dead SDM.
But there is no way with sharpening or anything else to fix one side being blurry and the other one not, and that's way more of an issue than peak MTF for me. I just bought another new lens a couple of months ago (not a Pentax brand), again stuck in my little world of 16mp and an AA filter. One side is ever so slightly off. I mean really, really slighly off. But I can tell, and I shouldn't be able to. It's even less noticable post-sharpening. As is usually the case, it's only off in that last 10-15% of the frame edge. But I have 16mp and I try to use every one. Anyway I kept the lens because from my unfortunate experiences with other lenses, it was as close to correct as I'd likely get in maybe five or ten copies. Eventually stores do get tired of sending you new copies of the same lenses (believe me, that does happen - I'm sure some of them have my name on a list now.)
Maybe it's just me but when I go to an exhibit of someone's photography - mostly I look at landscapes or other detailed photos - the very first thing I look at is all four corners and check for sharpness. I don't even think about whether I like the picture or not, because I know I could never get past a blurry edge or corner. And sure enough, even in giant enlargements from half a century ago, those corners are almost always solid - I can see really, really impressive sharpness right to the edges. How they did that with the technology of that day is amazing. Maybe they weren't the original image corners - maybe they'd cropped that 4x5 transparency down a bit when making that 16x20 and didn't tell me.But those prints almost never have one side or corrner that's less sharp than the others. So I don't want my otherwise less-impressive pictures to be that way. Everybody complains it's "pixel peeping" to look at a photo at 100%, but that's what you see when you make a reasonably large print from your 16mp image.