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04-10-2010, 01:49 PM   #1
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New to pentax..

I am a new pentax owner. Anyways I bought a few lens online from a guy. I was wondering if any of them are any good. I have a:
135mm Prime Sears
70-210mm Hoya zoom
Quantaray 28-80mm zoom
Rikenon 50mm prime
28mm prime "I think its a old pentax?"

Anyways there are photos below of the lenses. I just keep flopping on which ones I like. I used to hate the 28mm prime, but now I think its one of my favorites and the 135 sears prime.. good bokah. The quantaray 28-80 gives me trouble some times it gives me good results.. Anyways have any light to shed on this subject? Are any of them any good? or are they all junk? I figure this will do until I can afford some good glass like the ltd 77mm! I am also looking for a wide angle or fish eye. like the samyang 8mm..

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04-10-2010, 02:40 PM   #2
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The Sears is pretty good, the Ricoh is probably good too. It looks like only one has an A position on the aperture ring, making it easier to use. The Focal was made for KMart, the Quantaray was made for Ritz by Sigma.

All of them are common ranges and maximum apertures. It's pretty easy to find equivalents that are better in some way, though of course, often more expensive. I wouldn't expect them to sell for a lot - might have to kick in something extra to get the FA77 . I think using them for a while might give you some useful experience.
04-10-2010, 02:50 PM   #3
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Thanks I will definitely use them! Do you know any "best kept secretes or bang for the buck" lenses? Like something that I can get right now that will operate very well all around until I get my ltd lenses. something cheap. I love manual lenses as well I don't know if that helps or hinders.. Which is why I have all the above lenses because they are manual. I have a 35 video adapter I use them with..
04-10-2010, 03:13 PM   #4
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None of these are going to set the world on fire I am guessing BUT all of them will get you good shots once you learn how to use them. And maybe it will be you who discovers the next great secret or under-priced wonder lens.

Because those that are known tend to go up in price rather quickly. There are no extreme bargains like there used to be some years ago.

04-10-2010, 03:25 PM   #5
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See the lens review seciton of this site. The ratings averages give you a pretty good idea of which the good ones might be, and then you can click through to see comments and often samples. Also see the various "club" threads on this forum (see the sticky thread at the top of the forum with an index).
04-10-2010, 05:25 PM   #6
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Sweet i'll look into it...
04-10-2010, 05:47 PM   #7
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I don't think there are any "best-kept secrets" any more, but there ARE some fine well-known bargains. Here are my suggestions and comments:

All the lenses you have seem to be Pentax bayonet (PK) mount. Many great bargain lenses have the M42 screwmount, which require an adapter. More on that below.

I'm not happy with any manual zooms that don't have an A setting on the aperture ring. Lack of the A means you may not get the best Shake Reduction. But that's my quirk. CORRECTION: I misspoke. Shake Reduction is shaky with ALL manual zooms, not just non-A's.
________________________________________________________________

Many Ricoh and Sears (often Ricoh-made) PK primes are quite good. But BEWARE Ricoh-made lenses that are marked KR. These contain the infamous RICOH PIN. Mounted on your Pentax dSLR, they can be EXTREMELY difficult to remove.

Mamiya glass is also good, and Mamiya made some Sears lenses. Other names you'll see on good lenses (but not always with PK mounts) are Rikenon, Fujinon, and Yashinon. Some of these are still priced quite low.

You'll see the names Vivitar and Sigma on many lenses. Sigma is a maker; their products range from very good to not so good. Research any specific lens before you buy it. Vivitar is a marketer, with lenses from many makers. Viv glass has about the same quality curve as Sigma, with older lenses usually being better.

Older Vivitar Series 1 lenses are often astonishingly good, and astonishingly cheap. The most famous is the 70-210 zoom, especially (in order) Versions 3, 1, and 2. Avoid the later versions. (Google VIVITAR SERIES VERSION for details.) My Version 1 f/3.5 cost me a whole US$32 including shipping. It's about the only manual zoom I'm keeping. Newer (post-1985) Series 1 lenses are often crap.

There are still some Pentax / Asahi / Takumar bargain lenses out there, but they're going fast, what with Pentax/Hoya's recent spike in fame. Some are very good; a few aren't. See the lens database here for details. (Click on LENSES at the top of any Forum page.)
________________________________________________________________

Many of the best bargains, Pentax-made and otherwise, are M42 or M39 screwmounts. M39's can be difficult to identify, so I'll skip those for now. M42 was the standard before Pentax developed their bayonet PK mount. M42's are still being made after 70+ years. Some M42's can be difficult to use on a dSLR. And we have heated debates here about using various adapters. There's too much to go into now, so I'll just recommend getting an Official Pentax adapter, and using it with some of these great lenses:

First and foremost, the Helios-44 58/2 is incredible. Fast, sharp, and cheap. How cheap? BIN (buy-it-now) on eBay for around US$20. Other Russian glass labeled Helios, Jupiter, Mir, Industar, Tair, and Zenitar are also good deals. I got a NEW, huge, deadly sharp Jupiter-21M 200/4 for US$25. I got a tiny Industar-50 f/3.5 for US$13; put it on tubes and it's one of the best macro lenses around. Macro tubes are usually about US$8 per set, whether PK or M42; buy several sets.

The brands I mentioned above (Mamiya, Sears, Takumar, Vivitar etc) are on many superior M42 and PK lenses. Great bargains can be found under almost any of those names: 24/2.8, 28/2.8 (yours sounds decent), 35/2.8 or f/3.5, 50-55mm f/1.4-2 (you have one, but you can never have enough 50's), 100/2.8, 135/2.8 (yours should be OK), 200/4.

Other names to look for: Isco, Meyer, Enna (all German, all GOOD). Names that might be good, and might not: Lentar, Albinar, Suntar, and especially Hanimar / Hanimex and Porst and Spiratone. Those last few can be OK if they're REAL CHEAP. Some are best used for burning ants and throwing at stray dogs.

That's an overview. Keep asking questions.

Last edited by RioRico; 04-10-2010 at 06:19 PM. Reason: correction
04-10-2010, 05:52 PM   #8
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These are actually some really good lenses (well possibly except for the Quantaray which is probably just a rebadged Sigma 28-80mm. The 24mm f/2.8 is a lens that I always try to get when I have a Pentax camera.

04-10-2010, 06:04 PM   #9
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WOW! thanks riorico! Now It looks like I have a lot of research and shopping to do..

jct us101 - 24mm f 2.8? is that a pentax lens? K for M42? How much do those go for?
04-10-2010, 06:06 PM   #10
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What a great summary!

QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
I'm not happy with any manual zooms that don't have an A setting on the aperture ring. Lack of the A means you may not get the best Shake Reduction. But that's my quirk.
The other big problem is that these non-A lenses is that they tend not to be constant aperture through their range. So one has to change exposure manually as you zoom. That would be an absolute pain, so I own exactly zero of them.

QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
But BEWARE Ricoh-made lenses that are marked KR. These contain the infamous RICOH PIN. Mounted on your Pentax dSLR, they can be EXTREMELY difficult to remove.
Ricoh Lenses On Pentax Cameras -- The Ricoh Pin Fix

QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
Those last few can be OK if they're REAL CHEAP. Some are best used for burning ants and throwing at stray dogs.
04-10-2010, 06:12 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by leadguitarest Quote
K for M42? How much do those go for?
The real Pentax ones go for about $30. I also advise to not mess around with any other brand. A likely result would be the inability to focus at infinity.

You use the adapter on your camera and can then screw on any M42 lens. But it is sometimes more convenient to do the opposite: mount the adapter to the lens and then it acts in all ways like a bayonet-mount. It's much quicker to get on and off the camera.

But of course if you do that you need one per lens. That's OK if you only use one or two M42 lenses, which just might be the case.
04-10-2010, 06:27 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by leadguitarest Quote
WOW! thanks riorico! Now It looks like I have a lot of research and shopping to do..

jct us101 - 24mm f 2.8? is that a pentax lens? K for M42? How much do those go for?
It's a Sigma or Tokina lens as far as I can remember. I think that Takumar also made one. I think that they all have the same exact optical formula.
04-10-2010, 06:29 PM   #13
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OK, adapters. [Sigh.] There are basically three breeds, each with their own uses.

1) OFFICIAL PENTAX, safe and pricey and sometimes tedious, but everyone should have one. Just one.

2) THIRD-PARTY CLONE of (1), often stamped Bower. Cheap and sometimes risky and IF YOU DON'T REMOVE THE SCREW AND SPRING, YOU'LL GO APESHIT! But cheap. I use many, with no problems EXCEPT THE FIRST, WHICH DROVE ME APESHIT! I usually leave these tightened on M42 lenses I use a great deal.

3) FLANGED NON-INFINITY FOCUS. Cheap and safe. Good for macro tubes, bellows, other situations where you're doing closeups and don't WANT infinity focus. I use several. NOTE: These also automatically allow use of Catch-In-Focus. Go ahead, ask.

Much else can (and will) be said about adapters, but I must go prepare dinner now.
04-10-2010, 08:36 PM   #14
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I am really hating my 28mm lens I ran like 30 tests today.. the apature goes up and down randomly... ?? Its a manual lens or so i thought but it does say auto.. Is it just freaking out? I first noticed it during some interval shooting. Here is a thread I put up about it. WHat would cause this?


https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/97032-k7-interval-...pse-issue.html
04-10-2010, 10:18 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by leadguitarest Quote
I am really hating my 28mm lens I ran like 30 tests today.. the apature goes up and down randomly... ?? Its a manual lens or so i thought but it does say auto.. Is it just freaking out? I first noticed it during some interval shooting. Here is a thread I put up about it. WHat would cause this?


https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/97032-k7-interval-...pse-issue.html
The camera holds the aperture blades fully open so it's easier to frame and focus. Then when it fires a shot, the blades are released to spring into the correct position for the aperture you've chosen. Your blades aren't doing that every time, so something is not working in the mechanism. That's why you get overexposure. The blades are open wider than they should be when the shutter opens, letting in more light than you intended. We can exonerate the camera if other lenses work.

The leading reason for this is oil on the blades. You can see it if it's there. In your case I don't think it's oil, because oil slows down the blades more consistently. Inexpensive lenses don't always have great mechanisms for the aperture lever, and I would look there.

On my camera, the 2-second delay drive mode allows the blades to stop down before the 2 second delay, so the blades have a lot of tome to get closed. I use it to observe this type of problem. It uses way more battery power so it might not be a great long-term solution for interval shooting.
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