[tcdk]

Got my 300us$ Opteka 85mm f/1.4 with the mail today and left work as fast as I could.

I'm amazed how easy it is to focus - I just find about the right spot, hold down the shutter and when the focus is spot on it fires... I've taken 52 shots at (between 1.4 and 2.0) and three of them was out of focus.

I think I love this already.

It does seem consistently underexpose about one stop. The first two below was given +1 exposure in post processing. The last one was give +1 in camera. First and last at 1.4 - center one at 2.0.

Edit: A small test says that exposes more or less the same as my Pentax DA* 50-135 2.8 ...





Higher resolution in my opteka flickr set: Opteka 85mm f/1.4 - a set on Flickr (the last one in full 14mp res, for your pixel peeping enjoyment)

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Last edited by tcdk; 05-14-2009 at 01:03 PM.

[Lowell Goudge]

I bought the vivitar version and also love the lens.

[tcdk]

The only down side seems to be that, now I don't fear the manual focus so much, so a 50mm f/1.2 becomes more of an option

[Lowell Goudge]

The only down side seems to be that, now I don't fear the manual focus so much, so a 50mm f/1.2 becomes more of an option

that may be, but if you already have a 50mm F1.4, an 85 F1.4 is more use than a 50mm F1.2

[fuuuuuu]

Hi, sorry to bump a 2month old thread but i have a question, Looking into getting one of these but i'd be mainly using it for astrophotography, Would you have any idea how it handles in the dark?

Also how far does the lens protrude into the body casing? As im using a CLS Clipin filter which sits directly behind the lens (Just in the slopping grove) Sigma lens are fine but EFS canon lens go to far in body and can't be used would you be able to tell me how far it goes in vs a typical sigma lens?

Muchos thanks!!

John B

[Lowell Goudge]

Hi, sorry to bump a 2month old thread but i have a question, Looking into getting one of these but i'd be mainly using it for astrophotography, Would you have any idea how it handles in the dark?

never tried....yet

Also how far does the lens protrude into the body casing? As im using a CLS Clipin filter which sits directly behind the lens (Just in the slopping grove) Sigma lens are fine but EFS canon lens go to far in body and can't be used would you be able to tell me how far it goes in vs a typical sigma lens?

Muchos thanks!!

John B

lens mount is the only thing that sticks into the camera, unless you count the aperture activation lever and the little shield around it

[fuuuuuu]

never tried....yet


lens mount is the only thing that sticks into the camera, unless you count the aperture activation lever and the little shield around it

Interesting, Thanks looks like i should be ok then Do you have one yourself?(Stupid question lol sorry i miss read!) Just curious how it'll handle in night time lengthy exposures I guess if you had to stop it down any more then 2.8 there'd not be much point me getting one, They are so much cheaper than an L series lens (Which i'll never afford )

Thanks for the super fast reply didn't expect it at all!

Edited!

[Miserere]

Lowell, a question about your VIvitar: Does the focus ring turn in the same direction as Pentax lenses?

I've seen photos of the Opteka/Bower/Samyang/Polar/etc. versions and they all do, but I haven't seen a photo of the Vivitar P/KA version.

[Lowell Goudge]

Infinity focus on the vivitar, from the perspective of being behind the camera is closkwise, and is the same as all my pentax lenses

[Miserere]

Infinity focus on the vivitar, from the perspective of being behind the camera is closkwise, and is the same as all my pentax lenses

That's good, because old Vivitar lenses focused in the other direction, like Canon

Thanks for the quick reply!

[WheresWaldo]

I too just got my Opteka 85mm f1.4 tonight. All I can say is that it is a nice piece of glass for a bargain price. I am not sure why anyone would buy the Vivitar version unless they are brand whores. The Opteka and Rokinon are identical and about 80-100 USD less.

I would post some pictures but it was late when UPS finally dropped it off and I did not have time to wipe the slobber off the lens to get some pictures before it was family time.

In short, not much on packaging, the lens bag is cheap, the hood even cheaper. The hood actually feels fragile. The focus ring is very stiff, but does turn smoothly. The detents on the aperture ring feel solid.

I was able to focus wide open rather easily with the standard K20D screen, I will replace the screen on my backup K20D with a split prism and see if it is even easier to focus, tomorrow.

It is a KA mount.

[alexfoto]

I have a question.
How is simple use this len (without using a split prism) to shoot subject in movement as for example the second shoot?

Someone could send more shoot even in difficult situation for understand how do in critical situation (as flare, chromatic aberration, etc)?

[Dark Woods]

I am wondering how this lens pairs up to the nikkor brand version? I see the cost is cheaper but is the lens compariable to the nikkor 85mm 1.8 version? Anyone have both or someone who has used both or tested them out. I would rather invest my money in nikkor only because it maybe a better portrait picture taker and softer, I think I have read most people say that about the nikkor version. thanks.

[Lowell Goudge]

I am wondering how this lens pairs up to the nikkor brand version? I see the cost is cheaper but is the lens compariable to the nikkor 85mm 1.8 version? Anyone have both or someone who has used both or tested them out. I would rather invest my money in nikkor only because it maybe a better portrait picture taker and softer, I think I have read most people say that about the nikkor version. thanks.

my brother in law has an 85mm nikon F1.8 AF lens. next time I see him, perhaps we can do a side by side, as I have the vivitar 85mm F1.4.

I'll let you see the results if and when I cand do the test.

[tcdk]

I have a question.
How is simple use this len (without using a split prism) to shoot subject in movement as for example the second shoot?

Well... between the very shallow DOF and the manual focus, it's kind of hard, but not much harder then AutoFocus. You have to motor the lens yourself, and with a bit of training you'll probably be better at predicting how to turn it then AF-C.

But if you have any kind of fast lens, try to put it in manual focus, and play with it. The first shots will be frustrating, but hopefully you'll quickly get the hang of it. I simply switch to AF-S, half-press and work the focus until I have a red square AF confirmation, and then I full press when I want to take the shot. If I've lost focus in the wait, I'll simply have to jiggle the focus a bit to get a new focus and the camera will fire.

Only thing I miss is the ability to select focus point, as I've started to use one of the side points as my main, to get more off-center compositions...