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04-21-2010, 06:02 PM   #16
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miss alex, have you tried getting closer to the subject? If you get an adapter or separate diopter lens, you will need to get closer to your subject in order to focus properly. And also learn to handle very thin DOF. This presents it's own challenges...

04-21-2010, 06:12 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by flippedgazelle Quote
According to her sig, the OP has the 90mm f/2.8 1:1 macro.
Oops - Well, I did claim ageing eyes.

Editing and deleting previous comments to remove references to manual 90mm f/2.5 lens.
04-21-2010, 06:30 PM   #18
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I was close as possible. It was shot at f9.

Last edited by miss_alexx; 04-21-2010 at 06:38 PM.
04-21-2010, 06:44 PM   #19
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adding a close-up filter wont allow you to shoot such live subjects. the MFD becomes too close and only around a few cm away from the front element. and you cant shoot further away once the filter is attached.

your best way is to crop the image. as far as details, shoot with a flash (macro).

04-21-2010, 07:19 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentaxor Quote
adding a close-up filter wont allow you to shoot such live subjects. the MFD becomes too close and only around a few cm away from the front element. and you cant shoot further away once the filter is attached.

your best way is to crop the image. as far as details, shoot with a flash (macro).
I use the Raynox DCR-150 on my 55-300 (and before that, Tamron 70-300) to shoot live spiders, flies, etc. all the time.

IIRC, with the Raynox DCR-150/300mm lens combo, the distance between lens and subject is ~ 8".

Here's a pic of a spider, shot thru the kitchen window. No crop - this is the full frame, resized. He was walking.

135mm w/Raynox DCR-150, ISO 800 f/27
Attached Images
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PENTAX K-x  Photo 

Last edited by flippedgazelle; 04-21-2010 at 07:27 PM.
04-21-2010, 07:28 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentaxor Quote
adding a close-up filter wont allow you to shoot such live subjects. the MFD becomes too close and only around a few cm away from the front element. and you cant shoot further away once the filter is attached.

your best way is to crop the image. as far as details, shoot with a flash (macro).
Pentaxor is, IMO, correct about shooting live critters with a close-up diopter -- you'd get more magnification, but would have to be too close.

There is another option -- try a TC. You could shoot at the same MFD, but get more magnification, or shoot from farther away, and still be at 1:1.

Here are two shots I recently got with the K-7, Sigma EX 180 f3.5 APO DG Macro + Pentax F 1.7x Auto Focusing Adapter. I also used a Metz 15 MS1 Macro Slave flash, fired with the popup as the Master. I'd estimate the fly as being 1/2 to 2/3 the size of the fly in your pics (about 1/4" long).

The first was shot at @ 1:1 -- the distance between the fly and the front element of the lens was about a bit under a foot.


This shot was from about 8" from the front element, and is probably at @ 1.5:1. Both shots are full height crops to 8x10 and slightly sharpened to make up for the resizing. Both were taken at f11 at the lens.


I don't think there's significant image degradation from the AFA's "added glass".

Both shots were handheld, but with the flash to cut the considerable camera shake. The longer dedicated macro +AFA gives me a lot of versatility as I can shoot both birds and bugs without changing lenses, but I've gotten comparable results with the AFA and a D FA 100/2.8 Macro. The working distance is shorter, but still enough to stay outside most critters' "danger" zone.

Personally, I wouldn't go with anything greater than 1.7x, since other than the Rear Converter A 2x-L, most of the other 2x TCs are crap. The Tamron and Kenko 1.4x and 1.5x respectively, and the Promaster 1.7x are usually cited as the best TCs without a protruding front element, so I'd imagine these would be the best bets.

I'm pretty much a beginner at this, so keep that in mind -- I'm just starting to get serious about this macro critter thing. . . and trying to think a bit outside the box. . .

Scott
04-21-2010, 07:33 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by flippedgazelle Quote
I use the Raynox DCR-150 on my 55-300 (and before that, Tamron 70-300) to shoot live spiders, flies, etc. all the time.

IIRC, with the Raynox DCR-150/300mm lens combo, the distance between lens and subject is ~ 8".

Here's a pic of a spider, shot thru the kitchen window. No crop - this is the full frame, resized. He was walking.

135mm w/Raynox DCR-150, ISO 800 f/27
Both Pentaxor and you are correct -- Pentaxor was, I think, considering the Raynox used with the OP's 1:1 macro lens at MFD.

Your results speak for themselves. Nicely done!

Scott

04-21-2010, 08:06 PM   #23
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D FA 100mm Macro at maximum magnification. You should be able to get the same magnification with your Tamron (1:1).



D FA 100mm macro + Raynox M-250:

04-21-2010, 08:17 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by snostorm Quote
Both Pentaxor and you are correct -- Pentaxor was, I think, considering the Raynox used with the OP's 1:1 macro lens at MFD.
Hmm, I didn't think about that. Unfortunately, I can't experiment with the Raynox attached to my Vivi 100mm macro because the Vivi's diameter is too small (49mm).
04-21-2010, 08:38 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by flippedgazelle Quote
Unfortunately, I can't experiment with the Raynox attached to my Vivi 100mm macro because the Vivi's diameter is too small (49mm).
A Raynox will fit a 49mm filter size. All you need to do is unscrew the Raynox element from its adapter and mount it in a 49-43mm adapter.
04-21-2010, 08:41 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentaxor Quote
adding a close-up filter wont allow you to shoot such live subjects. the MFD becomes too close and only around a few cm away from the front element. and you cant shoot further away once the filter is attached.
It's closer all right, a bit over 2" with the DCR-250, IIRC. Tricky but doable.
04-21-2010, 08:42 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by snostorm Quote
Both Pentaxor and you are correct -- Pentaxor was, I think, considering the Raynox used with the OP's 1:1 macro lens at MFD.

Your results speak for themselves. Nicely done!

Scott
Yes, I was referring to the OP's macro lens at MFD. it's increases the magnification but also makes the DOF much more shallower.


also, I don't think it would be advisable to even use a diopter lens nor even be able to get more magnification from it on the DA35 macro. the DA35 is too close for focusing already at 14cm MFD, which make it more harder to focus and getting the necessary DOF.

anyway, it is advisable to shoot at infinity to give you a bit more working space, though not by a mile but still considerable distance. although you wont get the same amount of magnification at MFD, but still I think would be enough to give you enough magnification.

as far as IQ degradation goes, I would believe it depends on the quality of the diopter lens as well. a great diopter glass would mostly preserve the IQ, but you would have much shallower DOF instead.
04-21-2010, 08:45 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
It's closer all right, but subject distance is still workable, a bit over 2" with the DCR-250, IIRC.
depends on the MFD of the lens. some are even much shorter than that. the shorter the MFD, the closer the focus to the subject. also consider the shallow DOF as well. it gets much thinner and could lose focus on the other parts or areas of the critter.
04-21-2010, 08:46 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Pentaxor Quote
also, I don't think it would be advisable to even use a diopter lens nor even be able to get more magnification from it on the DA35 macro. the DA35 is too close for focusing already at 14cm MFD, which make it more harder to focus and getting the necessary DOF.
I agree, a diopter on a DA 35mm would not work because of its very short subject distance. But I thought we were talking about the Tamron 90mm.
04-21-2010, 08:47 PM   #30
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Hmmm, must have been a small fly because 1:1 should give you much more magnification than that... and you say those are cropped!

You said you saw pictures which had better detail and were much closer. Where are these pictures so we can view them and know what your looking for.

Personally when i want more magnification I use a reversed 50mm infront of the sigma 105mm macro (like yours, goes to 1:1). The working distance is very short but I still have little trouble with live subjects.

Live, wild lizard with the above setup:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/98699-macro-alligator-lizard.html

Live Crane fly with the above setup:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/98365-macro-crane-fly-macro.html

Live assassin bug with the above setup:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/98515-macro-assassin-among-bark.html

Live praying mantis (a skittish one at that) with the above setup:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/98375-macro-damaged-pray...ntis-eyes.html

Live Lady bug with the above setup:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/98355-macro-lady-bug-up-close-personal.html

Another Live praying mantis with the above setup:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/97895-macro-my-best-pray...shot-date.html

etc. etc. etc.

So it is possible with less distance between you and the subject. It just takes patience and slow steady movements
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