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07-27-2010, 03:11 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Clicker Quote
If it's strictly B&W, i wouldn't worry about the final rinse...that water is good for a lot of prints, it doesn't have to be "runnining" like most have said already.
RC paper washes fast, really fast. Fiber base paper needs complete fluid changes every 5 minutes or so and with wash times up to an hour is recommended for some brands. So not worry about it?

07-27-2010, 03:37 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
RC paper washes fast, really fast. Fiber base paper needs complete fluid changes every 5 minutes or so and with wash times up to an hour is recommended for some brands. So not worry about it?
Thanks ;D yeah... I did some pretty messed up things and mistakes with my photo assignments... and they seemed fine ;D
07-27-2010, 03:44 PM   #18
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Fixer stain sometimes takes a long time to develop on a print.


Steve
07-27-2010, 04:03 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
Fixer stain sometimes takes a long time to develop on a print.


Steve
Yeah ;( I had a couple of those ... was sad when I saw it.

07-27-2010, 06:37 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
Stick with RC papers at first. Modern RC papers are excellent.
I know some pros who make their exhibition prints on RC paper.

Chris
Thanks, I think we use RC paper in the classroom just because it's easier.
07-28-2010, 06:37 AM   #21
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Back when I had a darkroom I mainly used RC papers. If I used anything else, I used a washing aid. My print washer was my deep sink with a stand pipe in it and a length of hose wrapped around it which could be attached to the faucet to create swirling water in the sink which would rise and flow into the top of the pipe. After 20-30 years, I've seen very few fixer stains.
07-28-2010, 10:07 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
I have a home-built model too. I did not want to mention it because of the ugly factor. I used a 20 gallon glass aquarium with plexiglass dividers at each end to make a clean water header and a dirty water collector. The dividers are held in place using clear silicone cement. The plexiglass pieces are grooved to accept perforated plastic sheets used by aquarists to separate aggressive fish from each other. The only weak point in the system is a workable drain. I was too timid to attempt cutting a round hole in the glass for a drain siphon. I used a clumsy hose siphon over the edge of the tank and carefully balanced intake and output rates to avoid a flood. Not good.

Steve
Steve more than likely that aquarium is tempered glass. You surely don't want to drill it. "Reef" style tanks are drilled before the glass is tempered.
07-28-2010, 10:20 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by graphicgr8s Quote
Steve more than likely that aquarium is tempered glass. You surely don't want to drill it. "Reef" style tanks are drilled before the glass is tempered.
Hard to say whether it is tempered or not. It was just a cheap 20 gallon bottom-of-the line tank with hood...K-Mart special. If I do shatter the side, I could always replace the pane with one of plexiglass.


Steve

07-28-2010, 04:09 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
RC paper washes fast, really fast. Fiber base paper needs complete fluid changes every 5 minutes or so and with wash times up to an hour is recommended for some brands. So not worry about it?
As he's beginning, i think he'll be using RC paper, cheaper and easier to process...thinking along those lines vs graded paper.
08-10-2010, 10:34 AM   #25
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QuoteQuote:
running sink that would give a constant temperature
Hi NC, probably a TMV,(thermostatic mixing valve) Dentist had/has them for
their processing of dental images. Plumbers and Pipefitters best source of
info. Run into them now most often in facilities that use those godawful
touch-less fixtures that forces us to wash one finger at a time.
Might be a little pricey to buy new, but if you know a plumber thats on a
job that had some dentist in it and interiour is being demo'ed, they'll junk em
Used a 5 gallon igloo insulated water jug for my wash prior to getting TMV.
fed a 16x20 tray (with small piece of) rubber hose, clamped a pair of vice-grips
on the button of the jug to keep things flowing. When jug was filled initally,
would always try have temperature maybe 1 degree celcius above desired
processing temp to account for drift.
Gotta agree, in terms of economy of time and consistancy, those tanks are way to go.
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