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12-18-2009, 03:33 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Sabatella Quote
Like I said, it's all personal. I use my third finger for the shutter, and love the easy combination of Green button and shutter release. Although I also find it not very important, since I hit the shutter *way* more often than the the Green button in manual mode, and I essentially never need to do this very quickly - I almost always meter long before I take my shot. Whereas the OK button that I use to cancel AF - when I need that, I usually need it *fast*. Yes, I'm talking about AF lenses, but I like my shooting process to be as close to the same either way.
It's an interesting insight into how others use the buttons, so thanks. I'm used to using my index finger on the shutter release; something which is kind of reinforced by using a mouse every day!

QuoteQuote:
I'm confused abut the process you describe, though. Why are you half pressing the shutter before metering with a manual lens? That doesn't serve any useful purpose I can think of, except to tie up your finger needlessly.
Because if you pause for a while between shots, the camera goes into power save mode and you need ot half depress the shutter release to wake it up.

QuoteQuote:
The normal sequence of events would go hit green button to meter - often *long* before the exposure - then focus, then shoot.
It depends on the circumstances. Where I've been photographing birds, I'm walking around an area grabbing opportunities when I see them. I'm not using a chair hide, although sometimes I'm in a permanent hide. So there may be a long gap between photos, and therefore the camera goes into standby.

QuoteQuote:
Again, I think this ceases to seem like an awnward thing if you don't insist on goign through that process just vefore every shot. It really is not necessary, and shooting becomes greatly simplified once you stop doing that.
It's not necessary for every shot. But if you have a bird that is moving through trees, especially where it may be backlit, you can't easily get the right exposure from the tree or shrub itself. I can see how the process you describe would work where the subject is out in the open or not moving, and the lighting is reasonably consistent. Of course, these problems are only present where I'm using the mirror lens.

By the way I tried the mirror lens on the Chinon and yes the split image doesn't work very well on a dull day. I'll try it again on a sunny day. It's a shame, because the DOF of the mirror and lack of aperture adjustment makes the focus so critical. The K200 viewfinder is not as bright as it could be.

Rob

12-18-2009, 07:41 AM   #17
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I would sell the Promaster and mirror and get a DA 55-300. I'd bring the long zoom, 16-45 and a fast prime or two on the trip.

If you're semi-interested in macro, get a Raynox 150 and use it on the long zoom. If you're more interested in macro, the D FA 100mm is a great, compact macro/mid-range telephoto
12-18-2009, 04:55 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
I would sell the Promaster and mirror and get a DA 55-300. I'd bring the long zoom, 16-45 and a fast prime or two on the trip.
Is the image quality from a 55-300 really that good? In the past I've avoided zooms with a really wide range in the belief that the image quality would suffer in the compromise to get the range of focal lengths. The Promaster is quite an OK lens, fast to focus but the contrast seems low.

QuoteQuote:
If you're semi-interested in macro, get a Raynox 150 and use it on the long zoom. If you're more interested in macro, the D FA 100mm is a great, compact macro/mid-range telephoto
Thanks for the suggestions! I'll have to look up the Raynox 150.

Rob
12-18-2009, 07:40 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by RobG Quote
Is the image quality from a 55-300 really that good? In the past I've avoided zooms with a really wide range in the belief that the image quality would suffer in the compromise to get the range of focal lengths. The Promaster is quite an OK lens, fast to focus but the contrast seems low.
The 55-300 punches above its weight class. Just do a search here and you'll see, it outperforms the competition (Tamron and Sigma 70-300mm). It's main strengths: superior colour and contrast and sharp at 300mm, even wide open. There's a thread in this forum somewhere that compares a 55-300 cropped to a 500mm fov vs a mirror lens and the Pentax has better IQ. Should be a much better match with your K20D.

QuoteOriginally posted by RobG Quote
Thanks for the suggestions! I'll have to look up the Raynox 150.
You're very welcome. Have a look at this thread.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/74221-raynox-macro-club.html

12-18-2009, 10:01 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by RobG Quote
Is the image quality from a 55-300 really that good? In the past I've avoided zooms with a really wide range in the belief that the image quality would suffer in the compromise to get the range of focal lengths. The Promaster is quite an OK lens, fast to focus but the contrast seems low.


Rob
I took this shot with the 55-300 at 300mm in a concert. I don't know if the IQ on this one is acceptable enough for you to consider the lens. I didn't do any sharpening tweaks here btw. actually, I even decreased the sharpness at -1 (in-camera jpeg custom setting).

12-18-2009, 11:12 PM   #21
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Bing deal

Here's a deal on the 55-300mm, $272.80 + tax.
Pentax DA 55-300 deal: 5% + 20% off and free shipping: Pentax SLR Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review
12-18-2009, 11:34 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
Excellent deal - except I live in Australia and I'm about to go to Japan. I don't know that I could get the same deal for export, but it gives me a price point I can use to judge the prices in Japan. I'll certainly be considering the 55-300 to replace the Promaster. I'm tempted to leave the Promaster here and just take the 16-45 to Japan, then bring the 55-300 back...

Rob
01-16-2010, 09:08 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by RobG Quote
Excellent deal - except I live in Australia and I'm about to go to Japan. I don't know that I could get the same deal for export, but it gives me a price point I can use to judge the prices in Japan. I'll certainly be considering the 55-300 to replace the Promaster. I'm tempted to leave the Promaster here and just take the 16-45 to Japan, then bring the 55-300 back...
I ended up not buying the 55-300 in Japan because although the price was cheaper than Australia, it wasn't as cheap as the US. The only lens I bought in the end was the 35mm f2.8 limited. My next purchase is likely to be a K7 or its successor so I can retire my MiniDV video camera.

Thanks again for all the suggestions!

Rob

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