[little laker]

When I'm reversing a lens for some closeup work it's my M-series 50mm f2.0 that I'll reach for first.
The reason why is it gives me the nicest consistent results.. like this.

here's a cropped version.


I've tried my Super Tak 50mm f1.4, along with my Super Tak 35mm f1.4 + several other lenses with it. Although most other lenses give me more magnification I've found that their DOF is often reduced to an almost un-usable level

[aliasant]

I've found similar using a SMC M 50mm 1.7 reversed.
Im not 100% sure but I think this was reversed after a SMC F 35-70 3.5 with autofocus.

Pentax Kx used with Flash.
First image is scaled down and second is a 100% crop.

[little laker]

I've found similar using a SMC M 50mm 1.7 reversed.
Im not 100% sure but I think this was reversed after a SMC F 35-70 3.5 with autofocus.

Nice pic aliasant,
Although i've never even touched the 50mm f1.7 i've heard so many good things about it. I've also heard that it has teh same Optical formula as my 55mm f1.8, which I was also very impressed with reversed. However i wasn't able to find the 52mm reverse adapter when I was looking
We have some hidden somewhere in the lab where I work, so that may change soon.

[aliasant]

Thanx
1 good picture from countless attempts

I have been trying to find the right formula using 2 lenses. First something slightly bigger and then the reversed 50mm but I cant quite get it right.

Today I have been trying to put a 100 2.8 SMC first and then the reverse but that gets me a bit to close.
I have this test object (2 springs from a trashed camera placed together) and it has a size that mimics a "standard" bug.
Im trying to achieve 3 things I think.

1: Keep some distance to the object. Ideal would be about 100mm's.
2: Catch the entire bug and just a little more. Maybe the pictures real size could be about 30 x 20 mm's
3: Get as wide DOF as possible.

Its really hard and Im not there yet..... and the damn spring is comin...

I have a 55 2.0 and I really like that one too. havnt tried the 1.8 though.

[ilya80]

Its really hard and Im not there yet..... and the damn spring is comin...

I can assure you that you are getting quite nice results out of your combo. The last photo is impressive.

can you please describe what settings do you use when shooting your reversed macro setup ? I mean focal length the zoom is set to, apertures set on both lenses, what is flash set to?

Thanks in advance.

[aliasant]

TY

I have several different "main" lenses that I use between the reversed 50mm and the camera but Ill tell you about the oe I used for that shot.

The reversed 50mm 1.7 is wide open at infinity. Focusing that one wont do much difference.

For the shot I had my plastic SMC F 35-70 at 70 and I think I had it stopped at 16 but I cant be sure. That lense has a semi macro mode that can be engaged after the 70 position by that will actually zoom back out again and not get you any closer. That is when using a reversed prime infront.

Flash I use is an old Pentax AF240FT set at High Manual.
The shot was taken indoors and fairly dark. Some daylight sipping in but not much.

When I used my SMC 100 2.8 instead of the F Zoom I got alot closer. Couldnt even get the entire "fake bug" in the picture. Maybe a good combo if shooting acarids?

Another more conventional method I think was using the SMC 100 F4 Macro with extension tubes. That actually turned out pretty nice but I need new tubes. Mine are broken Also that made the whole lense combo more then 300mm and very unpractical.

I need to get Extension tubes to use with my F Zoom. Not even sure if Auto Zoom would work with extension tubes?

[pacerr]

Thanx

Today I have been trying to put a 100 2.8 SMC first and then the reverse but that gets me a bit to close.

1: Keep some distance to the object. Ideal would be about 100mm's.

No practical combination of stacked-reversed lens is going to give you the stand-off distance and enlargement ratio you seem to be seeking.

Imagine a lens about 1 1/2 inches from the film plane/sensor and focused at infinity, or even at its closest focus distance. Reversing the lens essentially turns that condition around and has very specific limits of practical usefulness as you're discovering.

I'd recommend you explore extension rings or bellows with the 100mm lens for less frustration.

H2

[little laker]

TY

I have several different "main" lenses that I use between the reversed 50mm and the camera but Ill tell you about the oe I used for that shot.

The reversed 50mm 1.7 is wide open at infinity. Focusing that one wont do much difference.

For the shot I had my plastic SMC F 35-70 at 70 and I think I had it stopped at 16 but I cant be sure. That lense has a semi macro mode that can be engaged after the 70 position by that will actually zoom back out again and not get you any closer. That is when using a reversed prime infront.

Flash I use is an old Pentax AF240FT set at High Manual.
The shot was taken indoors and fairly dark. Some daylight sipping in but not much.

When I used my SMC 100 2.8 instead of the F Zoom I got alot closer. Couldnt even get the entire "fake bug" in the picture. Maybe a good combo if shooting acarids?

Another more conventional method I think was using the SMC 100 F4 Macro with extension tubes. That actually turned out pretty nice but I need new tubes. Mine are broken Also that made the whole lense combo more then 300mm and very unpractical.

I need to get Extension tubes to use with my F Zoom. Not even sure if Auto Zoom would work with extension tubes?

aliasant,
One thing I was thinking of trying, but haven't yet is taking the glass out of some junk filters. With the idea, that when I want to get closer while reversed just adding these rings should allow it. Basically like a short extension tube.
I'm thinking, that if it works we may be able to almost fine tune the distance

[aliasant]

I have played around with that same idea but have no idea were to start.
Sounds a bit like a great way to destroy several lenses til you find the right way
I have heard of others making their own lenses for macro with great results but were to start?
How do you calculate optics? Hmmm. My old dad is an opitian. Hes comin to visit ne on wednesday. Ill see if i can get some ideas from him.

[aliasant]

Lol. Just saw your filter ring test post. Its still early for me....
Guess i missunderstood you . Thought you ment using glass from old lenses.

[RolloR]

im also using my A50/1.7 for reversed macro. The reason is I don't currently have ring couplers and the 49mm filter of the pentax lens fits perfectly on my other 52mm lenses in normal position :-)

K-x, pre-AI Nikkor 50mm F1.4 with reversed SMC Pentax-A 50 1.7:


yeah i know, yuck

you can also pixel peep with a reversed lens:

[aliasant]

Not yuck
That first is pretty cool! Maybe not great as a portrait but still. Very very sharp with lots of details. Nice bokeh too.
Any PP on that one?

Just reread you post. So that is with 2 50mms?
Hmm. I have 2 smc 50 1.7
Should perhaps try to use both...

[aliasant]

That Nikkor doesnt really fit on the kx right?
My guess is you had to force it in?
Also the distance isnt correct for that lense but maybe that works in your advantage?
I think Nikkor is 46.5 and pentax 45.6 so there is a small difference.

Have you tried it the other way?
First the SMC 50 and then the reversed Nikkor?

[RolloR]

the nikkor fits just alright with the k-x it does not lock though.

I've yet to try the 2 50's the other way around, though i think they'll just yield to very similar results. I'm not using a male-male reverse lens coupler, I'm hand-holding the reversed lens, so it's quite easier to hand-hold the smaller, lighter pentax 50 lol.

[aliasant]

I tried to replicate the shot I took yesterday but I couldnt really.
Ended up shooting with my 100mm Macro and a 21mm extensionring and that gave similar sharp results with good DOF but not as close. Adding more extension rings makes it to long and unbalanced.

Not sure about using a bellows. Seems unpractical when peeping thru leafs and branches or?

Im used to getting really really close. My little Samsung S850 had a supermacro that lets you shoot with the bug practically sitting on the lense.
Fun but hard.

I guess the only way to really find a method is to be out there testing all options for a week or so. Planning on doing that soon hopefully.