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04-15-2010, 05:04 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
If one uses a reversed lens, the working distance is the registration distance (lens mount to film/sensor plane) for any lens mounted on any other lens, or on the camera directly. It does not change at all, no matter the lens. If you think about what you are doing with the lens, you are substituting the subject for the film plane.
Thanks for clearing that up. I wish I'd thought of it.

QuoteQuote:
And working distance is VERY, VERY close indeed! You have to pay attention to the aperture levers while working, you are so close.
And that's a good reason to use select screwmount lenses as the secondary glass. No aperture blades protruding, usually just the rear lens element hanging out there, naked and willing.

Hmmm, when reverse-stacking lenses, have you noticed any differences based on the amount the objective is set back from the front ring? The best primaries are short-to-medium teles; the best secondaries are moderate wides. Some of these have setbacks that double as effective lens hoods. (My Viv 90/2.8 macro is recessed over 20mm.) What's your feeling about the separation distance between primary and secondary objectives?

QuoteQuote:
My favourite reversal was with an M 28/3.5 reversed on the mount rather than on another lens. It gives slightly greater than 2X magnification. Perfect for jewelry and such. Not so good for bugs. They don't like big shiny things 40 odd mm away from them.
Get'em while they're cold and wet. But yeah, I had a hard time sneaking up on the praying mantids that hung out on my back porch last autumn. They didn't care at all for my intrusion. Cheeky buggers. Ah, my next question would be: how about putting a mount-reversed lens on tubes? And my answer would be: try it and see. OK, that's for my next session...

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