Originally posted by axl so now if I'm using my Tokina 28 (old manual lens from film era) shall I be stopping it down stop more to get everything in focus while set on HF?
As a rule of thumb, I'd stop it down one extra stop (or conversely, use the DOF markings on the lens for the aperture one stop wider than what the lens is actually set to). So if the aperture ring is set to f/8, for example, use the DOF scale markings shown for f/5.6. You can put some figures into the DOF calculator I linked to in my previous post and see that the result is very close to the DOF you'll get from the smaller sensor.
And to repeat for those aren't getting it: the reason the depth of field is smaller is because the DOF scale on the lens is designed for full-frame 35mm film. When you use the same lens on a K10D, you have to enlarge the image MORE in order to get a final print or screen image of the same size (say, 10 inches across). Because you've enlarged the image more, you've also enlarged the blurriness of the slightly out-of-focus areas - that means some of those areas that would have appeared sharp before are now revealed under the extra magnification as not-so-sharp in the final picture. The net effect is: smaller depth of field.
(Of course the prints from 35mm vs. K10D, while the same physical size at, say, 10" across, wouldn't show the same picture because the field of view on the K10D is much smaller. But that's irrelevant to the depth-of-field issue at hand).
Keep in mind that DOF is somewhat subjective and highly dependent on the size and viewing distance of the final image. It's not an absolute thing. You'll have more apparent DOF in a small print or screen image than a large one, and more DOF in a print or image viewed from farther away than from one viewed at a closer distance.