Tele converter for a Pentax K1 mk2.

**Phil Thomson IPA** · 10-09-2020, 02:10 AM

Hello,

I have a Pentax K1 mk2 and a 150-450 tele zoom lens and was just wondering if there is a tele converter that can be used with it. I have been asked by the owner of a winery where there are documented 150+ species of birds, to try and get some good shots of some of the birds for him. I do also have a 70-200mm lens if there are stronger converters available.
I am just not getting close enough to get good shots of them even with that lens and thus only producing very small image files by cropping into severely the subject to make any sort of picture.

I am in Victoria, Australia and would prefer if there is a suitable converter to be able to buy it here in Australia. But am prepared to buy internationally online if it is available overseas.

Ole · 10-09-2020, 02:39 AM - **1 Like**

You can use the DA 1.4x AW AF converter in APS-C mode. This will retain autofocus. That will give quite some reach, but at the reduced APS-C resolution , of course.

Per the Ricoh web site the full-frame converters A 1.4X-S and A 2X-S are compatible. They don't support auto focus, though. I'd suspect that the 2x converter will not work well due to the 2 stop light loss.

The hard-to-find Tamron 1.4x teleconverter is full frame and supports AF. I have one and it works rather well. But I have not tried it with the 150-450 zoom, so I cannot speak for that combo. But check the reviews in the link, some members have actually used it with the 150-450.

Sandy Hancock · 10-09-2020, 02:51 AM - **2 Likes**

I would strongly suggest investing in a crop body. You don't lose a stop of light with it, there is zero optical degradation and you maintain the weather resistance of the lens.

I use my DFA150-450 much more on my KP than I do on my K-1 Mark II.

**GUB** · 10-09-2020, 03:24 AM

Originally posted by Sandy Hancock

I would strongly suggest investing in a crop body. You don't lose a stop of light with it, there is zero optical degradation and you maintain the weather resistance of the lens.

I use my DFA150-450 much more on my KP than I do on my K-1 Mark II.

Or more to the point be prepared to crop your K-1 image to apsc or more size.

**aslyfox** · 10-09-2020, 03:50 AM

I agree that the best solution might be if the OP can find an affordable " experienced " K 3 or K 3 II

look at

Maximum FPS

Continuous Shooting

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-cameras-compared/?c1=Pentax%20K-1...tax%20K-3%20II

and the mp of the K 1 family if used in crop mode

15-megapixel crop mode

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-cameras-compared/?c1=Pentax+K-1+I...&c4=Pentax+K-3

vs K 3 family

Megapixels
24.35

https://www.pentaxforums.com/camerareviews/pentax-k-3-ii.html

noelpolar · 10-09-2020, 03:57 AM - **6 Likes**

I use my K1 quite a bit with my DFA 150-450.... generally..... you need to develop technique to get close or.... to ensure an interesting shot ..... get some relevant context into the shot... ie winery bits....

For some birds.... consider a phone app like "Birds of Australia".... once the bird is identified you can select it in the app and play recorded calls.... some birds respond really well.....

maybe... too well...

I placed the phone at the base of a open'ish tree for this shot.... got myself about 2 meters away.... chose spot so light and background was best.... lens on mono pod so little movement to scare bird away as it explored the "new bird" invading it's turf... K1 shot...

Anyway.... sounds like a fun project... good luck.... I found little difference between a K3 and K1 in useful image magnification.... that made or broke a shot..... so sold my K3.... and focused back on getting close... one way or another.... I consider success about 8 to 10 good mega-pixles or more in a small bird frame.... if printing might be needed.... 4 or more for social media stuff.

I assume you shoot raw and have good editing skills....

SSGGeezer · 10-09-2020, 03:59 AM

Also most Teleconverters don't usually play as well with zoom lenses. Your experience may vary, but that has been mine. I would recommend working on your patience and or stalking skills if the DFA 150-450 isn't long enough. Especially if it is the case with an APSC camera, if you choose to buy one and go that route.

Adam007 · 10-09-2020, 04:53 AM

The 1.4 TC works very well with the 150-450. There is some vignetting, which is completely eliminated by shooting in the square format. I don't tend to do that, because I want the FPS of crop mode, but I mention that to illustrate what you can expect.

I found a good deal on a used TC. It does make focus less consistent, which is irritating. And Pentax is allegedly coming out with a FF TC soon. However, if you can't wait, or find a good price on the current TC, you will be fine with this setup.

Paul the Sunman · 10-09-2020, 05:42 AM - **3 Likes**

I shoot with the K1 + DFA 150-450 quite a lot, but for birds I often use the K3 instead, for the added reach. Works for me. The KP would be even better.

Or this album.

**UncleVanya** · 10-09-2020, 06:13 AM

Originally posted by GUB

Or more to the point be prepared to crop your K-1 image to apsc or more size.

The crop sensors with 24mp put more resolution on the target, which in good light should give more effective reach than merely using the crop mode of the K-1.

Note: I'm only stating facts without direct experience here. I don't currently have a K1 and I'm not a birder. But I respect Sandy's experience in this and wanted to add technical clarity to the discussion.

**UncleVanya** · 10-09-2020, 06:18 AM

Another option is the AFA F 1.7X from the film era. This provides a limited autofocus range with manual focus or autofocus lenses. It takes two stops of light but gives 1.7x magnification.

This coupled with the 150-450 may be a stretch for the focusing system however. I've used it effectively with my fa* 300 f4.5 but that's faster than the long end of the 150-450.

Some faster prime telephoto lenses could be combined with the 1.7x. The A* 400 f2.8 for example, or the F* 600 f4... But these are incredibly pricy and very large and heavy.

A small portable blind and patience may yeild the best results...

**marcusBMG** · 10-09-2020, 06:59 AM

I have played with several tc's on my 150-450mm see here.
Overall I can say that iq held up well with all of them, differences were slight (off the cuff the kenko was the best of the 3rd party ones, the 1.53x teleplus slightly the weakest) reflecting that it is the base lens that is the most important factor. But in practice I rarely use the a tc with this lens.

**Lowell Goudge** · 10-09-2020, 08:05 AM

if you are looking to start with birds, go out with what you have presently and start shooting. i use regularly 2 different set ups, and note, for me, (perhaps you will be different) 16 MP is sufficient for birds if you are close enough, therefore you can crop the middle out of your K1 shots with the lens you have presently and the results will be stunning.

i use and have used and posted often with the SIGMA APO EX 70-200/2.8 and Sigma 2x TC (140-400MM f5.6 EQUIVELENT) and the shots are very good on my k5 even cropped, so do not be afraid to crop,

my new option is the K1 MK2 with the DA560mm which is amazing, but i think you can start with the 150-450.

even 6 MP is enough if you fill the frame, look at this shot

this was shot with an *istD and the SMC K300/4 plus 1.7x AF converter (500 mm equivalent) i used flash to freeze the image, but clearly less than 6 MP is enough so you can crop out of the middle of your K1 MK2 quite a bit

**UncleVanya** · 10-09-2020, 11:04 AM

A good point to bring up is that you can add fill flash with the right flash extender to help some with the high f stop - you still won't want to overpower the natural light too much but it could help freeze the bird and give better lighting.

**clickclick** · 10-09-2020, 11:43 AM

I have the DFA 150-450, 1.7x AF, 1.4x TC, K-1 II and K-3 II. If I'm chasing birds, I find I do best with the K-3 II and then cropping. Better burst shooting and fps on the K-3 II - can't tell you the number of times I've saturated the buffer on my K-1 II, the pixel density on the K-3 II gives me more to work with when cropping, and you get the APS-C 1.5X "multiplier" without loosing any light. As much as I love my K-1 II, it's just not my choice for birding.

10-09-2020, 02:10 AM	#1
Phil Thomson IPA Site Supporter Join Date: May 2011 Location: Geelong Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 89	Tele converter for a Pentax K1 mk2. Hello, I have a Pentax K1 mk2 and a 150-450 tele zoom lens and was just wondering if there is a tele converter that can be used with it. I have been asked by the owner of a winery where there are documented 150+ species of birds, to try and get some good shots of some of the birds for him. I do also have a 70-200mm lens if there are stronger converters available. I am just not getting close enough to get good shots of them even with that lens and thus only producing very small image files by cropping into severely the subject to make any sort of picture. I am in Victoria, Australia and would prefer if there is a suitable converter to be able to buy it here in Australia. But am prepared to buy internationally online if it is available overseas.

10-09-2020, 03:50 AM	#5
aslyfox Seeker of Knowledge Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Topeka, Kansas Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 24,579	I agree that the best solution might be if the OP can find an affordable " experienced " K 3 or K 3 II look at Maximum FPS Continuous Shooting https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-cameras-compared/?c1=Pentax%20K-1...tax%20K-3%20II and the mp of the K 1 family if used in crop mode 15-megapixel crop mode https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-cameras-compared/?c1=Pentax+K-1+I...&c4=Pentax+K-3 vs K 3 family Megapixels 24.35 https://www.pentaxforums.com/camerareviews/pentax-k-3-ii.html Last edited by aslyfox; 10-09-2020 at 04:09 AM.

10-09-2020, 03:57 AM - 6 Likes	#6
noelpolar Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Goolwa, SA Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,310	I use my K1 quite a bit with my DFA 150-450.... generally..... you need to develop technique to get close or.... to ensure an interesting shot ..... get some relevant context into the shot... ie winery bits.... For some birds.... consider a phone app like "Birds of Australia".... once the bird is identified you can select it in the app and play recorded calls.... some birds respond really well..... maybe... too well... I placed the phone at the base of a open'ish tree for this shot.... got myself about 2 meters away.... chose spot so light and background was best.... lens on mono pod so little movement to scare bird away as it explored the "new bird" invading it's turf... K1 shot... Anyway.... sounds like a fun project... good luck.... I found little difference between a K3 and K1 in useful image magnification.... that made or broke a shot..... so sold my K3.... and focused back on getting close... one way or another.... I consider success about 8 to 10 good mega-pixles or more in a small bird frame.... if printing might be needed.... 4 or more for social media stuff. I assume you shoot raw and have good editing skills.... Last edited by noelpolar; 10-09-2020 at 04:33 AM.

10-09-2020, 06:18 AM	#11
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,384	Another option is the AFA F 1.7X from the film era. This provides a limited autofocus range with manual focus or autofocus lenses. It takes two stops of light but gives 1.7x magnification. This coupled with the 150-450 may be a stretch for the focusing system however. I've used it effectively with my fa* 300 f4.5 but that's faster than the long end of the 150-450. Some faster prime telephoto lenses could be combined with the 1.7x. The A* 400 f2.8 for example, or the F* 600 f4... But these are incredibly pricy and very large and heavy. A small portable blind and patience may yeild the best results... Last edited by UncleVanya; 10-09-2020 at 06:23 AM.

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10-09-2020, 02:39 AM - 1 Like	#2
Ole Administrator Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,408	You can use the DA 1.4x AW AF converter in APS-C mode. This will retain autofocus. That will give quite some reach, but at the reduced APS-C resolution , of course. Per the Ricoh web site the full-frame converters A 1.4X-S and A 2X-S are compatible. They don't support auto focus, though. I'd suspect that the 2x converter will not work well due to the 2 stop light loss. The hard-to-find Tamron 1.4x teleconverter is full frame and supports AF. I have one and it works rather well. But I have not tried it with the 150-450 zoom, so I cannot speak for that combo. But check the reviews in the link, some members have actually used it with the 150-450.

10-09-2020, 02:51 AM - 2 Likes	#3
Sandy Hancock Moderator Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Adelaide Hills, South Australia Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 11,267	I would strongly suggest investing in a crop body. You don't lose a stop of light with it, there is zero optical degradation and you maintain the weather resistance of the lens. I use my DFA150-450 much more on my KP than I do on my K-1 Mark II.

10-09-2020, 03:24 AM	#4
GUB Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Wanganui Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,751	Originally posted by Sandy Hancock I would strongly suggest investing in a crop body. You don't lose a stop of light with it, there is zero optical degradation and you maintain the weather resistance of the lens. I use my DFA150-450 much more on my KP than I do on my K-1 Mark II. Or more to the point be prepared to crop your K-1 image to apsc or more size.

10-09-2020, 03:59 AM	#7
SSGGeezer Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Indiana, U.S. Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,845	Also most Teleconverters don't usually play as well with zoom lenses. Your experience may vary, but that has been mine. I would recommend working on your patience and or stalking skills if the DFA 150-450 isn't long enough. Especially if it is the case with an APSC camera, if you choose to buy one and go that route.

10-09-2020, 04:53 AM	#8
Adam007 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 35	The 1.4 TC works very well with the 150-450. There is some vignetting, which is completely eliminated by shooting in the square format. I don't tend to do that, because I want the FPS of crop mode, but I mention that to illustrate what you can expect. I found a good deal on a used TC. It does make focus less consistent, which is irritating. And Pentax is allegedly coming out with a FF TC soon. However, if you can't wait, or find a good price on the current TC, you will be fine with this setup.

10-09-2020, 05:42 AM - 3 Likes	#9
Paul the Sunman Pentaxian Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Melbourne Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,842	I shoot with the K1 + DFA 150-450 quite a lot, but for birds I often use the K3 instead, for the added reach. Works for me. The KP would be even better. Or this album.

10-09-2020, 06:13 AM	#10
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,384	Originally posted by GUB Or more to the point be prepared to crop your K-1 image to apsc or more size. The crop sensors with 24mp put more resolution on the target, which in good light should give more effective reach than merely using the crop mode of the K-1. Note: I'm only stating facts without direct experience here. I don't currently have a K1 and I'm not a birder. But I respect Sandy's experience in this and wanted to add technical clarity to the discussion.

10-09-2020, 06:59 AM	#12
marcusBMG Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: North Wales Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,868	I have played with several tc's on my 150-450mm see here. Overall I can say that iq held up well with all of them, differences were slight (off the cuff the kenko was the best of the 3rd party ones, the 1.53x teleplus slightly the weakest) reflecting that it is the base lens that is the most important factor. But in practice I rarely use the a tc with this lens.

10-09-2020, 08:05 AM	#13
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,886	if you are looking to start with birds, go out with what you have presently and start shooting. i use regularly 2 different set ups, and note, for me, (perhaps you will be different) 16 MP is sufficient for birds if you are close enough, therefore you can crop the middle out of your K1 shots with the lens you have presently and the results will be stunning. i use and have used and posted often with the SIGMA APO EX 70-200/2.8 and Sigma 2x TC (140-400MM f5.6 EQUIVELENT) and the shots are very good on my k5 even cropped, so do not be afraid to crop, my new option is the K1 MK2 with the DA560mm which is amazing, but i think you can start with the 150-450. even 6 MP is enough if you fill the frame, look at this shot this was shot with an *istD and the SMC K300/4 plus 1.7x AF converter (500 mm equivalent) i used flash to freeze the image, but clearly less than 6 MP is enough so you can crop out of the middle of your K1 MK2 quite a bit

10-09-2020, 11:04 AM	#14
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,384	A good point to bring up is that you can add fill flash with the right flash extender to help some with the high f stop - you still won't want to overpower the natural light too much but it could help freeze the bird and give better lighting.

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10-09-2020, 11:43 AM	#15
clickclick Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: May 2016 Location: East Coast Posts: 2,903	I have the DFA 150-450, 1.7x AF, 1.4x TC, K-1 II and K-3 II. If I'm chasing birds, I find I do best with the K-3 II and then cropping. Better burst shooting and fps on the K-3 II - can't tell you the number of times I've saturated the buffer on my K-1 II, the pixel density on the K-3 II gives me more to work with when cropping, and you get the APS-C 1.5X "multiplier" without loosing any light. As much as I love my K-1 II, it's just not my choice for birding.