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02-12-2010, 09:38 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Stringmike Quote
The second option is a light trigger. Lightning is quite a long-duration event and can involve a number of successive discharges. A sensitive light trigger that fires the camera when a light pulse is sensed can work quite well in daylight.

Google away!

That makes sense Mike,
With a little work I can see where a slave sensor like this one can be modified to work, using the cameras remote plugin.

02-13-2010, 12:02 AM   #17
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Everyone has you squared away on the light issue. But to answer your original question, there are some lenses that go beyond 32. The A 400mm f5.6 goes to 45. So do the K and M 400mm f5.6 lenses but are optically different than the A. The FA 400mm and the SMC 500mm f4.5 both go to 45 as well.

Another way to achieve that is to use a 1.4x or 2x tc.
02-13-2010, 04:53 AM   #18
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the triggers aren't available for the k-x sadly mike.

although i'm a fan of the filter concept! trigger would be like cheating. i reckon lightning photography is like fishing - first you gotta find it, then you gotta coax it out, be in the right spot, then of course you gotta land it!..

atleast now i know that a filter is the solution, not another lens.. though deejjjaaaa mentions the 24-135 which looks like a pretty sweet lens after looking at the post your pictures thread today.
02-13-2010, 05:12 AM   #19
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Small aperture lenses:
Itorex pan focus lens f/40 fixed - basically a pinhole lens with a bit of glass
Home made pin hole lens about f/200

With ND filter you mey need to get a few to cover a range of densities or so that they can be stacked for really long exposures. An alternative is to get a couple of polarizers. Put one straight on the lens and the other one over the first. If you rotate the second one relative to the first you have acontinuously variable ND filter which should be able to block out between about 75% and 99.999% of the incoming light. The second (outer) polarizer must be a linear polarizer. The first one could be linear or circular but if you are focussing to infinity and using manual exposure there is no advantage in using a circular polarizer.

06-06-2012, 07:23 PM   #20
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Itorex lens

Dumb question, but, Do you HAVE one of the Itorex lenses? Looking for one?
06-07-2012, 02:58 AM   #21
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f/45 makes no sense. Image quality starts to degrade around f/8 for the pixel pitch of current Pentax cameras.
ND filters are what you want to reduce the amount of light, but stick around f/8 for image quality - use manual focus. You can easily see this checking f/22 or f/32 and comapring to f/8 shots. Connecting the camera to a light sensor makes sense, capturing lighting by manual exposure will be tricky.

A pinhole makes even less sense regarding image quality. The effective aperture is typically around f/70 or f/100 and image quality is really low.
06-07-2012, 04:59 AM   #22
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The 18-55WR goes down to F38 at the long end. And you can leave it out in the rain. Sorted! Better hope that it doesn't get struck by lightning.

Joking aside, found this:
Lightning Photography Lightning Activated Camera Shutter Trigger Canon Nikon Sony Pentax Lightning Triggers Photo Tips Lightning Photo Lightning Picture Techniques Advice Help Lightening

and this:
Viktor's DIY: Zeus: Lightning Trigger for Cameras

When you go below F32, the gaps between stops start getting kinda large. One stop below F32 is F44 and one stop below that is F64. You're going to struggle to lose light by stopping down! And, as everyone points out, your pictures will probably come out crappy.

Manual focus, filter and bulb exposure might get you some decent shots. Manual focus, mirror lock-up and remote trigger might work too, depending on your luck and tolerance to getting rained on.

Last edited by top-quark; 06-07-2012 at 05:20 AM.
06-09-2012, 11:59 AM   #23
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Singh-Ray have nd filter reducing light with up to 8 stops.

Singh-Ray Filters: Vari-ND Variable Neutral Density Filter

Last edited by Pål Jensen; 06-09-2012 at 12:43 PM.

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