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10-09-2009, 01:54 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentxfun Quote
Yes please, if u can take some photos of shiny metal things would be great ! tell me how is going with purple fringing.
I'll make some shots with both lenses this afternoon when I get home and use my girlfriends jewelry as subject . I'll post them as soon as possible.

I didn't notice any purple fringing with the Tamron, except on 2 shots I made with a 2X TC and very clear background.

Try to avoid white backgrounds, or backgrounds that will produce a high contrast with the subject. This will strongly increase risk of purple (and other) fringing. Like here:

10-09-2009, 07:15 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentxfun Quote
Thanks for all your inputs guys, really appreciated.

It seems that for this kind of photos 90 mm tamron would be a better choice.

What is in my mind at the moment.
In the link (thanks Dave) someone wrote that
>The Tamron 90 (which I have) has the purple fringe thing, very noticeable on jewelry as I have found out.<
...
I have almost decided to buy tamron but confused again..
Main reason why id like to buy a new macro lens, shooting things like rings necklaces gemstones etc.
These things are really tiny, about 3 to 10mm diameter.
Landscape or any other thing just would be optional.
That sigma 70 macro lens is 40 % more expensive than tamron or pentax lenses.
Is that lens so good worth that 40 % ?

K20d and love it !
Yes please, if u can take some photos of shiny metal things would be great ! tell me how is going with purple fringing.

(Well at least if i buy the 35 mm ill stay loyal to the pentax brand.)

peter
Around here (North America), most of the Macro lenses we are discussing are very close in price. Anyways, any dedicated Macro lens your budget allows will be an improvement over the 18-55II.
10-09-2009, 07:17 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by ezechiel Quote

Try to avoid white backgrounds, or backgrounds that will produce a high contrast with the subject. This will strongly increase risk of purple (and other) fringing.
Same advice applies to specular reflections on metallic objects, or any overexposed highlight.
10-09-2009, 11:40 AM   #19
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So, here are the shots..

It seems that I made a mistake about the choice for jewelry..

90mm f2.8 1/160 iso 100
Name:  90mm f8.jpg
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90mm f8 2sec ISO100
Name:  90mm f22.jpg
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35mm f8 1sec ISO400
Name:  35mm f8.jpg
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35mm f22 1sec ISO400
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90mm with 3 extension tubes (EXIF says 35mm but this must be a bug.. turned camera off, attached extension tubes + lens, turned on and directly half-pressed the shutter, so it didn't propose to choose focal lenght).

so: 90mm + XT 1,2,3 f2.8 or 8(don't remember) ISO 400
Name:  90mm 3tubes.jpg
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All pictures had built-in flash on while holding a white/creamy sheet in front of it to limit reflections on the ring. They were all taken as close as possible (lens limit).

A tripod is definitely needed for shooting jewelry. I did it handheld but it wasn't easy.

Some reflectors and maybe some spots are also needed for correct lighting.
If you want to put the whole front of a jewel in DOF, you need small aperture, so more light. f2.8 is just too wide and only permits a small part of the jewel to be in the DOF.
This is really precision photography.. thought it would be easier (it would be with a tripod!!)

I guess, if you want real close-ups, the Tamron 90mm is THE choice. Except if you have some extension tubes that control aperture. Mine don't


Last edited by ezechiel; 10-10-2009 at 03:49 AM.
10-09-2009, 01:15 PM   #20
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i own both lenses and took two 2 really quick snapshots with them.
i used my crappy lightbox and a flash on the left side. the shots were handheld, hence the composition of the 2 pics is different (as is the point of focus)

if i find the time. i'll take better/more comparable shots tomorrow and post them here.

the images are straight out of the cam, i just compressed them with photoshop to get the filesize down. both are @ f8 and 1/180sec.

da 35


tamron 90


with the 35, you have to get really close if you want to get 1:1 magnification.
this could result in problems with lighting because the lens could cast a shadow on the object you want to photograph if the light comes from the wrong angle.
but if you dont need 1:1 magnification this should not be too big of a problem.

with the tamron you have a much better/comfortable working distance, even at 1:1.

the build quality of the 35 is clearly better than that of the 90. (which doesn't mean the build quality of the tamron is bad, it's made of plastic, but it doesn't wobble or anything)

i'd say:
if you want an all-round lens, get the 35.
if you want a macro and portrait lens, get the tamron.
10-09-2009, 04:02 PM   #21
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Original Poster
Great stuff !
Relief i cant see any purple things on the photos.
Yes of course i use tripod all the time.
Your 90mm f8 2sec ISO100 and 90mm + XT looks like macro distance to me.
With 35 mm i dont know...u could have shot more closely hadnt u? or is that the maximum distance ?
i mean so close as with the tamron +XT
Btw why is 35mm f8 lighter than f22 ? isnt it vice versa ?
The goldwatch is also great thanks shadeless
It seems sharper with 35mm to me, what do u think ? but the tamron is also sharp enough i guess,
at least sharper both than my kit lens.
Ill be glad to post some photos (with my new lens hopefully whichever it is)
it will be a step forward as dave said before
Great helps around here for a newbie like me
Thanks for your time and effort guys !
10-10-2009, 03:49 AM   #22
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About f8 and f22, yeah, I mixed them up I'll fix that.
For the 90mm, you can clearly see the difference between the two DOFs if you look at the desk. Macro lenses have a really shallow DOF.

About the 35mm, I really couldn't get closer. The lens was extended at it's maximum and I almost touched the ring. And shadeless is totally right about the 35mm and the lighting. The light source must be well placed (not as in my shots ).

If you use extension tubes or a bellow with the 35mm, you could get greater magnification but mine don't have aperture control, so I could hardly distinguish the ring. Just not enough light.

The Tamron is also quite sharp. I shot in manual focus without tripod, so maybe that could be the reason. If you move only 1mm, it can make a difference.

I think you can get greater magnification with the Tamron (standard setup). And the aperture ring permits you to buy cheap extension tubes or bellow.

Is my 5th shot more what you are looking for?
10-10-2009, 11:37 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by ezechiel Quote
If you use extension tubes or a bellow with the 35mm, you could get greater magnification but mine don't have aperture control,...
Extension tube and bellow can't be used with lens without aperture ring. They can be used but you'll shoot at full aperture (or smallest aperture, I don't remember).

Also, extension tube and bellow do not perform any optical trick. They only allow the lens to go further from the sensor, thus allow closer focusing. But for the 35mm, this does not help because at macro setting (say 1:1), the front of the lens already (almost) touches the object. Focusing with the lens even further out requires the object to be behind the front of the lens

10-10-2009, 07:20 PM   #24
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Soldbear,

Bellows and extension rings do in fact allow for greater than 1:1 magnification depending on the lens and amount of extension used.
10-10-2009, 08:11 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Blue Quote
Soldbear,

Bellows and extension rings do in fact allow for greater than 1:1 magnification depending on the lens and amount of extension used.
I've never said that they don't.

I have 4 extension tubes and a Pentax bellows kit. I know.
10-10-2009, 08:23 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by SOldBear Quote
I've never said that they don't.

I have 4 extension tubes and a Pentax bellows kit. I know.
You never said they did either:

QuoteOriginally posted by SOldBear Quote
. .

Also, extension tube and bellow do not perform any optical trick. They only allow the lens to go further from the sensor, thus allow closer focusing. . . .
I was merely clarifying that. Allowing closer focus is not the only reason for using a bellows and/or extension tube setup.
10-11-2009, 12:41 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by SOldBear Quote
Extension tube and bellow can't be used with lens without aperture ring. They can be used but you'll shoot at full aperture (or smallest aperture, I don't remember).
Indeed, you can but it will be the smallest aperture.
Why don't they make lenses the other way??

The manual of the pentax extension tubes says that you can use a 35mm, but maybe for non macro lenses or zoom lenses... I tested with a 28mm macro but the object had to be at about 1mm from the front lens or even touch it to be in focus.

Anyways. If you want greater magnification, I think the Tamron will be better.
For the rest, shadeless made a good summary.
11-05-2009, 06:37 AM   #28
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Any news from pentxfun? I wonder which choice (s)he made..
11-05-2009, 07:18 AM   #29
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35mm or 90mm macro....

I have 3 macro lenses: 180mm, 105mm, and 35mm.
The 180mm offers a very comfortable distance to work with (approximately 46 cm).
The 105mm requires smaller distances (approximately 30 cm).
The 35mm macro lens requires even smaller distances (approximately 13 cm)
, many time the lens itself blocks the light. At 1:1, the hood virtually almost touches the object.
Different working distances, but also produce different perspectives!
The working distances for macro lenses are based on the sensor plane!

Regards,
Hartmut from Germany
11-05-2009, 07:53 AM   #30
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If looking for a dedicated macro lens, the 90mm focal length is probably a better choice (60 or 70mm is ideal all around macro lens with APS-C). However, if looking for a more versatile and all purpose lens, the DA35 is the way to go. I have a 100mm macro and use is exclusivly for that purpose, however, my DA35 gets more usage overall as I use it as a standard lens that can focus to 1 to 1 when needed. A really superb lens!
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