Recommended Filter

**jatrax** · 09-29-2020, 09:54 AM - **1 Like**

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Hoya Pro1 multi-coat is considered a good filter. Recommend you buy a lens hood for that lens as well if you don't have one. It does help remove glare and actually improves your images whereas even the best filter will degrade the image to some degree, noticeable or not.

Spock · 09-29-2020, 08:05 PM

Originally posted by marlinh

Hoya 52mm (DMC) Digital Multi-Coated Pro1 UV Filter: Amazon.ca: Electronics

What about this option here in Canada?

DMC (Digital Multi Coating) is, from what I can tell, the same as their previous 'HMC' (Hoya Multi Coating) -ie. their budget filter. (The name just changed for marketing reasons). The Super HMC is visibly better with reflections when you have them side by side.

---------- Post added 09-30-2020 at 11:06 AM ----------

Originally posted by jatrax

Hoya Pro1 multi-coat is considered a good filter. Recommend you buy a lens hood for that lens as well if you don't have one. It does help remove glare and actually improves your images whereas even the best filter will degrade the image to some degree, noticeable or not.

Pro-1 just refers to a thinner filter. You can get pro-1 versions of their HMC, DMC and Super HMC filters.

m42man · 09-29-2020, 10:44 PM

Originally posted by marlinh

Hoya 52mm (DMC) Digital Multi-Coated Pro1 UV Filter: Amazon.ca: Electronics

What about this option here in Canada?

I think this is overkill - a lesser (multicoated) Hoya or Marumi would be appropriate for the DA50-200.

Remember to choose the vendor with care.

**ProfessorBuzz** · 09-30-2020, 09:46 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by SharkyCA

Interesting why Pentax has a notch in their lens hoods so you can turn the filter without removing the hood!

This is for use with polarizers or variable ND filters, so you can dial in the polarization or density.

---------- Post added 09-30-20 at 09:49 AM ----------

I've had good success with the Hoya Fusion Antistatic protectors. Dust and dirt doesnt stick, just blows off. They're also better at handling oils (fingerprints) and condensation than the Pro1 and HMC versions. Coatings are so good, you can't really tell it is there.

SharkyCA · 09-30-2020, 03:17 PM

Originally posted by ProfessorBuzz

This is for use with polarizers or variable ND filters, so you can dial in the polarization or density.

---------- Post added 09-30-20 at 09:49 AM ----------

I've had good success with the Hoya Fusion Antistatic protectors. Dust and dirt doesnt stick, just blows off. They're also better at handling oils (fingerprints) and condensation than the Pro1 and HMC versions. Coatings are so good, you can't really tell it is there.

Recently had a lens fall, took out my CP filter but it saved the lens, glad it was on and gave protection.

tibbitts · 10-07-2020, 08:46 PM

I'm not sure what other people's experiences are but the newest filter (and lens, I'm sure) coatings do seem easier to clean than some older coatings - less likely to smudge and streak. However assuming you have the OEM hood for your lens, it's pretty deep, making it less likely you'll need to clean a filter than on a wide-angle, for example.

Wheatfield · 10-08-2020, 10:06 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by marlinh

Hi everyone,

I am new to this site and dslr cameras. I ordered a 50 -200mm lens for my KX and want to make sure it stays protected. What kind of filter should I get that can stay on at all times and accept other filters as required? I don't know whether to get a UV or clear. Thanks for your advice.

Forget the filter and use a lens hood. I haven't had a UV/ "protective" filter on a lens in something like 35 years and have never damaged a front element.
Were I photographing in a salt water environment or a sandstorm I would consider a filter for those occasions, but otherwise, no filter.
I ALWAYS have a lens hood on though.

**rogerstg** · 10-09-2020, 06:55 AM

Originally posted by Wheatfield

Forget the filter and use a lens hood. I haven't had a UV/ "protective" filter on a lens in something like 35 years and have never damaged a front element.

Agreed. Of course there will be people that have had impacts that damaged their filters who (mistakenly) think that the filter "saved" the lens. There are video demonstrations that show just how fragile a filter is compared to a front element. They further found that the amount of impact required to actually damage the front element usually exceeded the amount of impact that would render the lens functionally inoperable. IOW, the lens will no longer focus or zoom before the front element is damaged.

At best, a protection filter might save a $40 repair to the lens filter threads after a minor bump. Something a hood would have averted.

marlinh · 10-09-2020, 08:19 AM

Interesting variety of responses for a seemingly simple question. Lots of information to consider. Thank you for everyone's input.

Wheatfield · 10-09-2020, 08:54 AM

Originally posted by marlinh

Interesting variety of responses for a seemingly simple question. Lots of information to consider. Thank you for everyone's input.

Simple questions are often a lot more complicated than they initially appear to be.

nicolpa47 · 10-09-2020, 09:11 AM - **1 Like**

I understand both sides of the filter/no filter argument. All I can say is that I prefer removing the amount of salt spray I sometimes find on my filters from those filters rather than from the front element of my lenses. The answer to the question depends in my view upon the conditions in which you take your images.

Wheatfield · 10-09-2020, 09:46 AM

Originally posted by nicolpa47

I understand both sides of the filter/no filter argument. All I can say is that I prefer removing the amount of salt spray I sometimes find on my filters from those filters rather than from the front element of my lenses. The answer to the question depends in my view upon the conditions in which you take your images.

Filters pros: Generally theoretical at best protection for the front element, occasional real protection for the lens.
Filters cons: Always some image degradation caused by the filter. Cheap filters are worse than expensive ones in this regard, but degradation of the image is unavoidable. This can include loss of resolution, loss of contrast and increased flare.

Lens hoods pros: Generally real protection for the front of the lens including the front element except for very specific instances which the photographer may not ever come across.
No image degradation from extra glass that my not be plano parallel or especially flare resistant (cheap filters). Flare protection rather than flare production.

Lens hood cons: I can't think of a single one.
I suppose on a very windy day the hood may give the wind more surface to catch increasing the potential for camera shake, but this is a bit of a stretch.

**jumbleview** · 10-09-2020, 01:20 PM

Originally posted by Wheatfield

Lens hood cons: I can't think of a single one.

I can name two:

If you lose/ break one you have to buy another and it takes some money.
It takes some space.

---------- Post added 10-09-20 at 01:23 PM ----------

Originally posted by marlinh

Interesting variety of responses for a seemingly simple question. Lots of information to consider. Thank you for everyone's input.

That's nothing. Next time ask question which is better: fixed screen on articulated screen. You'll see what's coming!

Wheatfield · 10-09-2020, 03:22 PM

Originally posted by jumbleview

I can name two:[LIST][*]If you lose/ break one you have to buy another and it takes some money.[*]It takes some space.

I guess the same can be said about filters.

m42man · 10-10-2020, 04:29 AM - **1 Like**

I think a protection filter gives you peace of mind. Plus, I defy anyone to be able to pixel-peep any difference between an excellent lens with and without an excellent filter - or a DA50-200 with and without a good filter.

Exception would be night-time shots with bright lights, when flare may well be a problem. Just remove the filter.

10-07-2020, 08:46 PM	#21
tibbitts Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Oklahoma USA Posts: 2,193	I'm not sure what other people's experiences are but the newest filter (and lens, I'm sure) coatings do seem easier to clean than some older coatings - less likely to smudge and streak. However assuming you have the OEM hood for your lens, it's pretty deep, making it less likely you'll need to clean a filter than on a wide-angle, for example. Last edited by tibbitts; 10-07-2020 at 08:51 PM.

10-09-2020, 01:20 PM	#28
jumbleview Site Supporter Join Date: May 2012 Location: Concord, CA Posts: 1,067	Originally posted by Wheatfield Lens hood cons: I can't think of a single one. I can name two: If you lose/ break one you have to buy another and it takes some money. It takes some space. ---------- Post added 10-09-20 at 01:23 PM ---------- Originally posted by marlinh Interesting variety of responses for a seemingly simple question. Lots of information to consider. Thank you for everyone's input. That's nothing. Next time ask question which is better: fixed screen on articulated screen. You'll see what's coming!

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09-29-2020, 09:54 AM - 1 Like	#16
jatrax Site Supporter Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington Cascades Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,991	Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here. Hoya Pro1 multi-coat is considered a good filter. Recommend you buy a lens hood for that lens as well if you don't have one. It does help remove glare and actually improves your images whereas even the best filter will degrade the image to some degree, noticeable or not.

09-29-2020, 08:05 PM	#17
Spock Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Perth, Western Australia Photos: Albums Posts: 673	Originally posted by marlinh Hoya 52mm (DMC) Digital Multi-Coated Pro1 UV Filter: Amazon.ca: Electronics What about this option here in Canada? DMC (Digital Multi Coating) is, from what I can tell, the same as their previous 'HMC' (Hoya Multi Coating) -ie. their budget filter. (The name just changed for marketing reasons). The Super HMC is visibly better with reflections when you have them side by side. ---------- Post added 09-30-2020 at 11:06 AM ---------- Originally posted by jatrax Hoya Pro1 multi-coat is considered a good filter. Recommend you buy a lens hood for that lens as well if you don't have one. It does help remove glare and actually improves your images whereas even the best filter will degrade the image to some degree, noticeable or not. Pro-1 just refers to a thinner filter. You can get pro-1 versions of their HMC, DMC and Super HMC filters.

09-29-2020, 10:44 PM	#18
m42man Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Southern England Posts: 623	Originally posted by marlinh Hoya 52mm (DMC) Digital Multi-Coated Pro1 UV Filter: Amazon.ca: Electronics What about this option here in Canada? I think this is overkill - a lesser (multicoated) Hoya or Marumi would be appropriate for the DA50-200. Remember to choose the vendor with care.

09-30-2020, 09:46 AM - 1 Like	#19
ProfessorBuzz Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2018 Posts: 1,903	Originally posted by SharkyCA Interesting why Pentax has a notch in their lens hoods so you can turn the filter without removing the hood! This is for use with polarizers or variable ND filters, so you can dial in the polarization or density. ---------- Post added 09-30-20 at 09:49 AM ---------- I've had good success with the Hoya Fusion Antistatic protectors. Dust and dirt doesnt stick, just blows off. They're also better at handling oils (fingerprints) and condensation than the Pro1 and HMC versions. Coatings are so good, you can't really tell it is there.

09-30-2020, 03:17 PM	#20
SharkyCA Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario, Canada Photos: Gallery Posts: 806	Originally posted by ProfessorBuzz This is for use with polarizers or variable ND filters, so you can dial in the polarization or density. ---------- Post added 09-30-20 at 09:49 AM ---------- I've had good success with the Hoya Fusion Antistatic protectors. Dust and dirt doesnt stick, just blows off. They're also better at handling oils (fingerprints) and condensation than the Pro1 and HMC versions. Coatings are so good, you can't really tell it is there. Recently had a lens fall, took out my CP filter but it saved the lens, glad it was on and gave protection.

10-08-2020, 10:06 AM - 1 Like	#22
Wheatfield Moderator Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: The wheatfields of Canada Posts: 15,975	Originally posted by marlinh Hi everyone, I am new to this site and dslr cameras. I ordered a 50 -200mm lens for my KX and want to make sure it stays protected. What kind of filter should I get that can stay on at all times and accept other filters as required? I don't know whether to get a UV or clear. Thanks for your advice. Forget the filter and use a lens hood. I haven't had a UV/ "protective" filter on a lens in something like 35 years and have never damaged a front element. Were I photographing in a salt water environment or a sandstorm I would consider a filter for those occasions, but otherwise, no filter. I ALWAYS have a lens hood on though.

10-09-2020, 06:55 AM	#23
rogerstg Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Rhode Island Photos: Albums Posts: 1,168	Originally posted by Wheatfield Forget the filter and use a lens hood. I haven't had a UV/ "protective" filter on a lens in something like 35 years and have never damaged a front element. Agreed. Of course there will be people that have had impacts that damaged their filters who (mistakenly) think that the filter "saved" the lens. There are video demonstrations that show just how fragile a filter is compared to a front element. They further found that the amount of impact required to actually damage the front element usually exceeded the amount of impact that would render the lens functionally inoperable. IOW, the lens will no longer focus or zoom before the front element is damaged. At best, a protection filter might save a $40 repair to the lens filter threads after a minor bump. Something a hood would have averted.

10-09-2020, 08:19 AM	#24
marlinh New Member Join Date: Sep 2020 Posts: 12 Original Poster	Interesting variety of responses for a seemingly simple question. Lots of information to consider. Thank you for everyone's input.

10-09-2020, 08:54 AM	#25
Wheatfield Moderator Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: The wheatfields of Canada Posts: 15,975	Originally posted by marlinh Interesting variety of responses for a seemingly simple question. Lots of information to consider. Thank you for everyone's input. Simple questions are often a lot more complicated than they initially appear to be.

10-09-2020, 09:11 AM - 1 Like	#26
nicolpa47 Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2016 Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,031	I understand both sides of the filter/no filter argument. All I can say is that I prefer removing the amount of salt spray I sometimes find on my filters from those filters rather than from the front element of my lenses. The answer to the question depends in my view upon the conditions in which you take your images.

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10-09-2020, 09:46 AM	#27
Wheatfield Moderator Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: The wheatfields of Canada Posts: 15,975	Originally posted by nicolpa47 I understand both sides of the filter/no filter argument. All I can say is that I prefer removing the amount of salt spray I sometimes find on my filters from those filters rather than from the front element of my lenses. The answer to the question depends in my view upon the conditions in which you take your images. Filters pros: Generally theoretical at best protection for the front element, occasional real protection for the lens. Filters cons: Always some image degradation caused by the filter. Cheap filters are worse than expensive ones in this regard, but degradation of the image is unavoidable. This can include loss of resolution, loss of contrast and increased flare. Lens hoods pros: Generally real protection for the front of the lens including the front element except for very specific instances which the photographer may not ever come across. No image degradation from extra glass that my not be plano parallel or especially flare resistant (cheap filters). Flare protection rather than flare production. Lens hood cons: I can't think of a single one. I suppose on a very windy day the hood may give the wind more surface to catch increasing the potential for camera shake, but this is a bit of a stretch.

10-09-2020, 03:22 PM	#29
Wheatfield Moderator Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: The wheatfields of Canada Posts: 15,975	Originally posted by jumbleview I can name two:[LIST][]If you lose/ break one you have to buy another and it takes some money.[]It takes some space. I guess the same can be said about filters.

10-10-2020, 04:29 AM - 1 Like	#30
m42man Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Southern England Posts: 623	I think a protection filter gives you peace of mind. Plus, I defy anyone to be able to pixel-peep any difference between an excellent lens with and without an excellent filter - or a DA50-200 with and without a good filter. Exception would be night-time shots with bright lights, when flare may well be a problem. Just remove the filter.