Originally posted by jatrax I'm not sure a 135mm lens works if you want a 210mm lens........
But interesting that you can get a decent 4:3 out of that lens on the K-1.
My opinion would be: regardless of whether you can make the 50-135 work acceptably it is still only a 135mm lens so not (IMHO) a substitute for a 200mm range lens. I would rather have either the DA*60-250 or the DFA 70-210.
Thanks John, Yes I agree, it's not a 200mm (equivalent), but it's a decent zoom from 50-135 at 4:3, but I was pleasantly surprised at what could be achieved using it this way. I'll play around with it over the uninteresting summer (=heavy, dull greens in the UK) and see what I think in the autumn. Then maybe, I'll get the 70-210. I rather balk at the idea of "wasting" the 50-135. It's a great lens, but the DR on the k-3 is much less than the K-1 and if I want to be in walkabout mode with the K-3 I'll take the 55-300 plm.
---------- Post added 06-26-20 at 08:18 AM ----------
Originally posted by chochichaeschtli I have a 50-135 and a 60-250 an use both frequently on the k-1. The 50-135 only in crop mode and due to size and weight mainly, and i think the fact that you can see more than the actual apsc picture (rectangle) in the viewfinder really helpful for composition, especially for tele lenses.
At 135, it covers almost fullframe, but then i rather just not zoom as much and stay crop. Thats the main difference: the 60-250 is rather ff at the short end and sort of offers a wider zoom range if you are happy with apsc resolution: 60-350 equiv vs 70-200 equiv; if you believe in crop factor equivalence
Anyway, both still great lenses
and for me tele was never the reason to get ff.
Many thanks. I agree the extra in the viewfinder in cropped mode is helpful compositionally, this advantage was new to me. I wonder if any camera has this option in its full viewfinder...?
As I say to John above, the crop factor equivalence I suppose, believing in it or not
. The experiment was to not waste the 50-135 and to see what I could get out of it on FF. I used to rather obsess with getting the best quality image from my gear when I was selling landscape prints, now it's rather refreshing trying to use older equipment to squeeze more life out of it and not bothering with the getting the best possible quality.
---------- Post added 06-26-20 at 08:27 AM ----------
Originally posted by mikesbike I would say just use the DA* 50-135mm in crop mode- you'd still have the K-1's DR. or consider getting a KP, which has better DR and low light capability than the K-3, and then use the DA* 50-135mm on it, saving a lot of size and weight over the K-1 with the DFA 70-210. Then the K-1 when in the WA- to less tele range like the DFA 24-70mm would be fine and easier-handling, and that lens does well with either body.
The K-1 and KP as a complementary duo is not uncommon from what I've seen.
Thanks Mike. probably don't need another camera
However, your reasoning is sound. You did make me think about pairing the DFA 24-70 with the K-3. I'd been getting a few real estate commissions prior to Covid and I'd been keeping the 24-70 safe for that work. I'm re-assessing whether I want to continue this work now - PPE and no conversations with clients etc makes it rather grim - I don't need that , so I'm thinking about different gear usage, thus the 50-135 ...