[ChrisPlatt]

Another benefit of SS over plastic is that it is easier to control temperature because metal is a poor isulator. I keep everything in a tempered water bath during development and SS and glass jars respond to changes in the tempered water faster and more consistently. Plastic would probably work much better if you were pouring in chemicals and leaving them out in the air though.

Once years ago on deadline I was forced to process some E6 film myself.
I would never do it again, nor anything else so fussy a water bath was required.

Plastic tanks do insulate fairly well, good enough for normal times in normal room temperatures.
FWIW it's easier just to adjust development time for a few degrees deviation from standard.
If it's too cold or too hot in my place the last thing on my mind would be processing film...

Chris

[Vertex Ninja]

Once years ago on deadline I was forced to process some E6 film myself.
I would never do it again, nor anything else so fussy a water bath was required.

Plastic tanks do insulate fairly well, good enough for normal times in normal room temperatures.
FWIW it's easier just to adjust development time for a few degrees deviation from standard.
If it's too cold or too hot in my place the last thing on my mind would be processing film...

Chris

It's only a minor hassle to load everything in a water bath, but at least I know it's all the same temp. My tap's temp can vary widely throughout the year and I do all my processing in the basement where it's hard to keep water over 60-65, especially in the winter. I also use a divided pyro developer where temperature plays a huge role in how much the emulsion swells and absorbs reducer from bath A; typically in the 78-85F range. Keeping my tap-water and containers in open air at that temp consistently would be tough without that tub of warm water. Certainly not required, but it's nice to know that no changes are needed be it single digit winter weather or a 98F summer day.

[BigDave]

And here is an idea or two for heating that water bath. It takes some time to stabilize, but once done is real good, a fish tank heater or a water bed heater. THe nice thing about the water bed heater is that it warms from the bottom AND it is designed to work around plastics and water! You just need to sneak up on the preferred temperature so yo do not overshoot it!

[PGillin]

I use the patterson style reels, that's what my photo classes have all used, but I bought the Adorama brand version. It's much better, it seals well for inversion, works with center column agitation, and has markings on the bottom telling you how much chemistry is needed for a variety of film sizes such as 120, 135, 2x135, 110, etc. They're really good reels, the load very smoothly. I'm in the habit of leaving the leader out on used film cassettes, so I just start the end of the leader before I turn the lights out. I've bolloxed (excuse the expression) a few frames that way, but I don't really use the first frame or two for anything crucial, so it's not a real problem. It's an excellent tank/reel combo, but I second the previous comments about NOT using wet reels. Wet reels are absolutely impossible to load properly.

[GeneV]

And here is an idea or two for heating that water bath. It takes some time to stabilize, but once done is real good, a fish tank heater or a water bed heater. THe nice thing about the water bed heater is that it warms from the bottom AND it is designed to work around plastics and water! You just need to sneak up on the preferred temperature so yo do not overshoot it!

You have to watch out with those tropical fish heaters. They are designed for larger amounts of water, and many don't hold temperature closely enough for E6. I once poached a tank of angelfish with one of them as well. Very sad.

[ChrisPlatt]

You have to watch out with those tropical fish heaters.

I worked in a pet store for many years and have much experience with aquarium heaters.
They cannot be used safely in shallow water. When heated dry the glass tube will crack.
Then if submersed your body will become part of the electrical circuit when you touch the bath.

Chris

[BigDave]

I have used a fish tank heater in a tub of water quite effectively. You need to creep up on the temperature (set it so you know it is low and then raise it a click periodically until the proper temperature is reached). You don't want to set it too high in the beginning to avoid the "poached fish" problem!

You can also just use a 5 gal fish tank as the water bath. Leave a little air in the top of the chem bottle and it will float nicely in the bath!

Regards,

[allyn]

I'm about to start out doing some B&W processing. I got a Paterson System 4 35mm single reel tank off of EBay. It looks like a nice sturdy tank...

I'll probably have some more questions later....

[GeneV]

Just finished a half dozen rolls now using the Hewes reels. Where has this been all my life? I practiced a while with a processed junk roll of film, and voila! Drape the end of the film over the middle of the reel, pull it gently untill it catches, and the film is winding straight.

[Vertex Ninja]

Just finished a half dozen rolls now using the Hewes reels. Where has this been all my life? I practiced a while with a processed junk roll of film, and voila! Drape the end of the film over the middle of the reel, pull it gently untill it catches, and the film is winding straight.

Yeah, the Hewes 35mm reels are nearly worth their weight in gold; essentially foolproof. The Hewes 120 reels are not such a huge leap compared to the others. They are certainly built more sturdily, but the way they load is essentially the same as any 120 reel. The spring is in the opposite direction compared to my other reels, but I still gets occasional kinks developing C-41. The High temperature seems to make the film especially sensitive to any slight misalignment.

I just got some of these Kindermann lids for my Nikor tanks. They are very nice, fill fast, and seem to be leak free. They work really well with the tanks that have a small lip. However, I have a 4x 35mm tank without a lip that is bent and still leaks.

[GeneV]

I've been using the spring clip reels off and on for 40 years, and never really felt great about 36 exp. 135. This is the way all of them should work.

I have no name 120 reels, but the reels are so much more sturdy than the 135 reels, and there is so much space that they have never been a problem. Now 220.... At this point that will no longer be an issue.

[Vertex Ninja]

I've been using the spring clip reels off and on for 40 years, and never really felt great about 36 exp. 135. This is the way all of them should work.

Oddly I have 1 old Nikor reel that has a hook for sprocket holes, but other than the Hewes reels, It's the only one I've seen like that.

I have no name 120 reels, but the reels are so much more sturdy than the 135 reels, and there is so much space that they have never been a problem. Now 220.... At this point that will no longer be an issue.

I almost always have difficulty getting them started, and there doesn't appear to be anyway to be sure that the first 4-5 inches is perfectly straight. I think it's that fierce curl at the beginning of the roll(or end depending how you look at it). I'd appreciate any tips!

[stevebrot]

just got some of these Kindermann lids for my Nikor tanks.

Thanks for the link. I have several Nikor tanks and would like to have a no-leak lid option that will actually fit.

Steve

[Vertex Ninja]

Thanks for the link. I have several Nikor tanks and would like to have a no-leak lid option that will actually fit.

Steve

They are a very snug fit. I've only had them a short while so I don't know how they'll be in a year, but so far so good. Better than other plastic lids I've tried.