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04-12-2010, 05:54 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by LensScribe Quote

I've had no problems up to an hour with the K200. The only thing I have learnt is to shoot in RAW (or RAW+ which I almost never do otherwise) and turn off all noise reduction completely (otherwise you wait as long as the exposure time for it to process rather than instantly being able to start another). If I just shoot JPEG, some of them have had random coloured spots/artifacts - shooting in RAW they look similarly speckled in a previewer, but the moment you actually process the RAW they disappear completely.

I took another recently which has even more impressive trails... will try and post it this week.
Hi Craig,
In the meantime I put a post "Lantern battery for DC input" in Camera and Studio Accessories Forum. Had some interesting replies. I wonder if startrails are better suited for us digital mob by stacking: Have you seen this guy's work? ............ JPG: Stories: How To: Lets Go Streaking, a Digital Guide to Star Trails
Film is wonderful but I like to what I got these days!
Cheers,
Pete

04-13-2010, 02:57 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by cosmicap Quote
Hi Craig,
In the meantime I put a post "Lantern battery for DC input" in Camera and Studio Accessories Forum. Had some interesting replies. I wonder if startrails are better suited for us digital mob by stacking: Have you seen this guy's work? ............ JPG: Stories: How To: Lets Go Streaking, a Digital Guide to Star Trails
Film is wonderful but I like to what I got these days!
Cheers,
Pete
Had seen it before, but didn't bookmark it last time. I've been wanting to try stacking, but kept forgetting to look it up before potentially suitable trips out of town (no hope doing star trails where I live). I should be out of the city in May so I'll try it then. While the results I've gotten from single exposures have sometimes been acceptable, stacking looks like a far less hit-and-miss approach.

In the meantime, here's another pic with the stereo adaptor... here it's on the end of a 50mm, and while that's no good for it's intended purpose, I like the effects you an get sometimes on a longer lens:


K200D; SMC A 50/f1.4; Pentax 49mm Stereo Adaptor
04-13-2010, 03:19 PM   #18
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You're right Craig - that is an interesting effect. I notice too that the verticcal shadow is practically not there. I don't find it a very comfortable view but I admit to having viewing problems anyway.
My Loreo 9005 turned up on Monday. It does not fit the K200. I have been in touch with Loreo who admit they yested it on *ist range but not K range. The K200 has a proruding flash housing that prevents the bayonet from engaging. I'd guess all the K series have the same? Very disappointing - for Loreo and me.
04-13-2010, 10:32 PM   #19
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Having played around with the 3D/Stereoscopic end of photography. My hopes are I can add meaningful conversation to this thread.

Although shooting exclusively Pentax throughout the years at one point I was given an Olympus C-8080 digital. During the time I was really still very into film and had a Pentax Stereo 52mm lens filter mount, if I can remember correctly it was attached to an smc PENTAX-A 1:1.2 50mm. At the time this Pentax Stereo lens came with a slide viewer.

Just for kicks I decided to to take the Olympus 8080 digital and see how it compared to the film stereoscopic against the Pentax splitter. My aspect and intent was for 3d anaglyphs.

Although the method used was mounting the Oly on a tripod and shooting from two different angles (no digital splitter was available or manufactured at this time for this camera).

Here are the results with the Olympus Digital. If one can find a set of 3D glasses for movies (for example the ones that came with the Shrek DVD). Then the images can be seen in 3D on the computer screen. Quite frankly it gives me a headache looking at these images in 3D.

Get your 3d Glasses out, Sorry in advance for any headaches Photo Gallery by Wendy B at pbase.com

I rarely publicly open my P-Base albums. But for this topic I will open this particular album. I do not have the Pentax split Slide comparisons within this album. Give me a week or so and I will locate the slides and merge them in Photoshop and post them to this album.

There was a piece of free software which helped with the 3d anaglyphs . Off hand I can not remember what the name of it was but know for sure I still have it tucked away somewhere.

Hope this is not off topic and is helpful.

04-14-2010, 06:11 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Indecent Exposure Quote

Pentax Stereo lens came with a slide viewer.
Still comes with a viewer that works for 5' prints. I must get some of my grandfather's slides out to see if it works with them.

QuoteQuote:
Just for kicks I decided to to take the Olympus 8080 digital and see how it compared to the film stereoscopic against the Pentax splitter. My aspect and intent was for 3d anaglyphs.

Although the method used was mounting the Oly on a tripod and shooting from two different angles (no digital splitter was available or manufactured at this time for this camera).

Here are the results with the Olympus Digital. If one can find a set of 3D glasses for movies (for example the ones that came with the Shrek DVD). Then the images can be seen in 3D on the computer screen. Quite frankly it gives me a headache looking at these images in 3D.
Mmmm me too! Anaglyphs have never been my favourite viewing method. I wonder if (some of) your stereo pairs were taken with the two views converging? A basic rule seems to be to make sure the two views are parallel. I also wonder if the separation between views was more than it should have been? For rule of thumb it's recommended 1/30 the distance to the intended focal point of the view. i.e. if you are 30cm distant the camera should shift 1cm.



QuoteQuote:
I rarely publicly open my P-Base albums. But for this topic I will open this particular album. I do not have the Pentax split Slide comparisons within this album. Give me a week or so and I will locate the slides and merge them in Photoshop and post them to this album.

There was a piece of free software which helped with the 3d anaglyphs. Off hand I can not remember what the name of it was but know for sure I still have it tucked away somewhere.

Hope this is not off topic and is helpful.
May I recommend Stereo Photo Maker for merging your pairs. It's free and excellent. I generally choose "Auto adjust" from the menu to do it all. It painlessly does all the adjustments necessary to convert pairs to anaglyph or side by side. If you want you can tweak as much as you like. I am not a 3D officionado and so far have been perfectly satisfied with the results. Here is a link to SPM site: http://http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/stphmkr/

Look forward to seeing more of your 3D pairs.
Not off topic as far as I'm concerned! Thank you.
04-20-2010, 09:00 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by cosmicap Quote
Still comes with a viewer that works for 5' prints. I must get some of my grandfather's slides out to see if it works with them.



Mmmm me too! Anaglyphs have never been my favourite viewing method. I wonder if (some of) your stereo pairs were taken with the two views converging? A basic rule seems to be to make sure the two views are parallel. I also wonder if the separation between views was more than it should have been? For rule of thumb it's recommended 1/30 the distance to the intended focal point of the view. i.e. if you are 30cm distant the camera should shift 1cm.





May I recommend Stereo Photo Maker for merging your pairs. It's free and excellent. I generally choose "Auto adjust" from the menu to do it all. It painlessly does all the adjustments necessary to convert pairs to anaglyph or side by side. If you want you can tweak as much as you like. I am not a 3D officionado and so far have been perfectly satisfied with the results. Here is a link to SPM site: http://http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/stphmkr/

Look forward to seeing more of your 3D pairs.
Not off topic as far as I'm concerned! Thank you.
For some reason the link to StereoPhoto Maker (English) goes to dead link.

While doing a Google search for Stereo Photo Maker the site does Hit the top of the search list.

While searching for my 3-D slides to get out of storage along with them surprisingly I found the Stereo Split lens attachment tucked away in its box. That was a "WOW" moment 0f 20 years in hiding.

After doing a brief search through the forum and Google there is not information for using this stereo splitter with a Pentax DSLR.
The manual how very limited as it is was also in the box

Is it worth the time to or will the Pentax Stereo Splitter even be worthwhile to mount with the like's of a 50 f/2 on my K7 or K-10?

Last edited by Indecent Exposure; 04-20-2010 at 09:11 PM.
04-20-2010, 11:45 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Indecent Exposure Quote
For some reason the link to StereoPhoto Maker (English) goes to dead link.

While doing a Google search for Stereo Photo Maker the site does Hit the top of the search list.

While searching for my 3-D slides to get out of storage along with them surprisingly I found the Stereo Split lens attachment tucked away in its box. That was a "WOW" moment 0f 20 years in hiding.

After doing a brief search through the forum and Google there is not information for using this stereo splitter with a Pentax DSLR.
The manual how very limited as it is was also in the box

Is it worth the time to or will the Pentax Stereo Splitter even be worthwhile to mount with the like's of a 50 f/2 on my K7 or K-10?

This URL just worked for me:
StereoPhoto Maker (English)
Perhaps try again!

Congrats on finding the gizmo. It is still available, updated for DSLR. I do not know if its innards have been fiddled with for the smaller sensor in DSLR. As far as I know you just wind your gizmo straight onto a 49mm thread K mount lens and fire away in 3D. You'll soon find if the results are worthwhile. I believe that the shorter the barrel length of the lens the less significant the black separation shadow down the middle. Pentax recommend the DA 18-55 lens but I'm going to fit mine to an old PentaxA 50mm prime. If you are using a modern DSLR lens FL has to be 35mm. I need a thread adapter 49-52mm. Works best in MF with manual mode. Tends to overexpose .5 to 1.0 stop.
Good luck - hope to hear of your success!
Cheers.
Pete

Last edited by cosmicap; 04-20-2010 at 11:50 PM. Reason: omitted fact
04-22-2010, 09:30 PM   #23
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While having several 50mm's at my disposal from M's to FA's and the DA stars which will not fit with this particular appliance for my photographic work. Although I had not planned on incorporating on using this splitter with my current lens array.

My thoughts are that it is worthwhile playing with this lens attachment and see what it can produce.

This thread is throwing me in a totally different direction of photography than I previously anticipated.

Things happen for a reason so I will go there.

Results will be posted soon after I set up for this.

If it can be done I do it well. If it can not then I will say so.

My current mindset says it can be done right.

But I do know and fully understand how to use a Pentax SLR and will post full instruction, in other words my test shots are working and working very well. One word WOW!


Last edited by Indecent Exposure; 04-22-2010 at 09:48 PM.
04-24-2010, 03:45 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Indecent Exposure Quote
in other words my test shots are working and working very well. One word WOW!
Is that straight off the camera or after repairing with SPM?
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