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04-22-2007, 02:36 PM   #16
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A tripod on a 27 foot boat? It has to be really really dead calm to work. I think your chances are better with handheld.

04-22-2007, 04:09 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by button Quote
I'll be on a 27 foot boat (no yacht by any stretch of the imagination), and we can get as close to the rig as we want. The waves inside the delta are usually negligible, so maybe a handheld shot with SR could work. I have a 31mm ltd, an FA 50mm 1:1.4, a 77mm ltd and an A* 85mm 1:1.4. Wide open, maybe I might have a chance of a fast exposure (given the amount of artificial light coming off of the rig) especially with the 31mm or the 50mm. The perspective at close range would be more desirable anyway, as I want the rig to look like it's towering over the viewer. Any of you folks ever taken night shots off of a boat? Any ideas for maximum stabilization?

John
John

The boat is a new twist, but you may wish to try someting I used to do with B&W film. Todays DSLRs will give much better results but the concept is th same.

I see others have also recommended an F1.4 lens. I used to go out with kodak tri-x (400 iso) but exposed at 3200 and an F1.4 50mm, then push the processing 3 stops.

You should consider the same approach here, take the fastest lens you have, then exopse at the highest ISO, with shake reduction on,

The shots may have a little noise, like my old photo's with grain, but it is the only real option when shooting from an unstable platform. You probably don't need to go below 1/30 of a second, and shake reduction will take care of you just fine.

You should go out with this setup just around town, or to some industrial areas (perhaps a refinery or other such complex) a few times to try things out and get the settings where you want them, DON'T go out without previous trials, and expect perfect results first time.
04-22-2007, 05:28 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by GaryML Quote
Well, you didn't state in your original post that you were going to be on a boat. That makes a huge difference. I have taken photos off a boat, but not past twilight.
Sorry my original post wasn't clear. I will have two options:

1) I might be able to get onto a stable structure, such as some rocks, and shoot from there- I like the bean bag idea, which should eliminate any kind of motion blur. The closest I can get to the rig from such a structure is probably 3-4 miles. If I can do this safely, I might even be able to pull off an HDR shot, as theoretically I would have a motionless camera with which to take the required bracketed shots. The perspective might not be what I want, however.

2) Shoot from the boat. I could certainly fine tune my perspective, but the wave motion will make the shot hit or miss.

This is certainly not an easy task, but the results could be pretty cool.
04-22-2007, 06:04 PM   #19
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it should be a fun trip for you.

6 weeks until my trip, and I can hardly wait.

04-22-2007, 07:47 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
John

The boat is a new twist, but you may wish to try someting I used to do with B&W film. Todays DSLRs will give much better results but the concept is th same.

I see others have also recommended an F1.4 lens. I used to go out with kodak tri-x (400 iso) but exposed at 3200 and an F1.4 50mm, then push the processing 3 stops.

You should consider the same approach here, take the fastest lens you have, then exopse at the highest ISO, with shake reduction on,

The shots may have a little noise, like my old photo's with grain, but it is the only real option when shooting from an unstable platform. You probably don't need to go below 1/30 of a second, and shake reduction will take care of you just fine.
Kodak T-Max TMZ 3200 is the low-light king. It is nominally rated at ISO 1600-3200 but you can push it 4 stops with usable results. That is an effective ISO of 51200. The results are quite grainy and a bit murky, but you do get a usable image. It is the best product available for low light, B&W work.
04-22-2007, 08:59 PM   #21
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I don't have a lens recommendation but you don't use SR on a tripod. And, either of the self-timer modes automatically turns it off because it assumes....you are on a tripod :-)
04-23-2007, 02:34 AM   #22
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Since you don't have such long lenses right now
- you normally don't use them
- you probably will not use after this trip
- you will have to buy one - but perhaps don't want to pay too much.

Since you don't want CAs I'd recommend to buy a mirror-lens.
Really short and light-weight for such focal lengths.
No CA.
But the OOF-rendering is very special - whether you like it or not. BUT since you mentioned to cathch the light I expect you'll go tzhere by night and you won't have so many OOF-objekcts visible....

Perhaps you'll llook for a Pentax mirror 400-600 mm?
As for my personal experiences:
Tokina as well as Tamron 8/500 are very good/sharp and better than most other.
If you can find one of the rare
- Sigma 8/600
- Vivitar 4.5/450 (expensive!)
they are told to be even better.

If you want AF....
I'd recommend to buy a -300mm-lens and crop afterwards.....
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