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03-19-2022, 12:56 PM - 2 Likes   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by just_another_gymbro Quote
Great pics!

I think since it'll mostly be indoor shooting I'll look for the non-WR FA/DFA version.
This is exactly the version I have (non-WR). It has an aperture ring and can be used with older film models. The latest WR version was issued about 1 year after I acquired mine. I love this lens.



03-19-2022, 03:21 PM - 1 Like   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by just_another_gymbro Quote
3. I have read on the 100mm that it has good portrait performance. Is it good enough for both portraits and DSLR scanning?
YES!

As others have suggested, that would be a great lens for your needs. For DSLR scanning, the lens and your KP camera will probably out-resolve your film.
03-19-2022, 04:00 PM - 3 Likes   #18
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Thank you to everyone!!!!

I wanted to thank everyone who replied giving me advice! Extremely helpful and invaluable information.

Looking forward to posting more on this forum

I'm going to go ahead and start looking for a used 100mm macro
03-19-2022, 07:43 PM   #19
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I would also suggest the Tamron SP AF 90mm Macro for macro/portraits, reviews here: Tamron SP AF 90mm F2.8 Di Macro (272E) Lens Reviews - Tamron Lenses - Pentax Lens Review Database

Mpb has one for under $200 here: https://www.mpb.com/en-us/used-equipment/used-photo-and-video/used-lenses/ta...t/sku-1395999/

03-20-2022, 12:55 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by disconnekt Quote
isn't that listing for the US store?

the OP is from the UK
03-20-2022, 03:21 AM - 1 Like   #21
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Doh! My bad, shouldve checked where he was located first lol
Checked the EU version of the site & only saw one macro lens there, but it was for the 645 system :/
03-20-2022, 06:18 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by disconnekt Quote
Doh! My bad, shouldve checked where he was located first lol . . .
Been there

Done that


Last edited by aslyfox; 03-20-2022 at 09:01 AM.
03-20-2022, 04:26 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by just_another_gymbro Quote
Thanks for the links...going to do some more reading. I think I'm likely going to buy either the FA or DFA (non-WR), used. And then start the loooooong process of digitizing the old pictures.
The best way by far to accomplish this instead of using your camera, is to get a high-resolution, high D-max, flatbed photo scanner, not the usual business all-around scanner- usually a scanner/printer combo. My 20+ year-old Epson still works fine for copying my photos. My likewise-old Photoshop Elements-1 software is still great for easy touchups and restorations. Just be sure to clean the dust off your photos before scanning, as these particles will show up!
03-20-2022, 05:16 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by aslyfox Quote
there are actually 4 members of the Pentax 100mm F2.8 Macro " family "

the SMC Pentax-F 100mm F2.8 Macro, the SMC Pentax-FA 100mm F2.8 Macro, the SMC Pentax-D FA 100mm F2.8 Macro and the newest

the SMC Pentax-D FA 100mm F2.8 Macro WR
That would be the autofocus "family". There is also the SMC Pentax-A100mm F2.8 Macro (manual focus only).
03-20-2022, 05:51 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by PKMike Quote
. . . There is also the SMC Pentax-A100mm F2.8 Macro (manual focus only).
thanks for the new knowledge
QuoteQuote:
Description:
This was the first Pentax 100mm macro lens to employ an aperture of 2.8 and 1:1 magnification.

Optics 7 elements, 7 groups

Read more at: SMC Pentax-A 100mm F2.8 Macro Reviews - A Prime Lenses - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database

but it doesn't share the same optics as the 4 AF lenses:

QuoteQuote:

Description:
This was the first in a series of 100mm autofocus macro lenses from Pentax. The subsequent versions (FA, D FA) have the same optical formula. The optics are seated that far from the front that no separate lens hood is required.

Optics: 9 elements, 8 groups
Read more at: https://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/SMC-Pentax-F-100mm-F2.8-Macro-Lens....O7ucnh65Optics

Last edited by aslyfox; 03-21-2022 at 02:31 AM.
03-20-2022, 11:48 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikesbike Quote
The best way by far to accomplish this instead of using your camera, is to get a high-resolution, high D-max, flatbed photo scanner, not the usual business all-around scanner- usually a scanner/printer combo.
I looked into dedicated 35mm and 120 scanners, flatbed scanners and camera-based solutions in some detail before setting up my own digitising rig, and came to the conclusion that there's no ideal, one-size-fits-all approach. They each have pro's and con's, and the "best way by far" depends on a number of factors, the importance and priorities of which differ from user-to-user. A camera-based solution has both advantages and disadvantages compared to a flatbed scanner or dedicated film scanner, but I've zero regrets in having chosen that option...

Last edited by BigMackCam; 03-21-2022 at 12:16 AM.
03-21-2022, 02:53 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
. . . A camera-based solution has both advantages and disadvantages compared to a flatbed scanner or dedicated film scanner, but I've zero regrets in having chosen that option...
as is often true

" one size " does not always fit all

Last edited by aslyfox; 03-21-2022 at 03:01 AM.
03-21-2022, 11:38 AM - 1 Like   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by just_another_gymbro Quote
First, I want to start at-home development and scanning. I love shooting B&W on my K1000, and my family has well over 1500 film negatives that either have poor quality prints, or aren't digitized. So I think getting a DSLR scanning lens + light box + holder will get a lot of use. I did some testing with a friend's macro lens + KP + tripod + phone as a backlight and it worked quite well, which is what made me want to upgrade in this regard. Where I hope I could get some guidance is as follow:

1. Does anyone have any experience doing the "full stack" of 35mm shooting? ie. Everything from buying bulk film with a loader, to at-home development and scanning. Where do you think I should upgrade first? Should I start by at-home scanning and bulk film and go to a lab for development? Or should I start by at-home development and not worry about scanning?

2. Is better to get an expensive lens (100mm macro), and a worse lightbox? I already have a tripod that can act like a copy-stand so that's not an issue. Or should I splurge on a film holder/copy-stand/etc. and get a vintage macro lens/extenders for cheaper?

Just to add a bit to the already very helpful replies. I do slide and negative scanning using a dslr, and agree that it works extremely well. I tried a few scans of 35mm negs using a flatbed film scanner, and it was nowhere near as good quality or as fast as the dslr.

For 35mm film I use this device: Slide copier ES-1 Close-up DSLR Accessories
It's meant for slides, but I've made a holder so that I can fit negative strips in there without scratching them. It's quick and easy (far faster than any scanner), and the design of the holder (it screws into the filter thread of your lens) ensures that the film is always perfectly aligned with the lens. Nikon makes a new version called the ES-2, which has a dedicated film strip holder, but it's more expensive. Kaiser makes something similar, but it's also pricey.

For a light source I use an LED light pad like this: Light Pad Copy Board, Drawing Light Pad A4 Ultra Thin Adjustable Brightness LED Light Board for Art Tracing : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen.
It does double duty as a light pad for checking out my negs under a loupe. Cheap, and works great.

As for lenses, as others have suggested, I recommend a dedicated macro lens for it's high resolution and field flatness. You really do want all the resolution you can get in order to resolve the film grain as sharply as possible. OTOH, if you got a really sharp standard 50mm (say an M-50/1.7) and an extension tube, you'd get great resolution too, but maybe some field flatness distortion (not sure how good those lenses are in that regard). For focal length, using the ES-1 holder and my Pentax K3, a 50mm macro lens gives me exactly full frame coverage of a 35mm negative or slide. Nice.

Hope this helps. Any more questions, just ask away.

Regards,
Svend
03-21-2022, 12:21 PM - 1 Like   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Viking42 Quote
I do slide and negative scanning using a dslr, and agree that it works extremely well. I tried a few scans of 35mm negs using a flatbed film scanner, and it was nowhere near as good quality or as fast as the dslr.
The things I really like about a camera-based digitising setup are (1) it's a component-based solution, where each component - camera, lens, stand / tripod (if used), light source - has potential uses (often several) other than digitising film; (2) the ease in which perfect focus accuracy and hence optimal resolution can be achieved, using magnified Live View and manual focus; and (3) the speed of workflow, at least for the capture element (conversion to positive and image-processing thereafter can be quick or slow, depending on the software and techniques used and the quality required - but the nice thing here is the range of options and level of control).

Regarding the component-based aspect, the only pieces of equipment in my digitising rig that I haven't yet put to alternative uses are the several film holders I own. My camera, lenses, copy stand and light table already serve more than one purpose... which makes the investment in any equipment not already owned easier to justify, and expands the overall versatility of one's photographic kit.

Honestly, if I could spend a couple of thousand just to play with gear, I'd love to buy a high-end flatbed scanner and a dedicated 135 + 120 film scanner, just to have those options available... I'm sure there are occasions where they can be preferable for one reason or another. But my camera-based setup - even if slightly different to yours, Svend - produces results I'm very pleased with...

Apologies to the OP for veering slightly OT, but given his interest in "DSLR Scanning", I hope it's helpful...

Last edited by BigMackCam; 03-21-2022 at 01:20 PM.
03-21-2022, 12:46 PM - 1 Like   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by just_another_gymbro Quote
1. Does anyone have any experience doing the "full stack" of 35mm shooting? ie. Everything from buying bulk film with a loader, to at-home development and scanning. Where do you think I should upgrade first? Should I start by at-home scanning and bulk film and go to a lab for development? Or should I start by at-home development and not worry about scanning?
Having re-read your initial post, I realised I hadn't responded on this point - and it's one I have some recent experience with, so feel I might offer some potentially-useful insight.

Having gone through the same journey you're planning a few months back, I decided to set up a digitising rig first. My reasoning was that film development is still relatively inexpensive if you look around for good hobbyist-oriented labs, but scanning to decent resolutions is pretty expensive everywhere. Plus, depending on the lab used, you may have zero or very little input on the level and style of processing in the scans provided. Some will offer you completely flat, untouched scans - which is great, as it leaves you to do any post-processing work yourself... exposure, tone curve, contrast, shadows / highlights. But most have their own ideas of how customer's photos should be processed, and that's what you get whether you like it or not. Lastly, some labs only provide JPEGs, whilst others provide TIFFs at extra cost. JPEGs are fine, but you obviously lose quite a bit of information from the digital image due to compression, and if you plan on doing further optimisation or editing yourself, this should be a consideration. By doing your own digitising at home, you reduce the cost per film significantly and gain full control over the style and quality of the scans, and with a DSLR-based rig you get raw files to work with. Nice

Once you're happy with the digitising aspect, I'd move on to developing film next. I've only developed a handful of films thus far, as I've been busy with other projects too (especially recently). It's quite daunting the first time, but members here have been extremely helpful in guiding me, and it turns out to be not that difficult to get at least a useable result, so long as your photos were reasonably exposed to begin with. One thing I would say is, it's quite easy to over-equip yourself for home developing, and I've been guilty of that myself - however most of the items needed are relatively inexpensive, so even if you do end up buying items you subsequently don't need or use, the costs are fairly insignificant.

Both home developing and digitising have proven extremely satisfying for me, but developing in particular feels almost magical

Bulk loading is something I've looked at, but unless you're going to be shooting an awful lot of film (of the same type) and shooting it very regularly, I'm not sure the benefits outweigh the cost of entry and effort required... That said, I'd love to give it a try some time, just to have the experience

Last edited by BigMackCam; 03-21-2022 at 01:24 PM.
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