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07-02-2009, 11:31 AM   #1
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T-mount adaptor stuck on my K20D...not this next week!

Yep, I mounted the Rokinon 800mm with T-mount adaptor to my K20D this morning to take a few frames just like I do most mornings. I can't say that I noticed if it actually "clicked" into place or not but it was snug and all worked fine. Went to remove it and the top of the adaptor is hung up while the bottom is free. Rotating it back cannot achieve a "click" at this point . Its nice that I could unscrew the lens from the adaptor to get closeup and personal but can't see any of the parts that are hung. The Adaptor appears to have an inner and outer ring with very tiny recessed screws so I am off to search for a screwdriver kit that will fit...or use a grinder and make one. No idea if that will yield anything.

Any ideas area welcome. I have family events up the wazoo over the next 5 days and my rented DA*300 arrives in a week. Thanks in advance. I can post pics if that help but not much to see other than a 1/4" wide ribbed ring sitting on the camera that can be cocked up 1/8" on the bottom when rotated to the normal removal position.


07-02-2009, 11:44 AM   #2
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The inner ring screws onto the lens and the recessed screws allow you to rotate the inner ring within the outer ring so that the aperture and focusing marks can be aligned at the 12 o clock position. If you loosten the screws enough the inner ring will come out but it will not give you access to anything you couldn't see before.
I have no idea what might be causing it to stick but it is possible that pictures showing it with the botton hanging free may help (no guarantees though)
07-02-2009, 12:57 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by MattGunn Quote
The inner ring screws onto the lens and the recessed screws allow you to rotate the inner ring within the outer ring so that the aperture and focusing marks can be aligned at the 12 o clock position. If you loosten the screws enough the inner ring will come out but it will not give you access to anything you couldn't see before.
I have no idea what might be causing it to stick but it is possible that pictures showing it with the botton hanging free may help (no guarantees though)
Thanks Matt, you saved me a trip to find a screwdriver small enought to pull apart the rings. You want pics? I can do pics.

Extra pic shown at the end with ring screwed back on as tight as it goes (no click) so you can see how much rotation I now get from the first pic to the last.



In pic below the ring is only resting on the drive post and release post. There is a small gap.




Here it is screwed back on tight (but no click). Still shoots fine.


MY POOR BABY!!!!

Of ALL the lenses to be stuck with for family events! The Rok 800mm mirror! Thats it honey, back up, more...more...more...more...

Last edited by imtheguy; 07-02-2009 at 02:00 PM.
07-02-2009, 02:38 PM   #4
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It looks like the T mount is on the wrong way round. In the third photo, the notch at the back of the mount, just above and to the left of the RAW button, is where the locking pin should locate. This should be 180 deg round, near the lens release button. If it was not too snug when you put it on then it may be possible to get it off by wiggling it gently as you remove it. If it doesn't come reasonably easily then probably best to take it to a professional camera repairer as EXPENSIVE damage could be done if too much force is applied.
Good luck!

07-02-2009, 03:11 PM   #5
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I can't make out the red dot on the adaptor on either side from the 1/32" I have to work with. If the red dot is under that notch then I need to paint brighter dots on the adaptors. I am surprised that if true, it allows you to put it on 180 degrees out of positon. But nothing else makes sense. I think I will take a pic of the mount of all my lenses before I use them from now on! Ok, I will continue to wiggle it and curse and see if anybody else chimes in with miracle advice tonight. Thanks for the help, I will let you and the other T-mount users know how this turns out.

Bummed at the beach.
07-02-2009, 09:43 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by MattGunn Quote
It looks like the T mount is on the wrong way round. In the third photo, the notch at the back of the mount, just above and to the left of the RAW button, is where the locking pin should locate. This should be 180 deg round, near the lens release button. If it was not too snug when you put it on then it may be possible to get it off by wiggling it gently as you remove it. If it doesn't come reasonably easily then probably best to take it to a professional camera repairer as EXPENSIVE damage could be done if too much force is applied.
Good luck!
Matt, If I remove the outer ring I think I can loosen the screws indicated by 1/16" to provide the slack needed to reverse the adaptor. It looks like the ring will expose the screw heads. The part I dont know about is will it do any good to loosen the screws on the body. From examining enough pics, its obvious it cannot come off unless it is rotated 180 degrees from the partially off point. I wont start till late morning if you have some experience with this to throw my way. (dog needs another bone). Thanks.
07-02-2009, 10:17 PM   #7
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I have the pk(af) ring but should be the same. From the picture above the ring is 180 degree from proper installation. First put the drive in manual mode, not in af.s. Turn it slowly from lock position and wiggle it gently. Hope it works.
07-02-2009, 10:19 PM   #8
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I'm not sure if this is related but my third party m42-K adapter will actaully twist past the standard position if twisted (wth the lens) hard enough ..annnd not come out. Twisting it further to the 4-5 o'clock position and you can pull/wiggle it off the camera. Sounds brute I know.

Probably a similar problem with your T to K mount adapter. Dunno if you want to give it a shot or not but good luck!

07-02-2009, 10:27 PM   #9
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My T-mount adapter is not the same kind as yours. Loosening the screws on its edge allows the inner ring to come out, but like Matt said, is completely unhelpful. The outer ring is where the bayonet flanges are. I was also not able to get mine on wrong.

I think Matt's right about wiggling gently when turning. It looks like you get about 90 rotation now and you should only need another 30 to get the thing off. I don't know if anything else is likely to help.
07-02-2009, 10:30 PM   #10
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Denis - I had it in manual mode already with my anguished twisting and wiggling so I can't do much more with that.

I have about 85 degrees of freedom and it stops. At the normal tighten stop it really feels like a hard stop. Rotated ccw and because it can come partially off it give the illusion of being loose but the top still hits a hard stop. Sure would be nice to have a second unit to see what is going on...or may x-ray eyes.

Pete- yes, it sure sounds related, but if getting to 4-5 o'clock means cc not ccw it hit a stop i would need a pipe wrench to get by. Its tight down on the body at that point also. Of course, every time I look up the wait time for non-warranty repairs I twist a little HARDER.

Thanks for help guys. Keep thinking please.
07-02-2009, 10:32 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote

I think Matt's right about wiggling gently when turning. It looks like you get about 90 rotation now and you should only need another 30 to get the thing off. I don't know if anything else is likely to help.

30 more degrees in which direction? CC is not possible bare handed, CCW may be if I really get into it.

thanks.
07-02-2009, 10:51 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by imtheguy Quote
Denis - I had it in manual mode already with my anguished twisting and wiggling so I can't do much more with that.

I have about 85 degrees of freedom and it stops. At the normal tighten stop it really feels like a hard stop. Rotated ccw and because it can come partially off it give the illusion of being loose but the top still hits a hard stop. Sure would be nice to have a second unit to see what is going on...or may x-ray eyes.

Pete- yes, it sure sounds related, but if getting to 4-5 o'clock means cc not ccw it hit a stop i would need a pipe wrench to get by. Its tight down on the body at that point also. Of course, every time I look up the wait time for non-warranty repairs I twist a little HARDER.

Thanks for help guys. Keep thinking please.
I had a good look and all I can recommend is to press the ring against the body and slowly rotate. The notch in the ring would have to be at the 2 or 10 o'clock position.
07-02-2009, 11:19 PM   #13
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Happy days are here again. The adapter is off and probably going to get a good what fer from me tonight in the woodshed.

In spite of every suggestion and all the wiggling and rotating I could do there was no progress until I put the 12" of lens+metal hood back on. Now I had the leverage to either bend the flange or get lucky. I got lucky. With the bottom edge rotated so it was as loose as possible I just pushed the lens over so the bottom of the adapter popped out slowly followed by the top.

I'd rather be lucky than smart any day!

Thanks to all you folks that encouraged, analyzed, laughed and kept me from sending it off for 5-6 weeks.

Somehow when the problem broke 10hrs ago I ran to the forum and had confidence that would eventially get me through.

Last edited by imtheguy; 07-02-2009 at 11:42 PM.
07-02-2009, 11:23 PM   #14
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yes....i tested the cam with manual and AF lens and so far everbody slides on and off smooth and works like before. Like I said, lucky. I did a lot hard pushing. forget all that when i put it up for sale next year.
07-05-2009, 08:15 AM   #15
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Interesting, I just tried my T-adapter, it will fit in the bayonet mount 90 degrees ccw from the alignment marks.
Not going to turn it all the way and take a chance of getting it stuck how ever.

Looking at your pictures,I wonder what made the AF screw drive stick out the way it did?.
Clad you got it dismounted.

Cheers. Mike.
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