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04-08-2010, 10:50 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andi Lo Quote
For lowlight, another option is to get a k-x. it's almost a two stop improvement from K20d. When you need even more speed, get a prime.

Just another thought to consider Of course the 17-50/2.8 is a great lens, but as you said, you'd prefer not to double up.

And DA colors is very different from Tamron colors. I still find DA colors nicer but tamron colors are not bad at all...
Best advice yet IMHO. A K-x body is a much better use of a similar amount of money if the goal is to get low-light performance. With that body, I do not seem to notice the difference in my ability to get a low light shot between lenses with a max aperture of F4 and the ones that are one or even two stops faster, as long as I am confident of the lens wide open.

Speaking of doubling up, I now own four different zooms meant to cover this range, though the Tamron is not one of them. That is not because the Tamron is not a great lens, but there are only so many lenses you want to try. I have one lens, a Sigma 17-35, which I bought for the F2.8 max aperture. I use it very infrequently (more on film, now than digital), and I could count the times I've used the maximum aperture on the fingers of one hand.

04-08-2010, 11:22 AM   #17
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Should i grab a 2.8..? Definetly

I have had the opportunity to use the lens on a different camera system and will recommend it based on that experience.

On my k100d i also went for a 2.8 zoom, but the 28-75 to replace the 18-55. A few days ago i put the "kit" lens on because i wanted something wider but i came off shortly after due to the speed.

With a few more stops to play with you also get more flexibility with the iso and speed.

But always a hard choice if you have to sell one to get another though

Best regards
04-08-2010, 12:15 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Andi Lo Quote
For lowlight, another option is to get a k-x. it's almost a two stop improvement from K20d.
I own both. I'll go up to 6400 on the K-x and up to 3200 on the K20, so I have no problem saying 1 stop. I can't agree with 2 stops, but I know some K20's have a banding issue that could provoke that opinion. I don't think you'll find any reviews that agree with two stops. DXOMark shows a six-point differential, which is just over 1/3 stop.
04-08-2010, 12:41 PM   #19
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QuoteQuote:
jct us101: That's odd, I've never heard of the 17-50mm giving a yellowish tinge. Well I guess maybe a little bit, but do you have any examples of it really being a problem?
Sounds more like a problem with the White Balance setting to me. Would like to hear more on this from phzy2003.

QuoteQuote:
audiobomber: I own both. I'll go up to 6400 on the K-x and up to 3200 on the K20, so I have no problem saying 1 stop. I can't agree with 2 stops, but I know some K20's have a banding issue that could provoke that opinion. I don't think you'll find any reviews that agree with two stops. DXOMark shows a six-point differential, which is just over 1/3 stop.
I am between you and DXO on this one. I think some people are confusing the aggressive noise reduction on the K-x for better ISO performance. Yes banding, unfortunately, has been reported for some copies of the K20d here at the forum. I often get very nice results with ISO 6400 on the K20d.

04-08-2010, 01:07 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jewelltrail Quote
I am between you and DXO on this one. I think some people are confusing the aggressive noise reduction on the K-x for better ISO performance. Yes banding, unfortunately, has been reported for some copies of the K20d here at the forum. I often get very nice results with ISO 6400 on the K20d.
You are quite possibly correct. One thing that confuses this issue is that the noise performance differential doesn't appear to be linear. I don't see much difference at ISO 1600, some at 3200 and quite a bit at 6400 (one stop?). As you note, noise reduction is a factor and detail can be sacrificed. I intend to do some tests at some point with NR off, but so far I haven't gotten around to it. I have a great idear, why don't you do it, and save me the trouble?
04-08-2010, 09:58 PM   #21
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QuoteQuote:
Audiobomber: You are quite possibly correct. One thing that confuses this issue is that the noise performance differential doesn't appear to be linear. I don't see much difference at ISO 1600, some at 3200 and quite a bit at 6400 (one stop?). As you note, noise reduction is a factor and detail can be sacrificed. I intend to do some tests at some point with NR off, but so far I haven't gotten around to it. I have a great idear, why don't you do it, and save me the trouble?
Well, then I either have to borrow a K-x, or post 3000 times in the forum in the next 3000 seconds to win one--LOL. You had mentioned earlier in a post you might do a test for us--I kind of had my heart set on seeing your tests--so much more fun to see someone elses test you know.
04-08-2010, 10:53 PM   #22
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I have both the DA 16-45 and the Tammy 28-75 and find they complement each other very well. I don't consider them to overlap, but to be lenses used for two different scenarios and wouldn't want to give up either one.

I'd like to add the DA 12-24 some day but wouldn't give up the DA 16-45 to do that either.

H2
04-08-2010, 11:07 PM   #23
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If you have the K-x then you definitely don't need the extra stop of light. Have you seen the high ISO from this thing? f/4 will do just fine. But I mean if you're not happy with the lens that you have, then get rid of it. The problem is that you might not like the new one just as much.

04-09-2010, 04:53 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jewelltrail Quote
Well, then I either have to borrow a K-x, or post 3000 times in the forum in the next 3000 seconds to win one--LOL.
Best of luck with that. I'll be glad when this contest ends. Way too many posts.

QuoteOriginally posted by Jewelltrail Quote
You had mentioned earlier in a post you might do a test for us
I was hoping no one remembered that I shot my mouth off. These tests take more effort than I can manage right now. Work is crazy busy.

QuoteOriginally posted by Jewelltrail Quote
I kind of had my heart set on seeing your tests--so much more fun to see someone elses test you know.
I know! No matter what you do, there's always someone who jumps down your frame because your methodology wasn't what he would use. But if you had done it his way, someone else would be jumping down your frame.
04-09-2010, 05:08 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by jct us101 Quote
If you have the K-x then you definitely don't need the extra stop of light. Have you seen the high ISO from this thing? f/4 will do just fine. But I mean if you're not happy with the lens that you have, then get rid of it. The problem is that you might not like the new one just as much.
That has been my experience. The only reason I would want the wider stop is for isolating the background in a portrait, but one of the 70-77mm primes would be more appropriate for that purpose. 45-50mm is at the short end of the portrait range. If you like that range, a fast 50 is a better, cheaper option.

I'm as guilty of this as anyone else, but I find that we as enthusiasts tend to do way too much experimenting with the latest lens, and concentrate too little on getting the shot using tools that we know. This has really come home to me since I had my 25-30 year old film bodies refurbed. After shooting a few rolls, I realized how the three lenses I used for about 90% of my film shots for 20 years just disappear into my hands, leaving only me and the subject.
04-20-2010, 06:26 AM   #26
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I was looking at this lens to, but i also was interested in Tamron 28-75mm, this one made for regular format, meaning if Pentax will aver make a full frame camera it could be used on it too, but still 17mm for my 20d much more useful. Also, Pentax 35mm prime is very interesting alternative, as well as 16-50mm/ 2.8 but it costs a bit more and no 6 years warranty.
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