[GridUser]

I have an old ME film camera, for which I have a Vivitar 70-150 f 3.8/22 close-focusing zoom and a Soligar 28mm lens. I just got a 10D with the 18-55 kit lens. I leave on Sunday for the big airshow in Oshkosh, WI (USA) and am trying to figure out how to use the zoom on my new 10D. I went into the Custom Menu and changed Using Aperture Ring to Permitted (thanx to someone's advice on this forum). I am able to use it to take pictures, as long as I manually focus it. There are a few things that happen, however, that I'm not sure how to handle and any help would be appreciated.

1) When I put on the zoom and turn the camera on, a screen pops up that says: Shake Reduction, then Focal Length, then a range of focal lengths from 8 thru 800. If I turn shake reduction off, I don't get this screen but I will likely use SR, especially with the zoom lens (I'm not as steady as I was in my 20's). To what focal length do I set this and do I need to change it everytime I change the zoom distance?
2) Using the green position on the mode button, the on-board flash completely wipes out (overexposes) anything I try to shoot. Can I fix this?
3) The camera seems to be stuck in bracketing mode. Every time I take a picture, it takes one over and one under-exposed, too. I've tried to push the buttom to change this but it seems to be locked into that mode.

There may be other problems but these are the only ones I've found, so far. I'm about to go pay full retail for a Tamron 18-200 or 18-250 auto zoom but I'd like to see if I can get the legacy glass to work, first. I get the same bracketing mode problem with the Soligor wide angle and the original 50mm Pentax lens, too.

[egordon99]

You can't use P-TTL flash (including the pop-up flash) with manual lenses, as the camera/flash doesn't know the f-stop that the lens is set to. As such, the internal flash ALWAYS fires at full power. You can keep stopping the lens down until you get a nice exposure though (through trial and error)

If you get the Pentax 540 flash, you SHOULD be able to use Auto mode on the flash, provided you match the aperture of the lens with the setting on the flash.
Don't know what is going on with the bracketing.

[GridUser]

Thanx for the quick reply egordon99. I tried using the aperture ring on the lens to stop down thru the range from f3.8 thru f22 but the result is always the same - overexposed. I've been thinking about the 540 flash but haven't heard many good things about it on this forum. There was another flash that said it was for the Pentax but now I can't find it. It was significantly less expensive thanb the 540.

[Gaelen]

From what I remeber there is something in My k100D manual that says what the 2 settings are to use the manual lenses.

Take a look in there it will probably help you out

http://www.pentaxslr.com/files/scms_docs//K10D_Manual.pdf

Page 210 might be of some help

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Last edited by Gaelen; 07-20-2007 at 11:36 AM.

[egordon99]

First of all, get rid of the GREEN mode from the mode dial. Put the dial on M. Select the aperture you wish to shoot at from the lens. Press the little green button to get a recommended shutter speed. Shoot away! If you are trying to use the flash, set the shutter speed to 1/180s.

I do know in Av mode with a manual lens, the lens is ALWAYS wide open during the shot, regardless of where the aperture ring is set. I have a feeling the GREEN mode might do something similar. So your overexposed shots were always wide-open.

[GridUser]

egordon99 is what you suggest (M mode over Green) only for when I use the on-board flash or when taking regular pictures in the daylight? Page 210 of my manual (thanx for the suggestion, Gaelen) says either M or Av mode will work (at least I think that's what it says). I still can't figure out why the camera insists on being in bracket mode when using this old lens.

[Lowell Goudge]

Lets knock off the issues one at a time

For shake reduction focal length, set this to the length you think you will shoot the most. If you don't know, pick the middle of the range.

For flash, the only way is to get an AF540FGZ flash which has a photo cell like your old flash, and can be set in manual mode like you are accustomed to do. To get metering (so you can adsjust fill) either press the green button, or the Depth of Field Preview, and it activates the metering. The K10D does not have a TTL mode (you need a n *istD for this). I think regardless of operating mode, the internal flash will always fire at full power.

For simple auto exposure at full apature only, use the Av Mode.

[GridUser]

Thanx Lowell. Do you want to take a stab at why I can't turn off the bracketing mode when using my old K mount lenses?

[Deni]

You don't need the AF540FGZ flash for your legacy lenses. Any thyristor flash will do fine.

Buy an AF540FGZ flash to use with legacy lenses is like buying a Ferrari just to sit in it.

[GridUser]

Deni, how do you like the Tamron lens? I'm about to go buy one locally. Would you recommend? Thanx.

[Deni]

As far as I've used it I like it. How much can you get it locally? I got it from a member from these forums for ~$180 shipped to Albania. About 2 weeks ago there was one on sale for ~$89 IRR.

So my advice is for you to wait because you might get it for much cheaper from here. Also if you can spend the extra money to find the 18-200mm lens the extra 10mm in the wide end is very valuable. I keep the kit lens in my bag only for that.

Of course these super zoom lenses can't be compared to primes, but for the quality, reach and convenience they offer, I love them.

[Romoman]

I don't know anything about the K10D, but on a k100, go into the fn menu, hit up to select the drive mode, then select the single photo option (first one on the left). Not sure the equivalent on the K10D.

[Lowell Goudge]

You don't need the AF540FGZ flash for your legacy lenses. Any thyristor flash will do fine.

Buy an AF540FGZ flash to use with legacy lenses is like buying a Ferrari just to sit in it.

The reason you buy an AF540FGZ is because when you get around to purchasing a new lens, you don't get stuck then with getting a new flash if you want P-TTL flash.

Regarding a Ferrari, I thought that was why people bought them any way. At least you don't brake any laws using an AF540TGZ to its full capacity

[GridUser]

Thanx, Romoman. I tried that and it doesn't work.

[GridUser]

Thanks, everybody, for your answers about my attempt to use legacy glass on a new K-10D. I just bought the Tamron 18-300, so I'm good-to-go. I gave it the old college try but I'm better off using lenses made for the camera. I appreciate your help. Happy Weekend (I LIVE for this stuff)!