[Sjak]

Hi everyone, I've just picked up this lens. I was wondering if there's an easy way to attach filters to it? (I'll be using the lens on the K3iiiM, and I like to use orange and blue filters, and maybe also an ND-filter occasionally)

I have searched the forum, but all topics covering this question seem to related to the SMC-version of the lens, which had a hood fixed to the lens and that had threads that allowed to install filters. On the HD, the inside of the hood is not threaded.

Of course I can start fiddling with oversized step-down rings + felt. But I'm curious if there's a more elegant solution that I'm overlooking

PS - I'm aware that at 10mm, the filter ring itself will be visible in the frame, but this seems gone around 12-14mm (handheld testing)

[Sandy Hancock]

A filter holder which mounts onto the barrel and takes Lee filters (like the DFA15-30/2.8) might be possible. If you manage to design and market one, I'll buy it.

In the meantime, consider finding a K 17/4.0 Fisheye. It has UV, skylight, yellow and orange filters built in. Obviously, it's not fully fishy on a crop camera though.

The same goes for the K 15/3.5 rectilinear, but again, in the crop ecosystem, the DA 15/4.0 Limited takes filters anyway, so that's moot.

[Sjak]

A filter holder which mounts onto the barrel and takes Lee filters (like the DFA15-30/2.8) might be possible. If you manage to design and market one, I'll buy it.

In the meantime, consider finding a K 17/4.0 Fisheye. It has UV, skylight, yellow and orange filters built in. Obviously, it's not fully fishy on a crop camera though.

The same goes for the K 15/3.5 rectilinear, but again, in the crop ecosystem, the DA 15/4.0 Limited takes filters anyway, so that's moot.

Thanks Sandy!

From experience, I know that for ultra-wide, I prefer zooms, as already 1 or 2mm make a huge difference. And the close-up ability of the 10-17 + the new HD-coatings sealed the deal for me, even if no filters are possible. If nobody here has found a solution yet, I'll see if I can improvise a fix I have some ideas already, but currently lack spare time.

---------- Post added 04-21-23 at 05:27 AM ----------

*EDIT*

After some fiddling with a ruler and some paper, handholding a 100*100 (square) or 100*143mm filter may be an easy (and cheap!) fix from 12mm onwards, but that would only work when shooting from a tripod.

[bdery]

I was wondering if there's an easy way to attach filters to it?

Have a look at the Revoring from H&Y. It worked for me when I reviewed the fisheye.

[Sjak]

Have a look at the Revoring from H&Y. It worked for me when I reviewed the fisheye.

Thanks, great suggestion! This looks much more practical in the field!

[robgski]

First off, great lens for APS-C, I want a copy for my KP, even though I have the 17mm lens Sandy mentioned and it is a gem.

Second, I look forward to seeing the finished filter hold and related images.

[Bob 256]

One solution is to use gelatin filter discs on the backside of the lens. Using a donut of double stick tape, they can be affixed to some lenses over the rear lens opening. The downside is that they aren't near as convenient to change as front side filters, and the cost for the filter itself might be fairly high (I haven't priced these lately). They might not be reusable either depending on how they are attached and removed.

[rpjallan]

This is where a 3D printer would come in handy.

[Sjak]

One solution is to use gelatin filter discs on the backside of the lens. Using a donut of double stick tape, they can be affixed to some lenses over the rear lens opening. The downside is that they aren't near as convenient to change as front side filters, and the cost for the filter itself might be fairly high (I haven't priced these lately). They might not be reusable either depending on how they are attached and removed.

That could be an option, although I wonder how practical this would be in the field. But I'm going to check the options. Thanks for the suggestion!

This is where a 3D printer would come in handy.

Absolutely! I can visualize what I'd like, but I miss the craft-skills to make it myself. Something to think about for the longer term, if this is a lens that ends up often in the bag

[Sandy Hancock]

Have a look at the Revoring from H&Y. It worked for me when I reviewed the fisheye.

I can't believe I missed this product! This will be enormously useful for the yellow, orange and red filters I expect to be re-acquiring in the near future.

[Sjak]

This will be enormously useful for the yellow, orange and red filters I expect to be re-acquiring in the near future.

Are you getting the K3 Mono as well? Or for a film-project?

I've found blue filters useful for emulating the orthochromatic look, but also for adding contrast in urban environment with brick buildings.

[Sandy Hancock]

Are you getting the K3 Mono as well? Or for a film-project?

The former
You might be able to convince me about the blue filter!

[Sjak]

The former
You might be able to convince me about the blue filter!

Nice, congratulations!

On my Leica Monochroms, when I use filters, it's either orange (the effect of yellow is easy to replicate in post, and red is often too much) or on occasion blue. Besides more modern lenses, I use a set of Leica lenses from the 1930ies, which are low contrast, so filters definitely help there.

This pic was made last week with M246 + modern lens (Voigtlander 40mm 1.2 @ f/8) + orange-filter.

[Digitalis]

I was wondering if there's an easy way to attach filters to it? (I'll be using the lens on the K3iiiM, and I like to use orange and blue filters, and maybe also an ND-filter occasionally)

You can get clip filters from STC optics or Astronomik:


This style of filter is designed to go between the rear element and the sensor and can be used on DSLR/mirorrless camera systems. The upshot of this design is that the filter can be used with extremely wide lenses without the need for using awkward and extremely expensive filter holders on the front of the lens. The downside is that there isn't as wide a filter selection as there are from other manufacturers and polarising filters would be rather impractical using this design.



---------- Post added 2023-04-22 at 09:29 PM ----------

On my Leica Monochroms, when I use filters, it's either orange (the effect of yellow is easy to replicate in post, and red is often too much) or on occasion blue.

For me I use a classic Tiffen Orange 21 and Tiffen Green 11 filters. I rarely use blue filtration because it is by far the least pleasant to skin tones. Tiffen Red 29 is a very deep red (it does pass a considerable amount of IR) and is great on the Leica M8 with its weaker built in UV/IR cut filter.

[Just1MoreDave]

The popular Zenitar 16mm fisheye has an unusual cap. When people lost the cap, one DIY solution was to get a few old 67mm filters, remove the glass, line with felt and create a sleeve that slipped over the front. Then a 67mm cap to finish it off. If you have a bunch of old filters around and the outer diameter of the 10-17 is slightly less than a filter size, you could do the same kind of DIY sleeve and screw a filter on the sleeve.