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09-10-2009, 01:24 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by chrispwill Quote
Ben,

I was afraid of that. Now I still have to wonder how long it has been there and how much it has been spreading over time. I may be brave enough to try opening the front of the lens to clean this front element out, but need a backup automatic lens in case I mess things up.

I am pretty technology and mechanical savvy, but opening lenses is not on my resume's list of "skills" - Yet. There is always that first time!

The Nikon 990 that took the macro image is able to focus down to 0.8" and can allow manual focusing in fairly fine increments below 1" beyond using the auto focus. I have shot almost 18000 images with that camera. My first real Digital Camera.

I am trying to obtain a Pentax F or FA lens with a focal length range of around 35-105mm or 35-135mm by shopping ebay auctions. I wish there were other online options to find these older lenses. I need to frequent more camera shops and estate sales.

Thanks for the diagnosis confirmation. The current fungus spread is covering a good 30-40% of the lens area and is more prominent at the top of the lens as mounted on the camera. Sigh!

Chris
I have cleaned several lenses off funghus, even fairly complicated mechanical monsters like the Pentax 28mm Shift (which had severe funghus on the internal filters). But I would personally not clean out a AF lens, unless the grwoth was limited to the front or rear element, both of which should be cleaned, without dismantling all the AF gearing.

The old Pentax A 35-135 is a very sought after lens, but I see it frequently on ebay. I myself had the 28-135/4 and sold it, because I was unable to use it - I never really recognized, whether something was in focus or not... Maybe the 35-135 is better in that respect?

Ben

09-10-2009, 01:25 PM   #17
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I would then believe that it would be better to kill it off as well as fix whatever allowed the infected lens to become infected so the others did not follow.
09-10-2009, 05:53 PM   #18
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Well, as this Sigma is my only real lens, not counting a 50mm and 28mm from Sears that I bought for my KSX SLR more than 30 years ago! BTW: These lenses shared space in the camera bag with the Sigma and don't have any signs of Fungus growth on them. Nor do I find any evidence on the SLR camera mirror or focus screen.

Sorry. I'm a lens deprived camera owner! At lease where automatic AF lenses go. I have a big 70-300mm zoom somewhere that has a sticky apature. I have to find it and see what it looks like too.

I have a friend that is quite the optics guru and we may try to work on the Sigma as I am sure it is just behind the front element.

So can I stay with the Forum even though I am "infected"? Please?

Thanks All.

BTW: Fixcinator; You said you detected something visible in the 3rd photo I posted? I know the focus and sharpness is not uniform accross the entire image, but thought that was the angle of the shot and DOF being very shallow. Is it the left side of the image where you see it?
09-11-2009, 07:25 PM   #19
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I guess I was in the same boat as you, I bought a SMC Takumar 50 on ebay a couple of weeks ago, it turned out to have fungus, but i didn't want to return it since I got it with a Spotmatic for only $56. So today I decided to open it up and clean it up, it was my first time doing that, well I had to take it apart all the way since fungus was on the inside of the rear element. Everything went rather smooth, almost turned the aperture into infinite by accident lol, but other then that there's not much problem if you have those tiny screwdrivers you should be fine.

But this advice is only for the Tak, don't mess with that Sigma

09-12-2009, 04:33 PM   #20
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QuoteQuote:
I guess I was in the same boat as you, I bought a SMC Takumar 50 on ebay a couple of weeks ago, it turned out to have fungus, But this advice is only for the Tak, don't mess with that Sigma
Nice cover on the advice disclaimer! But I fully understand and am grining as I write this.

For my Sigma, the really good part is that the fungus is on the rear of the front element. I can me nearly 100% sure of that as the offending growth travels forward with the glass as I turn the zoom and extend the lens forward. So my only challenge is figuring out what to use to grip the front trim ring so I can unscrew it to get to the hidden screws that secure the front elemnts. Someone said it's a friction thing to get it to move, there are no slots for a spanner to work.

In the meantime I am sitting in the airport in Anchorage, Alaska waiting on my flight to Kotzebue. I have an ebay auction on a Pentax 35-135mm lens I really want to win and the auction ends while I am still in the air! So how much to bit on proxy so I win it but not pay too much.

(No fair anyone reading this and sniping the auction from me at the end. Grin!)
09-13-2009, 05:11 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by chrispwill Quote
Nice cover on the advice disclaimer! But I fully understand and am grining as I write this.

For my Sigma, the really good part is that the fungus is on the rear of the front element. I can me nearly 100% sure of that as the offending growth travels forward with the glass as I turn the zoom and extend the lens forward. So my only challenge is figuring out what to use to grip the front trim ring so I can unscrew it to get to the hidden screws that secure the front elemnts. Someone said it's a friction thing to get it to move, there are no slots for a spanner to work.

In the meantime I am sitting in the airport in Anchorage, Alaska waiting on my flight to Kotzebue. I have an ebay auction on a Pentax 35-135mm lens I really want to win and the auction ends while I am still in the air! So how much to bit on proxy so I win it but not pay too much.

(No fair anyone reading this and sniping the auction from me at the end. Grin!)
Well, how did that auction go. You know what I used to unscrew that front trim... scissors yeah I was afraid I'll mess up the the coating on the glass but it didn't take much effort to unscrew it.
09-17-2009, 11:43 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
You are correct, that spores are everywhere. Nevertheless, you'll get the advise to keep infected lenses separate from any repairmen and find it in those few books, which deal with camera repair, too. It is a sound precaution, to contain funghus spreading.

Not every funghus will grow on glass, so most spores floating freely around won't do any harm. But if a lens already contracted the "right" kind, it is simple common sense, to keep it separate from other lenses, I think.

Ben
I have had a few lenses with fungus and cleaned them sucessfully. I have never realy been bothered about trying to keep them separate from the rest of my lenses as the spores are likely to be pretty much everywhere anyway (opening the lens, cleaning it and then removing the remaining dust with a rocket blower it pretty much garanteed to spread them everywhere). The best means of defending against fungus if to keep lenses in a suitably dry environment so they can't grow.
I came acrss this site recently, there is some usefull info there on this subject: Fungus and Camera Lenses
09-17-2009, 02:22 PM   #23
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Great advise from everyone. Thanks.

I found a nice 28-80mm zoom macro (finally) on ebay that I bought as a second lens last night. So once I am back home from Alsaka I will try the operation on the Sigma. I may post an image or two from here in Kotzebue sometime while I am here, but they will be shot from my Nikon Coolpix 990. I don't take the DSLR on trips like this. Too bulky with everything else I carry.

Cheers from north of the Arctic Circle!

11-29-2009, 02:04 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
..........

Apart from taking apart the lenses for cleaning, you could remove both caps, wrap the rear of the lens with some aluminum kitchen foil and place them on the windo sill or somewhere els in the direct sunlight. The sun's UV light will kill the fungus. The aluminium foil reflects the light back into the lens, supporting the UV action AND will prevent damage to the window sill or table as the lens will act as a burning glass...
But even if the fungus has been killed (which takes several days or even weeks, depending on the sun radiation), .............

Ben
Since I already have many lenses I was searching on how to prevent fungus and on reading this thread I was curious about this statement of yours.

Is this so, like you say even with new lenses ? meaning the new (UV) coatings etc ?

If it's really like that this means we can store lenses on a shelf with a UV lamp always on and this way avoid fungus, right ?
11-29-2009, 02:47 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by netuser Quote
Since I already have many lenses I was searching on how to prevent fungus and on reading this thread I was curious about this statement of yours.
Is this so, like you say even with new lenses ? meaning the new (UV) coatings etc ?
If it's really like that this means we can store lenses on a shelf with a UV lamp always on and this way avoid fungus, right ?
This is a cure I have, I confess, never tried myself - I always preferred to disassemble and clean and disinfect the lenses. (Not the least, because we only have enough sunshine during a few summer weeks...) But it is a recipe which I got at either Manual Focus or in a lens repair forum and obviously a well-known secret...

If you use the aluminium foil, to prevent damage to the durface where you store the lenses, it cannot do anything bad to the lens. But there is one caveat: heat. The heat can lead to making the grease in the lens (in the ball bearings of the aperture mechanism or in the helicoid) more fluid, so that it seeps into the aperture blades or right between the lenses.

Obviously, if you don't use the sun but at dedicaded UV lamp, heat shouldn't be a problem.

Nevertheless I don't think it is necessary to store a lens under UV light all the time. If you store the lenses open (not in bags or the like) and and the room does not exhibit massive climate changes (which could lead to condensation) or if you use a tight case (Rimowa or Peli) with some desicant inside, that should be sufficient. You can, just to be on the save side, give your lenses a "UV shower" once or twice a year. Fungus doesn't usually grow fast on lenses.

Ben
11-29-2009, 03:14 PM   #26
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Thanks ben.
01-05-2010, 06:26 AM   #27
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I'm going to buy (soon) a very expensive lens and I want to be prepared not to waste money away due ot this menace, so I read on the internet that X-ray (strong emission/exposure) through the lens glass kills any spores and/or fungus inside the lens.

As preventive measure I just x-ray all my lenses yesterday at 150 Kv (strongest beam out from the machine) (have a friend working there ) I think I'm going to do this every a couple of months at the most so I can keep gear on the safe side
01-05-2010, 07:26 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by netuser Quote
I'm going to buy (soon) a very expensive lens and I want to be prepared not to waste money away due ot this menace, so I read on the internet that X-ray (strong emission/exposure) through the lens glass kills any spores and/or fungus inside the lens.

As preventive measure I just x-ray all my lenses yesterday at 150 Kv (strongest beam out from the machine) (have a friend working there ) I think I'm going to do this every a couple of months at the most so I can keep gear on the safe side
Be careful. X-rays can lead to unexpected mutations. Spores are very robust and survive millions of years travelling on space debris and with the full impact of cosmic rays. So X-raying may trigger the growths of some kind of fungus-monster, which swallows your expensive lens with ease…

Ben
01-05-2010, 10:04 AM   #29
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Fungus spores are EVERYWHERE. Spores need a host to put roots into, and moisture to grow. A dust particle invisible to the eye is big enough to host fungus. Every lens gets dust inside. To prevent fungus growth keep equipment dry.

To prevent moisture condensation on and inside camera equipment, seal equipment inside airtight bag whenever moving it from cold into warm until temperature equalizes. (Remember if weather is cold, the inside of a coat is warm and moist; the cold into warm caution especially applies here.)

Fungus metabolism produces acids which etch coatings and glass; fungus should be removed, or at least prevented from growing by keeping humidity less than 50%.

Silica Gel absorbs moisture very quickly; the humidity of silica gel must be lower than environment to absorb moisture. Silica Gel can be "recharged," i.e. stored moisture can be removed, by cooking in an oven warmer than 210 degrees F (water boiling point) and not over 300 degrees F (silica gel emits toxins). Moist silica gel becomes a source of humidity instead of humidity absorber, i.e. do not store lenses with moist silica gel. Caution: simply opening a case of cold equipment in a warm environment quickly saturates the silica gel with moisture redering it ineffective and converts it into a moisture source!

Your procedure is to first dry the equipment by storing it inside airtight conainer for several days with fresh or newly-recharged silica gel. Then decide to clean, have cleaned, or ignore it; without moisture fungus will hibernate; not growing, no more metabolic acids will be produced, and existing acids will oxidize and turn into mineral salts. Just remember hibernating fungus rapidly recovers with moisture; use extra care to prevent condensation.
01-05-2010, 12:42 PM   #30
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A little read on fungus that might provide some answers.
Fungus and Camera Lenses
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