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05-21-2021, 09:39 AM   #31
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The blur is because your shutter speed ends up being too low. Come on, you have a K-1II, crank that ISO up to 6400 and keep it there. Or even higher. It's better to have a shot with a little bit of noise (which you can clean up anyway) than a blurry one (which you can't fix). You have shots at 300mm and 1/10s which even if you are on a tripod, will show blur due to movement. You need at least 1/100s even with IBIS for a better chance at decent pictures.

If you can swing for a 70-200mm f/2.8 do it. Or at least the 60-250 f4 (I find you do need a zoom in these kind of settings).

05-21-2021, 10:48 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by mtgmansf Quote
Only the wide shot looks truly sharp to me and so I would test both lenses for autofocus and only use the one that is sharp, especially at the long end. You may have a auto-focus accuracy issue, but probably only with one of your two lenses. Looking at your photos, they seem to either miss on focus and/or have some motion blur. For those reasons, I would use at least one, maybe two if possible, faster speeds and ignore trying to use a better, lower iso setting. It is much easier to use a good noise reduction program (preferably on raw files) than trying to sharpen up or use motion blur correction in PS or other later. Some come with a free trial for 30 days. I personally use Topaz, but there are several that are also good. However, I think the K1 mk. 2 is probably very good up to 3200 and probably good with a top noise reduction program to 12800 or at least 6400. Lastly, I would turn off auto white balance and use the artificial light setting so that you achieve consistant white balance for all your images....
Yeah the tamron isn’t the greatest past 200 which is the one I used the most and probably will have to use tonight due to the reach. But maybe I can get close enough who knows it’s a large amphitheater…

JJ
05-21-2021, 01:35 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by jerryleejr Quote
it’s a large amphitheater…
Same here- the last, a friend's graduation was in 2011, and in a huge indoor arena. Furthermore, through a team-mate's connection, we were in a fancy exec suite with its very large windows but also its own balcony. There were seats inside and outside. This put me way up at the farthest distance, but sideways to the stage. Normally, at HS graduations, where I could shoot from a much closer position, I would just take a superzoom and use flash. But for this situation I took some big guns, with faster aperture capability. I also took a powerful hot shoe flash unit. Luckily, I was on the side of the stage where the graduates would be crossing facing me. I had plenty of time to do test shots, as there were several university officers, etc. giving speeches first. I had my DA* 50-135mm, DA* 200mm, and FA* 300mm f/4.5 along, and my DA 18-135mm superzoom for family shots after the event, which worked out beautifully. I used the DA* 50-135mm first with flash as the graduates filed in at closest range. Then, based on my test shots, I found my DA* 200mm best for framing the stage activity. I got some good shots of my subject using my biggest flash, all the way across on the other side while waiting in the shadows to go up onto the stage, boosting ISO to 800, and the lens wide open. But for the actual stage shots, the lighting was like spot lights but more of them, and quite bright. So then no flash, and I could use a smaller aperture. In addition to being handed the diploma, I nailed the very moment of handshake with the dean just after receiving the diploma, facial-expression and all- a good closeup of them with a bit of surrounding context. All this from sitting high up in a seat on our balcony. The family was thrilled.

But you "might" be able to move around some, which can allow more options as to equipment. Best to try some test shots if you can, to determine your best position. In my case, there was a pro photographer with his setup in advance, so I knew which way the show would be moving. I also advise using a FL that will give you extra room around your actual framing, in other words, frame your shot with just a bit more room than you need, and then crop a little in PP to determine the best composition.

Last edited by mikesbike; 05-21-2021 at 01:41 PM.
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