[Ratmagiclady]

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Anyone ever tried doing this stuff in either HC110 or Rodinal, or for that matter, Diafine?

I have a bunch I've rated at 2000 and not really sure I want to commit to mixing up more D-76.

But I shot for it. And I'm not used to the other things I have. So I probably should.


What you think?

[summonbaka]

Saw it a while ago, check this:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-film-slr-discussion/53503-cool-let...ml#post1038780

[Angevinn]

Hey RatMagicLady,

TMAX is a finicky film. When I used to shoot it I would develop it in straight D-76 or sometimes the special T-Max Developer. TMAX 3600 can be extremely grainy, you might also consider Microdol. Microdol will decrease the contrast of the negatives though.

If you want a good high speed black and white film give Fuji Neopan 1600 a spin. It's an excellent film. All of the Fuji Neopan black and white films are excellent (avoid the older SS Neopan, it takes a special fixer that was not being sold in the US the last time I checked). The newer B&W Fuji Acros film is quite good too.

Here is a link on eBay:

10 rolls Fuji Neopan 1600 B&W Prints Film 35mm 135-36 - eBay (item 120582369632 end time Jul-11-10 20:38:02 PDT)

Are you on Flickr?

Later Gator,

A.

Anyone ever tried doing this stuff in either HC110 or Rodinal, or for that matter, Diafine?

I have a bunch I've rated at 2000 and not really sure I want to commit to mixing up more D-76.

But I shot for it. And I'm not used to the other things I have. So I probably should.


What you think?

[ChrisPlatt]

A professional photographer I know uses Kodak T-MAX developer for all her black and white film, both conventional and T-grain.

Chris

[s162216]

When developed in a 'normal' developer' like D-76, Tmax 3200's actual speed is ISO 800. To get it at 3200 you have to push it 2 stops.

When done in a 'speed enhancing' developer like Tmax or Ilfotec DD-X or Ilfotec DD then its speed is ISO 3200 without any pushing.

Hope this helps

[Ratmagiclady]

A professional photographer I know uses Kodak T-MAX developer for all her black and white film, both conventional and T-grain.

Chris

Hrm, well, I don't actually have any of the stuff now: when I got this deal on the P3200 film, I did, though: I took way too long to shoot it, etc. Some of this is left over a long time.

What I have now is the D-76, some Diafine, which I've started shooting a little Arista Premium for anyway, I have what I have. , (Though I guess I could just try pushing the Arista if it comes about that I don't want to mix the Diafine. Anyway, I have what I have.

I may do something today, at least, if my head clears enough. Probably will just use the D-76 for simplicity's sake, and familiarity, less likely to make an error in this nicotine-less fog I've been in. (Still seem to be coping with tobacco-free life, I feel totally out of it, still. )

...hours later... Not so much... Any suggestions? I guess just mixing some D-76 is the thing. Since there were none before, that'swhat I'll do, Isuppose.

---------- Post added 06-15-2010 at 02:51 PM ----------

When developed in a 'normal' developer' like D-76, Tmax 3200's actual speed is ISO 800. To get it at 3200 you have to push it 2 stops.

When done in a 'speed enhancing' developer like Tmax or Ilfotec DD-X or Ilfotec DD then its speed is ISO 3200 without any pushing.

Hope this helps

I'm not sure this information is actually up to date, but, yes. It's called P3200 cause you can push it to 3200. As I mentioned, I rate it at 2000 and develop as such normally (ie for 3200), but do not have the Tmax developer, nor do I want to go get it, wherever, so I have a choice of three others, that's why I was asking questions.