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04-09-2007, 05:08 AM   #1
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Graduated Neutral Density Filters

Anyone here using Galen Rowell's Graduated Neutral Density Filters,for their DA 40mm lens?

04-09-2007, 05:23 AM   #2
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Particularly for bright prime lenses, I always use neutral density filters.

In general, primes either limited or A star labelled would over expose the photos by at least 1.7 stops in bright light. The images tend to be clipped as well.

Neutral density filters tend to preserve a lot of rich colour without too much areas being clipped.

Neutral density filters also worked very well for water fall photos where 1 sec shutter time is preferred with aperture around 16. (If you want the silky beautiful water flows)





Then graduated filters helped in conditions like sea landscape at sunset where the colour of the dramatic sky is difficult to be metered and the foreground colour are preferred to be preserved.

I had seen MsKad's amazing Creek photo in a forest where graduated filter did the trick!

Another example of using graduated filter to preserve the colour ...



I also used the filter to get more details on people's faces in street candids.



P.S. The neutral density has +, 2+ or 3+ that usually indicate how much more darker with crecendo numbers
04-09-2007, 05:37 AM   #3
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I use 2 and 3 stop Hightech GNDs and a Singh-Ray RGND with the Cokin P system for the 21mm and 40mm. They work very well, just get the wide angle holder, as I have noticed some vignetting on even the 40mm with the regular holder.
04-09-2007, 06:37 AM   #4
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*Finds the waterfall pics so nice, he jumps over the edge.

Hey do circular polarizers do the same job?

04-09-2007, 08:53 AM   #5
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I had no idea that filters had so much to offer... man... I am never gonna get the hang of this stuff.
04-09-2007, 08:18 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Buddha Jones Quote
I had no idea that filters had so much to offer... man... I am never gonna get the hang of this stuff.
Never!

The more you learn, the more you learn that there is even more to learn.

Gotta find a niche for yourself.

Specialise.

Get to learn more and more about less and less so that, eventually, you'll get to know all there is to know about very little at all.

Alternatively, get to know enough to achieve what you need and be content with that.
04-09-2007, 08:33 PM   #7
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Hmmm...
I recently read a book on landscape composition in which the author stressed the use of a Grad ND filter. I hope to purchase one, but don't really understand how you might go about positioning it while still holding the camera with two hands. Would a clamp of some sort be used?
04-09-2007, 11:45 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by FotoPete Quote
*Finds the waterfall pics so nice, he jumps over the edge.

Hey do circular polarizers do the same job?

The polariser usually darkens the image by 2 stops. Polariser does work but most of time, it does not darken the photo enough for me, especially in Australia where harsh sun is seen almost everywhere.

The white balance in k10d is kind of funny that sometimes it produces the vibrant colour when the shot is taken in really dim light (I see no colour from view finder except shades of grey). Sometimes inaccuracy in white balance can be of a good thing ...

04-09-2007, 11:48 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by wmmk Quote
Hmmm...
I recently read a book on landscape composition in which the author stressed the use of a Grad ND filter. I hope to purchase one, but don't really understand how you might go about positioning it while still holding the camera with two hands. Would a clamp of some sort be used?
With Cokin filter, you would need filter holder. There are various sizes for the holder as well.

Before you buy any filters or filter holders, make sure what your primary lens is that requires these filters before jumping into purchasing. Otherwise you would end up a bunch of unused filters that could not sell much on ebay

For me, most of my filters are 58mm screw on. I personally disliked Cokin filters for its plastic quality and kind of bulky with a filter holder ...
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