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12-19-2009, 04:37 PM   #211
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
So, some comments on your lens:
1. if you have lateral play in the tubes, that would by all probabilty account for the different OOF in different parts of the images. You could call it a severe case of astigmatism and test for it easily: Just look out out for a point-like light source (a very distant street light at night for instance) and than go through the focus and look, whether the light point has a slightly different shape in front or after the focal plane. Astiugmatism usually shows off like making a round point source (in focus) into an ellipsoidical shape which has different orientiations in front or behind the focal plane. This orientation is easily spoted. Ofcourse the best point source would be a bright star.
On close inspection the OOF area also shows camera shake. Viewing actual pixels there are two distinct lines at the edges of the chimney cap. These might not be quite so apparent in the rough brick margins. I will run the test routine on a light source, though, and report back.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
2. This kind of play seems to be quite common in these lenses. There are several tiny screws inside, which often come loose and account for that play. Have a look at the manual focus forum:
Manual Focus Forum / Pentax Super Takumar 500mm F4.5
which you may find helpful. Please read through the whole thread, as there have been some dead-ends in the repair quest!
Interesting reading! Well beyond me on a skills and tools basis, though.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
3. the optical performance of your particular performance is hard to judge from these photos. First the deteriotian by the window glas should not be underestimated! Secondly you have very visible camera shake in these images.
Absolutely agree. These were quick and dirty, no doubt. There is a large park nearby and with more light I should be able to do better.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
4. focusing needs quite a lot of trial and error - but rest assured, it improves over time. I needed really a couple of weeks, before I finally got acceptablöy sharp images.
I did notice my focusing improve over the series of images. Again, there just wasn't enough light to do so properly, plus I need to learn the exposure compensation that works best with this lens. I was too underexposed.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
5. the best further investment to get good images with that lens was a cheap gimbal mount, the Manfrotto MA393. It may not be up to the standard of a Wimberley, Jobu or Eki, but it works wonders with such a lens. I have it attached permamanelty on an otherwise obsolete MA 055.
Yeah, I'll have to do that, most likely. Expecting this tripod resting on a dining room floor to be stable was just too much, I guess.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
Ben
As long as this lens can be made well I'm content. Having read through the MF Forum thread and done some other reading I believe things can be tightened up. I emailed Eric for his opinion. The seller also contacted me with advice.

This opens a whole new part of the hobby for me. I certainly didn't expect a 40-ish-year-old lens to be perfect the first time, nor did I expect to nail focus and exposure right away.

The challenge to get this right is intriguing, and I'm narrowing the aspects of photography that I want to concentrate on. I guess I just added birds and other living things in candid environments to the list.

I think we will see my equipment list change (and shrink) in the future .


Last edited by monochrome; 12-19-2009 at 06:44 PM.
12-19-2009, 04:55 PM   #212
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Nice pickup Paul! I'm also having some of the same issues as yourself, with my new K500/4.5.

I ended up getting a Manfrotto 808RC4 3-axis pan & tilt head for mine. This will also support my next craving the K1000/8.

Enjoy,
Phil.
12-19-2009, 05:02 PM   #213
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Ah, I see one of the forum's experts was able to provide some feedback as well. Should have checked here before relpying to the PM so I wouldn't have duplicated part of what's been said.

I've been shooting with the 1000mm a little bit as well. I need to rework my Gitzo Studex with Wimberly knock-off gimbal head a bit. As is, it handles the 500mm well, but I'm getting some major vibrations with the 1000mm. Half my shots are from inside with the tripod on carpet, but it seems to be more to it than that. Time to put a hook under the tripod to add some weight, get 10 ft of bungee cord and support the legs better for me. We'll see if that's enough.
12-19-2009, 05:46 PM   #214
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QuoteOriginally posted by gofour3 Quote
Nice pickup Paul! I'm also having some of the same issues as yourself, with my new K500/4.5.

I ended up getting a Manfrotto 808RC4 3-axis pan & tilt head for mine. This will also support my next craving the K1000/8.

Enjoy,
Phil.
I certainly will, thank you. This will force me to shoot because it doesn't fit on my shelf . One honking big lens cap.
QuoteOriginally posted by tvfd911 Quote
Ah, I see one of the forum's experts was able to provide some feedback as well. Should have checked here before relpying to the PM so I wouldn't have duplicated part of what's been said.
Thanks for the PM Reply Eric. What a wonderful forum where the seller responds with coaching and instruction on how to use the item. Bad for me if I thought I could just slap a big lens on and get sharp images (I knew better). We'll get there.
QuoteOriginally posted by tvfd911 Quote
I've been shooting with the 1000mm a little bit as well. I need to rework my Gitzo Studex with Wimberly knock-off gimbal head a bit. As is, it handles the 500mm well, but I'm getting some major vibrations with the 1000mm. Half my shots are from inside with the tripod on carpet, but it seems to be more to it than that. Time to put a hook under the tripod to add some weight, get 10 ft of bungee cord and support the legs better for me. We'll see if that's enough.
Another thing tor remember for tomorrow.


Last edited by monochrome; 12-19-2009 at 06:45 PM.
12-19-2009, 06:46 PM   #215
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QuoteOriginally posted by tvfd911 Quote
I'm getting some major vibrations with the 1000mm. Half my shots are from inside with the tripod on carpet, but it seems to be more to it than that. Time to put a hook under the tripod to add some weight, get 10 ft of bungee cord and support the legs better for me. We'll see if that's enough.
I had the same problem with my 1000mm: the thing is so freakin' long, that any vibration is a big deal. I'd been using Manfrotto 055XB legs but found a used 3036 and it made a world of difference!
12-19-2009, 11:35 PM   #216
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QuoteOriginally posted by deadwolfbones Quote
I'm gonna go ahead and make a vow that if I end up reselling it here on the marketplace it'll be substantially below market value (if market value is anything like what Peter indicates).

Wish it came with one of the wooden tripods they originally came with!

Here's a question, though...

I just bought a Kenko 1.5x TC (K-mount, obviously). Can this lens be coupled with a K-mount TC if it's wearing a M42->K-Mount adapter?
Of course. Put the K-mount TC on the camera, then the adapter, then the lens. If you have an M42 TC, The adapter goes on the camera, then the TC then the lens.

All of the above pre-supposes that you have a genuine Pentax adapter, not one of those that won't allow you to focus to infinity.

[Edit] I use the Manfrotto 055B aluminum legs and 168 ball head. I'm getting up to the vibration limits when I use the F 1.7X AF on the back of my 400. Here are the things I do to help, all of which you probably know already:
  1. The tripod must be sitting on something solid, like a granite part of a Rocky Mountain. No dirt, no gravel, no rugs; solid rock/concrete etc.
  2. Drape my camera bag (LowePro Trekker) over the top of the legs to add weight. It contains at least five lenses and one of the TCs - I've never had the guts to use both at once.
  3. Hold my hand firmly on the tripod mount section of the lens, or use a sand bag to dampen any vibrations.
  4. Use mirror lockup if possible.
  5. Wait for the wind to go down. In this area, that can take a month or two, so I don't do this one much. I do stand between the camera and the wind, or put the rig up on the lee side of something whenever possible.
  6. Use remote or cable release.
  7. Increase ISO to 400 or even 800 (I use a K10D) to get the shutter speed up.

Last edited by Canada_Rockies; 12-19-2009 at 11:48 PM. Reason: Added tripod tips
12-20-2009, 12:22 AM   #217
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Bit late to the party there, man, but thanks for the info!
12-20-2009, 08:58 AM   #218
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QuoteOriginally posted by monochrome Quote
As long as this lens can be made well I'm content. Having read through the MF Forum thread and done some other reading I believe things can be tightened up. I emailed Eric for his opinion. The seller also contacted me with advice.

This opens a whole new part of the hobby for me. I certainly didn't expect a 40-ish-year-old lens to be perfect the first time, nor did I expect to nail focus and exposure right away.

The challenge to get this right is intriguing, and I'm narrowing the aspects of photography that I want to concentrate on. I guess I just added birds and other living things in candid environments to the list.
Yes, you can be absolutely sure, that any defect in that lens can be fixed without too much effort. The construction is old-fashioned: simple and robust. It takes a lot more, than just a couple of loose screws to do it any harm.

The lens is great for birds, once you get used to focussing. It is slower than AF or modern lenses with IF, but it works. Focus with open aperture and step down for the shot. You need f/8 or better f/11 to have any DOF at all, sufficient to get the full bird into sharp view, but our current Pentaxes are really good enough at ISO 800 or slightly above, to use slow apertures with fast shutter speeds.

Ben

12-20-2009, 11:45 AM   #219
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
Yes, you can be absolutely sure, that any defect in that lens can be fixed without too much effort. The construction is old-fashioned: simple and robust. It takes a lot more, than just a couple of loose screws to do it any harm.

. . . .

Ben
Thanks Ben (and Eric - tvfd911) for your comments. I really like the old manual lenses as examples of superior 60's and 70's industrial engineering, from a time when simplicity was a virtue and maintenance was part of ownership - necessary to make something last far longer than we expect today.

I know this sounds a bit odd, but a significant part of my motivation to learn how to photograph (a choice I made) is to use these old mechanical tools as they were designed. That means I will eventually use the lens with my film bodies - using the K10D to practice at zero cost for consumables.

The K bodies and MESuper are easier to focus with anyway

I JUST replaced the Maytag washer and dryer set that my grandmother gave us as a wedding present in 1980. Our repairman told us the bearings for both drive motors had gone out and were no longer manufactured. He also said we could expect to replace their replacement in 6 to 8 years.

If one considers the loss of longevity of the capital items we purchase (including camera gear) then the "low" inflation we think we have enjoyed the last 15 years has actually been much higher.

Last edited by monochrome; 12-20-2009 at 08:31 PM.
12-20-2009, 01:45 PM   #220
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QuoteOriginally posted by monochrome Quote
If one considers the loss of longevity of the capital items we purchase (including camera gear) then the "low" inflation we think we have enjoyed the last 15 years has actually been much higher.
But that's not called "inflation", it's called "consumer spending"...

I have still my Onkyo M505 power amp running, bought in about 1979, my Akai Reel-to-Reel is even older, the old Graflex Crown Graphic I use, is from 1962 and my oldest Apo lens is probably from the 1930s (a Schneider-Kreuznach Apochromatic Claron 600/9) an in superb condition. Some things were really better in the past, though I am generally not a nostalgic person.

Ben
12-30-2009, 11:05 PM   #221
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QuoteOriginally posted by dadipentak Quote
Great! And I can report that I've been consulted by another PF member who's looking into the acquisition of an SMC f8 1000mm. It's good to see these big ol' lenses continue to have a following.
Well I took the plunge today and finalized my purchase of a K1000/8 from a “bricks & mortar” camera store in England. I saved a lot on the final price, due to not having to pay the VAT because I live outside the EU.

The other good news was the store did a CLA on the lens, so hopefully it should be good to go mechanically/optically.

Now I have to just wait for the lens to cross the Atlantic!! (It’s coming via DHL, so will be here sometime late next week.)

Phil.
12-31-2009, 05:21 AM   #222
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Congratulations, Phil!
12-31-2009, 11:12 AM   #223
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That's truly exciting Phil. How many of the K lenses do you now need (which of the K lenses do you now need) to complete the family?
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