[JensE]

So Laowa's website is wrong?

Not necessarily wrong, but incomplete - their technical data doesn't list Pentax at all, and the Pentax version only became available a year or so after launch. The newer shift lenses also don't have an A-setting due to their construction, so it really depends on the lens.

[FozzFoster]

Not necessarily wrong, but incomplete - their technical data doesn't list Pentax at all,

nice catch! thanks for pointing that out

[ramiot]

I can reaasure all of you the Laowa 100mm lens for Pentax works as an A lens ( It has an A on the barrel), all you need to do is program your camera to accept "A" setting in the menu section. View the EXIF data in my last Post at the last picture.

Exposure Time 1/180s (0.0056)
Aperture F/2.8
ISO Equivalent 400
Exposure Bias -1.50
White Balance Auto
Metering Mode Pattern
Exposure Aperture priority (semi-auto)
Exposure Mode Manual

[JPRLondon]

The aperture ring easily slips out of the 'A' setting - in which case the camera would not be able to know the aperture and show 'F'. Maybe your's didn't signal the 'A' position to the camera correctly.

Anyway, as a general purpose lens, already the DFA100WR handles much better, in many ways (focus throw, scales, hood, aperture lock, cleaning, has AF), is more compact, has better flare resistance/contrast in difficult light, is actually an f/2.8 lens (the LAOWA more f/3.5-ish) and is weather sealed. The LOAWA has nicer foreground rendering and outstanding LoCA correction. The DFA100AW apparently has narrowed that gap, from what I've seen so far (not much), and even received a software AF limiter, so that would be my personal pick at the moment.

Thank you

[rgknief60]

I just bought this lens as I was attracted by the rare 2x macro function. Unfortunately it would not communicate with my K1 with just a letter F showing in the camera display so I had to return it.

I can verify that the A setting works on the Laowa Dreamer if enabled in your camera settings unless the lens is defective. Things like that were a big issue for me when I got my K20D. I knew little about the body when I took it to Egypt. I was frustrated that the body would not allow me to take a picture if the exposure was incorrect. I missed a lot of shots because I had no clue that was a setting that could be adjusted.

I had the older FA 100mm Macro. I recently gave it to my sister as I did not use it often. I used it once to do portraits and candids at a convention, and really appreciated the autofocus. For most (but not all) macro work, I do manual focus. As my eyes change, I find that I add live view more often. No autofocus is capable of reading your mind regarding what you want in focus when using high magnification. Sometimes butterflies and other subjects do not allow you time to focus, so the autofocus is your best chance to get the shot. 1:1 is not easy for me to do handheld as I shake, and need a flash or a high shutter speed to compensate. Your depth of field at 1:1 is so thin that one needs to be super creative and precise, or focus stack to get good images.

I also have the Laowa Dreamer 2x. I really like it. Anything above 1:1 is a whole new ball game. Flash and/or a tripod are almost mandatory. I cannot take an image handheld with natural light at 2x without a LOT of light. Most of us are not Thomas Shahan, and he uses diffused flash!

One shortcoming of the Dreamer is it's short focus throw. That makes it more challenging (but not impossible with practice) than other macro lenses for macro and portraits, especially to nail the eye. That's why I use a rail and live view for its higher magnification. A manual rail like the NiSi is very helpful (mandatory for me) when making stacks. The higher your magnification, the more light you need, so think in terms of "how am I going to light this subject?" If you don't have light, a long exposure with a cooperative subject is your only other option. High ISO and macro sharpness don't mix well for me. But I'm still learning.

I think it comes down to your primary purpose for the lens. If it is portrait and active subjects, go with an autofocus macro lens with a decent throw for manual focus. If you are going to shoot a lot of 1:1 macro and above, the flexibility of 2x is wonderful. Know beforehand that manual focus is not as easy as with other MF lenses.

The image below is a 500 image stack, followed by an actual pixel crop of the stack that I took with the Dreamer. It is a bit above 1.5x

Whatever you decide to do, I know you will have fun!

Roger


Wolf Spider?



Wolf Spider? Actual Pixels

[JPRLondon]

Thank you for taking the time to post, great shot as well.

[mikesbike]

For all-around other uses plus closeups- macro or less, the new Pentax DFA 100mm f/2.8 AW AF lens would undoubtedly be best. It features an updated optical formula. It is also a beautifully-built lens, much in line with the Limited series. And as such, and with its capabilities, the price seems quite reasonable.

[ksparks519]

2x macro is pretty specific and fussy and most people that shoot at that magnification don't use automatic features. Focus is by moving the camera not the focus ring, 99% of the time f/8 is the right aperture, and you need a flash and a way to diffuse it. My current set-up is a reverse-mounted 28mm on an extension tube and I daydream about owning a Laowa 100mm someday. But it's a lousy whim purchase if you're not interested in going down that whole rabbit hole.

[JPRLondon]

For all-around other uses plus closeups- macro or less, the new Pentax DFA 100mm f/2.8 AW AF lens would undoubtedly be best. It features an updated optical formula. It is also a beautifully-built lens, much in line with the Limited series. And as such, and with its capabilities, the price seems quite reasonable.

Yes I'm more feeling that is the way to go as 75% of the use is more likely to be as a 100mm portrait lens and only 25% for macro, Thanks, John

---------- Post added 12-10-22 at 06:25 PM ----------

Thank you. John R

2x macro is pretty specific and fussy and most people that shoot at that magnification don't use automatic features. Focus is by moving the camera not the focus ring, 99% of the time f/8 is the right aperture, and you need a flash and a way to diffuse it. My current set-up is a reverse-mounted 28mm on an extension tube and I daydream about owning a Laowa 100mm someday. But it's a lousy whim purchase if you're not interested in going down that whole rabbit hole.