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01-17-2009, 03:52 PM   #1
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Shouldn't this be sharper Part 2

I took the advice in the earlier thread about the Tamron 90, threw it on a tripod, set the ol' K100 for 2-second delay, shot in RAW and processed with a touch of USM, and here's the full frame result... as suggested, it is noticeably sharper than the handhelds in Part 1 thread. Now, shouldcould this be sharper? My feeling is it's pretty good as is, but other eyes may see something I'm missing. Thanks for all the feedback,
Brian


01-17-2009, 04:01 PM   #2
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well it is iso1600 after all... you're gonna take a hit in sharpness with that setting. if you want to test sharpness, dial iso to 200 w/ a similar aperture as you had it (f/8), keep it on a tripod w/ 2 second lock up and you should get a result that will be more informative. and since this is a macro lens, maybe do a closeup on a flower or something w/ a lot of detail. Your statue of those frogs would work too, but there's not a lot of texture there to get a lot of sharpness info. also, are you shooting jpg or raw?
01-17-2009, 04:12 PM   #3
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I agree that the noise @ 1600 will definitely detract from sharpness. But the shot here looks good. Please do a serious Macro shot with the lens--that is why you bought it--correct?
01-17-2009, 07:21 PM   #4
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Yes - you need at least 1:3 close-focus at ISO 400 to test the real sharpness of
a macro lens, and it would be best to try 1:2 or 1:1 at ISO 100 or 200 on a tripod.

At ISO 1600, you're seeing the lens at probably about 70% of it's capability, at
best. A lot of detail gets washed out starting at ISO 800, on any sensor.

And handheld shots are only worthwhile tests if you're an extremely steady
shooter - otherwise, even with SR, you lose some critical sharpness.

However - once you satisfy yourself that the lens is sharp, you can and should
shoot handheld all you like - that Tammy is a great performer all-around, not just for macro.

(BTW, those ISO 1600 shots look pretty good to me.)


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01-17-2009, 11:21 PM   #5
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Yeah, you're testing at the extremes here. This shot in itself is amazingly sharp considering the settings. Dial it to 1:1, F8, ISO100 and you'll be amazed. This lens, like many macro lenses need lots of light. There's no ifs-ands-or-buts about it.

I think this lense is fine. It's now the operator's turn to make it look amazing.
01-18-2009, 09:43 AM   #6
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It's more than just a macro lens though, I have used it at 10 to 20 feet with startling results. But yeah, ISO 1600 is a bit silly, get it up on a tripod in decent light and dial in some positibve exposure, all your images are underexposed.
01-18-2009, 12:45 PM   #7
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3rd and last test image, thanks one and all...

QuoteOriginally posted by Alfisti Quote
It's more than just a macro lens though, I have used it at 10 to 20 feet with startling results. But yeah, ISO 1600 is a bit silly, get it up on a tripod in decent light and dial in some positibve exposure, all your images are underexposed.
Oops, forgot the ISO. Here's another image: macro at 200 ISO, f/2.8 @ 1/10, tripod mount and 2-second delay. I didn't really get the lens for macro, I'm more interested in the modest telephoto range, but it seems good to have available.

To these old eyes, it looks plenty sharp. I'm guessing sharper/ better is an operator issue, not an equipment issue. Thanks for all the feedback,
Brian
01-18-2009, 02:21 PM   #8
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How about a full size crop?
Btw, USM, usually works on larger than pixel level detail. It enchaces general contrast of image around any edges making the image look sharper.
To regain texture and pixel level detail that may be lost during resize operation, try different sharpening (Usually just Sharpen - in IrfanView, Gimp and Photoshop at least). You may also try different resample methods.

In the attachment i posted comparisment of various resample methods availible in photoshop, when downsizing. I do not recall, wich one was wich but there was all photoshop methods, including some of more acceptable with USM applied. Maybe there was even gimp too. Anyway, you can see the difference it makes.

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