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04-05-2010, 03:44 PM   #31
Ira
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I say no. That's throwing good money after bad.

Find the situations where it can work for you, consider it a lesson, and move on.

Out of curiosity, when you look at your original post, you said you had one chance on 3 listed lenses. What did that mean?

04-05-2010, 04:34 PM   #32
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The one chance meant a combination of
1: I will only allow myself to buy 1 lens in the next 365 days
and
2: There was a 28-75 being sold in my relative vicinity

I knew of no other option for the other 2 lens except stores, but considered them as alternatives to the 28-75
04-05-2010, 04:54 PM   #33
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if you are going to sell the lens, you must prepare to accept a considerable loss because such lens would lose considerable value due to it's current condition. you might find it valued around $50-$100 dollars and losing $200-$250. since the buyer would definitely consider the costs of repair and transport fees which might cost him as well. or you could have the lens repaired or realigned and enjoy using it for a very long time or have it repaired and sell it in condition for $350-$400 and only losing and giving away $50 bucks. atleast that's how old and defective lenses retain their market value and not a defective bargain. and also a way of cutting significant loses.
04-05-2010, 06:32 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by smcook99 Quote
The one chance meant a combination of
1: I will only allow myself to buy 1 lens in the next 365 days
and
2: There was a 28-75 being sold in my relative vicinity

I knew of no other option for the other 2 lens except stores, but considered them as alternatives to the 28-75
First, allowing yourself one lens for the year is unrealistic--especially since you paid $300 for this one.

You could buy three, maybe four, maybe SIX with bargains, top quality Pentax manual primes for this money--top quality glass and steel construction, except you have to manually focus.

So for $150, instead of "fixing" this lens, you can buy an SMC or Super Tak 50 1.4, plus a Super Tak 105, or 35, or 28. Or an incredible Helios 44 (58mm) for $25 to $50, plus other stuff, and whatever.

I just wish some people would get away from this zoom thing, when they see the values available in comparable FL primes.

04-05-2010, 07:01 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ira Quote
First, allowing yourself one lens for the year is unrealistic--especially since you paid $300 for this one.

You could buy three, maybe four, maybe SIX with bargains, top quality Pentax manual primes for this money--top quality glass and steel construction, except you have to manually focus.

So for $150, instead of "fixing" this lens, you can buy an SMC or Super Tak 50 1.4, plus a Super Tak 105, or 35, or 28. Or an incredible Helios 44 (58mm) for $25 to $50, plus other stuff, and whatever.

I just wish some people would get away from this zoom thing, when they see the values available in comparable FL primes.
Shh! Be quiet! If you tell people then the prices will go up!

04-05-2010, 07:09 PM   #36
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To the OP:

I'd be willing to bet that with a bit of luck & creativity you can find the seller. Get your money back from the jerk, and give him the finger on the way out the door.

After that is done you should learn to love the old MF primes. For example, for the same $300 that you spent you could have an A series 50mm f1.7, a Sears 135 f2.8 with "A" setting, a slit image focus screen, and $175 to take your son somewhere nice.
04-05-2010, 08:24 PM   #37
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I could understand a prime MF for portraits or slow moving events like weddings but for chasing a 3 year old around a playground navigating under bridges and around slides.... REALLY? It seems like I'd miss more shots just playing with the gear and trying to get close enough or far enough for whatever lens is mounted.
04-05-2010, 10:55 PM   #38
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QuoteQuote:
smcook99 I could understand a prime MF for portraits or slow moving events like weddings but for chasing a 3 year old around a playground navigating under bridges and around slides.... REALLY? It seems like I'd miss more shots just playing with the gear and trying to get close enough or far enough for whatever lens is mounted.
I'm not sure how much manual focusing you have done. Some people are amazing with it. Anticipation and thinking ahead really become the technology in this game, along with knowing your lens.

04-06-2010, 04:19 AM   #39
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I guess I could see that sometimes. Instances where if I know he's coming down the slide I'll have AF lock on the poll at the distance I want the photo at and then just wait for him to come through. I know prime's are cheaper, I didn't know they still made MF lenses. Are they manual aperture too?
04-06-2010, 04:40 AM   #40
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Sorry to hear about your bad luck. I would look for an 'A' lens. It will be auto aperture, but have manual focus. You can use 'catch in focus' with them too. With kids, anticipation is definitely a key. If you are shooting with auto focus, it often will struggle keeping up with them because of how random their movements are. Not sure about a focal length to suggest. I personally like around 100 mm best for portraits (I have a 50-135), but 50's seem to be the most plentiful and can work OK. Definitely will give you a more wide open aperture.
04-06-2010, 05:13 AM   #41
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Smoook99,

Sorry to hear about your misfortune, but it sounds like your purchase was off a Craigslist advertisment. My opinion of Craigslist sales is "Buyer Beware" as far as I'm concerned. I don't think that you're disputing that, but I think other members should remember this before they chime in about recourse with the seller. IMO, there is none unless the seller wants to make good on the sale.

BB
04-06-2010, 05:53 AM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by smcook99 Quote
I could understand a prime MF for portraits or slow moving events like weddings but for chasing a 3 year old around a playground navigating under bridges and around slides.... REALLY? It seems like I'd miss more shots just playing with the gear and trying to get close enough or far enough for whatever lens is mounted.
With the high resolution of today's camera, and cropping, a 50mm lens can almost be considered a 50-200 zoom.
04-06-2010, 06:11 AM   #43
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I know where you're going with the cropping and I completely agree but me fear is always not to trust that for IF I'm slightly out of focus or running a HIGH ISO on the picture I REALLY want to frame, it will show the focal failure or noise (lest I soften it) when I get that close. Is my fear not valid?
04-06-2010, 07:02 AM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by smcook99 Quote
I know where you're going with the cropping and I completely agree but me fear is always not to trust that for IF I'm slightly out of focus or running a HIGH ISO on the picture I REALLY want to frame, it will show the focal failure or noise (lest I soften it) when I get that close. Is my fear not valid?
Yeah, to be honest, I have a toddler as well and I suck trying to take photos of her with MF lenses - I have a much lower success rate. She is frequently too fast for auto-focus as well, but that's another story.

I know that you don't want to hear this, but my favorite lens is the Tammy 28-75. If I could have only one lens, that would likely be it. I would either consider the repair (you get 90 days more warranty than your 7-11 seller gave you) or sell it as a parts/repair lens and get a new one.
04-06-2010, 07:24 AM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by smcook99 Quote
I know where you're going with the cropping and I completely agree but me fear is always not to trust that for IF I'm slightly out of focus or running a HIGH ISO on the picture I REALLY want to frame, it will show the focal failure or noise (lest I soften it) when I get that close. Is my fear not valid?
That's one of the beauties of primes, they're usually faster glass so you can often use a lower ISO
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