[artrasa]

It sounds like your copy was de-centered. When stopped down, all incarnations of the 18-55 are reasonably capable, especially the "II" versions... nothing to challenge a really good prime or higher-end zoom, but respectable nonetheless...

Yes, I also think your diagnosis is correct. I found it worked great as a close-up lens. With close subjects, the edges of the frame often end up being out of focus anyway so any additional blurring didn't cause any harm. The lens worked beautifully in that use!

[othar]

I got it working. I found that I had to press the AF button depending on the scene lighting and the camera would change the AF appropriately and I’m now taking shots with it.

As a side note, I think this lens is taking better quality shots than my 50-200mm DA L lens. I’ve read the DA L is lower quality than the DA lenses.

Good to hear it's working now.

DA-L lenses miss some features like quick-shift, a metal lens mount and annoyingly a lens hood, but they use the same optical elements as its DA counterparts and have therefore the same IQ (when you add a lens hood )

[AfterPentax Mark II]

That 25cm minimum focus distance is, as I mentioned previously, only at 18mm... It'll be greater at longer focal lengths (and considerably so at 55mm). I think the OP's decision to find out through trial and error is probably a good educational move...

It may be 25cm at 18 mm but at 55mm the camera still confirms in focus if you turn the zoomring from 18 to 55. And of course the distance to subject remained the same. It is one of the perks of this 18-55. In the manual of this lens, as I wrote before, it is indicated that between 25 and 35cm (it is also in red numbers with the stripe in between as is done by all the other Pentax branded lenses that have "macro") you can use this lens as a "sort of" macro and at 55mm you can still get that close to your subject. With my first digital SLR I only had this lens and I used it a lot in that 25-35cm range, because it was fun to do so as it was an easy macro (even AF did a good job). All three editions of this lens have that capability. The follow up 18-50 RE does not.

[BigMackCam]

It may be 25cm at 18 mm but at 55mm the camera still confirms in focus if you turn the zoomring from 18 to 55. And of course the distance to subject remained the same. It is one of the perks of this 18-55. In the manual of this lens, as I wrote before, it is indicated that between 25 and 35cm (it is also in red numbers with the stripe in between as is done by all the other Pentax branded lenses that have "macro") you can use this lens as a "sort of" macro and at 55mm you can still get that close to your subject. With my first digital SLR I only had this lens and I used it a lot in that 25-35cm range, because it was fun to do so as it was an easy macro (even AF did a good job). All three editions of this lens have that capability. The follow up 18-50 RE does not.

Interesting.... I wasn't aware of that 35cm upper limit. It's greater than 25cm for sure, but not that much greater. Thanks for the clarification! I'll have to play with my copy tomorrow... I sold the original WR version I bought with my K-7 way back when, and regretted it... it's good to have a WR beater lens, and the 18-55 isn't half bad, so I bought another copy last year to replace it

I see what you mean by "sort of" macro, too. 0.34x magnification isn't too shabby at all, and better than the 18-50's 0.23x...

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Last edited by BigMackCam; 06-04-2023 at 01:00 PM.

[Bourbonieer]

After using this lens it appears it needs a lot of light to work. I can’t get this lens to work in lower light settings unless I really increase the ISO and slow the shutter speed. Is this typical, or am I doing something wrong?

[BigMackCam]

After using this lens it appears it needs a lot of light to work. I can’t get this lens to work in lower light settings unless I really increase the ISO and slow the shutter speed. Is this typical, or am I doing something wrong?

That's just the way it is with slower variable aperture lenses, I'm afraid.

This article might be useful to read:

Camera Exposure: Aperture, ISO & Shutter Speed

In lower light, you have several options:

- Use a slower shutter speed (but if you go too slow, you'll need to shoot from a tripod to avoid camera-shake-induced blur)
- Use flash or other lighting (but you may need more than one light depending on the type of scene you want to capture)
- Use a lens with a faster aperture (many primes have a maximum aperture of f/2.8 or wider - as much as f/1.4 or even f/1.2 - but if you shoot at these apertures, focus is critical, and lots of your scene won't be in focus)
- Shoot in better natural light

Lots to learn, I know, but stick with it. It's very rewarding

[pschlute]

After using this lens it appears it needs a lot of light to work. I can’t get this lens to work in lower light settings unless I really increase the ISO and slow the shutter speed. Is this typical, or am I doing something wrong?

It is a consumer (kit) zoom lens. It is not fast aperture, and that is reflected in the price. Absolutely typical of consumer lenses from any manufacturer.

What is your typical intended use of a lens ? Under what lighting conditions ?

It is important to note that a faster (and more expensive) lens brings with it it's own drawbacks like very narrow DOF.

[Bourbonieer]

I’m able to use it outdoors in the sun, but inside with the lights on is touchy. Seems picky for a kit lens/all around type.

---------- Post added 06-07-23 at 03:29 PM ----------

Would the Pentax 35mm DA L f/2.4 AL be a decent general use lens? I assume this is a prime lens? Or would I run into the same lighting issues?

[Bourbonieer]

I have a Sigma EF-530 DG coming. Could that help me get exposure with the 18-55 in lower light?

[BigMackCam]

I’m able to use it outdoors in the sun, but inside with the lights on is touchy. Seems picky for a kit lens/all around type.

It's very typical of low-cost consumer kit lenses from any brand. They're designed to be small, lightweight and most of all, inexpensive, mainly for folks starting out in the hobby. There's nothing wrong with them - but they have several limitations, one of which you've discovered. Fast, constant aperture zoom lenses that capture more light are generally bigger, heavier and more expensive to produce and buy.

Would the Pentax 35mm DA L f/2.4 AL be a decent general use lens? I assume this is a prime lens? Or would I run into the same lighting issues?

Your 18-55 has a maximum aperture of f/3.5 at 18mm and f/5.6 at 55mm, so it lets in more light at the 18mm setting than at 55mm. At 35mm, maximum aperture is f/4.5, vs f/2.4 on the DA35. That's a difference of around one-and-two-thirds of a stop of light. So, if you find yourself having to shoot at, say, ISO 1600 with the 18-55 at 35mm and f/4.5, the DA35 at f/2.4 would enable you to use the same shutter speed at approx. ISO 500 (which is one-and-two-thirds of a stop down from ISO 1600).

However...

Whilst the DA35 f/2.4 is an excellent general-use lens (and a great first prime to buy), on an APS-C sensor camera like yours it gives a field of view that's a bit tight and limiting for indoor use, in my opinion. Try setting your 18-55 to 35mm and looking through the camera viewfinder while walking around your home; this will give you a decent idea of how things will look if using the DA35. Most folks find a wider angle lens much more useful and versatile for indoor settings.

A better, more versatile choice might a "constant aperture" zoom lens such as the Tamron or Sigma 17-50 f/2.8, where the maximum aperture of f/2.8 stays the same throughout the entire focal length range. Neither model is manufactured any more, but you can often find them used for quite reasonable money - the Tamron for around $200 or less depending on condition, the Sigma a bit more. Both are necessarily bigger and heavier than your 18-55, but the Tamron is quite compact and lightweight for this type of lens. I believe the Sigma is a bit sharper at maximum aperture, though, and has near-silent sonic motor focusing (I own one, and it's a fine lens).

I have a Sigma EF-530 DG coming. Could that help me get exposure with the 18-55 in lower light?

It will help you get lots more light onto your subject, for sure. You'll need to experiment with the direction in which you fire the flash to get the best distribution of light and most natural look, as your shots will look different to those taken in natural light. If you have white or cream ceilings and walls, a good technique can be to "bounce" the flash off one of those rather than pointing it directly at your subject. You can experiment with a pocket flashlight - point it directly at a subject in your home and see how it looks (usually quite harsh and unappealing, with strong shadows in the background), then try pointing it at the ceiling, one of the walls to the side or behind you, a white door etc. You'll see that each approach will affect distribution and intensity of light (and resulting shadows) differently, for a variety of results.

There are whole articles - entire books, even - on flash techniques. You can learn to do some very cool and creative things... It's not just for making things brighter

[Bourbonieer]

Thank you so much for all of that information! I did some more experimenting with the 18-55 and I decided to return it to MPB. I think there is something wrong with it. When I first attach the lens to the camera body the image through the viewfinder is crystal clear. After a few shots the image becomes grey, dark and I can see what appears to be the shutter not resetting completely. When I shoot using LIVE view on the LCD screen the image is clear, shots are crisp, and the auto focus works just fine. Take that same shot, switch to the viewfinder and the lens won’t focus and it’s almost impossible to see through.

I have no issues with my 50-200mm so I think there is an issue with the 18-55 lens. I’m going to return it this weekend. Today I ordered a Sigma lens, similar to the one you mentioned, a17-70mm f/2.8-4.5 DC Macro. That lens reviewed well on this website so I figured it’s worth a shot. (Pun intended LOL)