What fixer do you use?

tuco · 01-16-2011, 02:04 PM

Originally posted by stevebrot

10 minutes fix followed by 30 minutes wash. If I get pink, it is usually towards the outer margins of the reel. Perhaps I need a different wash setup? I am currently just running water into the tank (lid off) and pouring off for a complete exchange every five minutes of so. A dedicated washer might be a better idea, assuming I can find one of course.

Steve

That should do it.

A hands-free method of washing I employ is I stick a hose down through the center of the reel (assuming stainless reel) with the end cut at 45 deg angle and about a 3/4 of inch past. Place the assembly back into the tank and the hose is attached to a funnel clamped to the faucet. I turn the water on slowly and it comes up from the bottom of the tank and out the top for a slow, continuous exchange of water.

I also have a modified hose you can get from the darkroom supply store for that. It has a rubber end that you can stick on a faucet but that doesn't work on my current faucet with a flared end.

Last edited by tuco; 01-16-2011 at 02:13 PM.

PGillin · 01-22-2011, 09:48 PM

I was wondering, since we seem to have some fixer experts around, if there are any fixers that come as a concentrate, like Rodinal. I've switched from D-76 to Rodinal, and it's much easier to mix up a bit of rodinal than a gallon of d-76, so I'm looking to move from kodak fixer to something rodinal-esque for my fixer as well. Does such a product exist?

Vertex Ninja · 01-23-2011, 09:27 AM

Originally posted by PGillin

I was wondering, since we seem to have some fixer experts around, if there are any fixers that come as a concentrate, like Rodinal. I've switched from D-76 to Rodinal, and it's much easier to mix up a bit of rodinal than a gallon of d-76, so I'm looking to move from kodak fixer to something rodinal-esque for my fixer as well. Does such a product exist?

Ilford's rapid fixer, PF's TF-3,4,5, etc. are all liquid concentrates and need to be diluted to working strength. It would be very expensive and wasteful to use them one shot though, so you'd still want to mix up 1/2 to 1 full gallon at a time. You could probably mix 1 liter at a time, but you'd have to be very, very careful with monitoring it's level of exhaustion.

PGillin · 01-23-2011, 11:19 AM

Originally posted by Vertex Ninja

Ilford's rapid fixer, PF's TF-3,4,5, etc. are all liquid concentrates and need to be diluted to working strength. It would be very expensive and wasteful to use them one shot though, so you'd still want to mix up 1/2 to 1 full gallon at a time. You could probably mix 1 liter at a time, but you'd have to be very, very careful with monitoring it's level of exhaustion.

My general process is to bottle my used fixer, and re-use it three times, 5 minutes the first use, then 10, then 15. I would just prefer to be able to mix a tank's worth at a time to having 4 litres of chemistry laying about.

Vertex Ninja · 01-23-2011, 11:25 AM

Originally posted by PGillin

My general process is to bottle my used fixer, and re-use it three times, 5 minutes the first use, then 10, then 15. I would just prefer to be able to mix a tank's worth at a time to having 4 litres of chemistry laying about.

I think a gallon of working solution is good for 60-120 36 exposure rolls of 35mm. You'd have to figure out how much each tanks worth could handle, but you should be able to mix small amounts at a time. Just to be safe you might want to do a clip test before each session or get some hypo check.

tuco · 01-23-2011, 11:52 AM

Originally posted by Vertex Ninja

Ilford's rapid fixer, PF's TF-3,4,5, etc. are all liquid concentrates and need to be diluted to working strength. It would be very expensive and wasteful to use them one shot though, so you'd still want to mix up 1/2 to 1 full gallon at a time. You could probably mix 1 liter at a time, but you'd have to be very, very careful with monitoring it's level of exhaustion.

I mix my TF-5 in 1000ml working solutions all the time. I pour the remain stock into 250ml bottles since that is what it takes to make 1 liter and don't have to worry about air in the bottle. One liter of working solution is good for 15-18 rolls of film.

On a clipboard hanging on the wall I mark the date and the number of rolls processed. I prepare a new working solution at 15 rolls to be safe. It only takes a few minutes to prepare a new working solution and you're ready to go. So a liter of stock T-4/5 is good for 90 rolls of film for me.

Vertex Ninja · 01-23-2011, 12:04 PM

Originally posted by tuco

I mix my TF-5 in 1000ml working solutions all the time. I pour the remain stock into 250ml bottles since that is what it takes to make 1 liter and don't have to worry about air in the bottle. One liter of working solution is good for 15-18 rolls of film.

On a clipboard hanging on the wall I mark the date and the number of rolls processed. I prepare a new working solution at 15 rolls to be safe. It only takes a few minutes and you're ready to go. So a liter of stock T-4/5 is good for almost 100 rolls of film for me.

Yup, that's roughly what I do. The smaller the amount the more important good record keeping becomes! I use a big amber jug I had around and do 2-4 liters at a time. I'd like to use the smaller 1000ml bottles because they are easier to pour, but I had the jugs and decided they should be put to use.

Nesster · 01-24-2011, 09:12 AM

I do the 1 liter / 1 quart mix thing as well...

I mixed up some of the Zonal Pro EC Rapid fix and so far it seems like a very good product - less smelly than the Ilford, and mainly smells of acetic acid at that.

whojammyflip · 01-26-2011, 12:04 PM

For what its worth, I'm using Fotospeed at the moment and very pleased with it in comparison to the Ilford stuff I had used before. In a 1:4 dilution it fixes Neopan 1600 in 1 minute...I give it 2 just to make sure. I test a bit of the film leader in the fixer whilst I am doing the developing, just to make sure, but it really does clear Neopan 1600 in 1 minute. I bought it mainly because its cheap at GBP 25 for 5L, or USD 8 per litre, but I am very pleased with the speed of the results. Would be interested to see how quickly it clears TMAX.

Ratmagiclady · 02-07-2011, 11:38 AM

Oh, speaking of fixers, I'm currently using 'Silvergrain Clearfix Neutral,' (Freestyle carries it.) It's non-hardening, comes in a liquid for dilution, and is based on Ammonium Thiosulfate and Sodium Sulfite.

Supposed to be an eco-option both in terms of toxicity and requiring less wash-water and time (Which was a pretty big concern here when I originally bought it and is still a nice piece of responsibility, I think. )

Seems to work nicely, so far, and as I'd kind of hoped by going non-hardening fix down here, my negs aren't curling like unruly tape measures as they have been since I arrived, and are flattening much more quickly.

**ChrisPlatt** · 02-07-2011, 01:06 PM

The Kodak FAQ states that used photo chemicals are not safe for septic systems,
and used fixer should not be disposed of in a municipal sewer or septic system.

So how do you dispose of your used darkroom chemicals?
Are there any facilities in your community that accept them?

Chris

BillM · 02-07-2011, 08:40 PM

Community college here has bi-annual event that will dispose of different household
chemicals safely...leftover gasoline for lawnmower,unused paint so on.Remember
mailing that listed items that could be disposed of,dont recall photo chems. being on list.
Do know other cities do something of same,anyone done so?

lithos · 02-08-2011, 11:42 PM

What if you diluted the crap out of the chemicals?

philippe · 02-09-2011, 12:42 AM

I am using FUJI's UNILEC fixer (made by FUJI-HUNT), it's designed for C-41 processing but is works as a marvel for B&W too!
It's very cheap and easy, I order it via a mini lab, it's used in the Fuji Film Processing machines, what makes it an industrial grade product.
It comes in barrels of 25 L concentrate which gives me for about one years work solution at 1+4 (= 125 L work). I know of some amateur photographers who are buying a barrel collectively and decant is in 5 L jugs.
The major advantage, besides price, is it's Ph value, it's a neutral-to-alkalic fixer with a Ph of 7,5 so its is perfect for Pyrocat developing, what I always do. An other advantage is that, while printing on fiber based paper, alkali's are much easier to wash out of the paper fibers than acids, so less water is needed. And last but not least, it lasts very long and can be rejuvenated (not regenerated) by replacing a part of the used — by fresh work solution, again very economic and better for the environment as less of these chemicals are dumped, just monitor it by measuring it's Ph and Ag value. Of corse, work with the two bath method, even for film, it's safer.
To be sure not to lower the Ph value of this fixer, I advice you to use an Buffered Stop Bath of about Ph 5,5 (can be rejuvenated too), or just plain water particularly for Pyrocat film developing.
And, according to some, HCA can be omitted, I just use a 2% Sodium Sulfite bath to be sure.

philippe · 02-10-2011, 03:22 AM

Originally posted by lithos

What if you diluted the crap out of the chemicals?

Not really a solution, the unused silver will be still in the fixer and this is very polluting.
To take out the silver, just pour the exhausted fixer in a bucket and hang a thick string of iron wool in it for a bout a week. The silver will migrate (electrolyze) to the iron and then the silver loaded (plated) iron can be discarded via the traditional solid household garbage collecting system, if this is burned in an appropriate environmentally safe garbage oven of course.
What's left is a fixer like liquid, less environment incriminating (but still) when discarded via the sewer system.
Kodak has a rather good and interesting leaflet about this.

Check the local regulations first!

01-23-2011, 11:25 AM	#35
Vertex Ninja Inactive Account Join Date: May 2007 Location: Indianapolis, Indiana Posts: 652	Originally posted by PGillin My general process is to bottle my used fixer, and re-use it three times, 5 minutes the first use, then 10, then 15. I would just prefer to be able to mix a tank's worth at a time to having 4 litres of chemistry laying about. I think a gallon of working solution is good for 60-120 36 exposure rolls of 35mm. You'd have to figure out how much each tanks worth could handle, but you should be able to mix small amounts at a time. Just to be safe you might want to do a clip test before each session or get some hypo check. Last edited by Vertex Ninja; 01-23-2011 at 11:45 AM.

01-23-2011, 11:52 AM	#36
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,030	Originally posted by Vertex Ninja Ilford's rapid fixer, PF's TF-3,4,5, etc. are all liquid concentrates and need to be diluted to working strength. It would be very expensive and wasteful to use them one shot though, so you'd still want to mix up 1/2 to 1 full gallon at a time. You could probably mix 1 liter at a time, but you'd have to be very, very careful with monitoring it's level of exhaustion. I mix my TF-5 in 1000ml working solutions all the time. I pour the remain stock into 250ml bottles since that is what it takes to make 1 liter and don't have to worry about air in the bottle. One liter of working solution is good for 15-18 rolls of film. On a clipboard hanging on the wall I mark the date and the number of rolls processed. I prepare a new working solution at 15 rolls to be safe. It only takes a few minutes to prepare a new working solution and you're ready to go. So a liter of stock T-4/5 is good for 90 rolls of film for me. Last edited by tuco; 01-23-2011 at 12:02 PM.

02-09-2011, 12:42 AM	#44
philippe Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Flanders Fields Posts: 463	I am using FUJI's UNILEC fixer (made by FUJI-HUNT), it's designed for C-41 processing but is works as a marvel for B&W too! It's very cheap and easy, I order it via a mini lab, it's used in the Fuji Film Processing machines, what makes it an industrial grade product. It comes in barrels of 25 L concentrate which gives me for about one years work solution at 1+4 (= 125 L work). I know of some amateur photographers who are buying a barrel collectively and decant is in 5 L jugs. The major advantage, besides price, is it's Ph value, it's a neutral-to-alkalic fixer with a Ph of 7,5 so its is perfect for Pyrocat developing, what I always do. An other advantage is that, while printing on fiber based paper, alkali's are much easier to wash out of the paper fibers than acids, so less water is needed. And last but not least, it lasts very long and can be rejuvenated (not regenerated) by replacing a part of the used — by fresh work solution, again very economic and better for the environment as less of these chemicals are dumped, just monitor it by measuring it's Ph and Ag value. Of corse, work with the two bath method, even for film, it's safer. To be sure not to lower the Ph value of this fixer, I advice you to use an Buffered Stop Bath of about Ph 5,5 (can be rejuvenated too), or just plain water particularly for Pyrocat film developing. And, according to some, HCA can be omitted, I just use a 2% Sodium Sulfite bath to be sure. Last edited by philippe; 02-09-2011 at 12:50 AM.

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01-16-2011, 02:04 PM	#31
tuco Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pugetopolis Posts: 11,030	Originally posted by stevebrot 10 minutes fix followed by 30 minutes wash. If I get pink, it is usually towards the outer margins of the reel. Perhaps I need a different wash setup? I am currently just running water into the tank (lid off) and pouring off for a complete exchange every five minutes of so. A dedicated washer might be a better idea, assuming I can find one of course. Steve That should do it. A hands-free method of washing I employ is I stick a hose down through the center of the reel (assuming stainless reel) with the end cut at 45 deg angle and about a 3/4 of inch past. Place the assembly back into the tank and the hose is attached to a funnel clamped to the faucet. I turn the water on slowly and it comes up from the bottom of the tank and out the top for a slow, continuous exchange of water. I also have a modified hose you can get from the darkroom supply store for that. It has a rubber end that you can stick on a faucet but that doesn't work on my current faucet with a flared end. Last edited by tuco; 01-16-2011 at 02:13 PM.

01-22-2011, 09:48 PM	#32
PGillin Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Southern Ontario Photos: Albums Posts: 343	I was wondering, since we seem to have some fixer experts around, if there are any fixers that come as a concentrate, like Rodinal. I've switched from D-76 to Rodinal, and it's much easier to mix up a bit of rodinal than a gallon of d-76, so I'm looking to move from kodak fixer to something rodinal-esque for my fixer as well. Does such a product exist?

01-23-2011, 09:27 AM	#33
Vertex Ninja Inactive Account Join Date: May 2007 Location: Indianapolis, Indiana Posts: 652	Originally posted by PGillin I was wondering, since we seem to have some fixer experts around, if there are any fixers that come as a concentrate, like Rodinal. I've switched from D-76 to Rodinal, and it's much easier to mix up a bit of rodinal than a gallon of d-76, so I'm looking to move from kodak fixer to something rodinal-esque for my fixer as well. Does such a product exist? Ilford's rapid fixer, PF's TF-3,4,5, etc. are all liquid concentrates and need to be diluted to working strength. It would be very expensive and wasteful to use them one shot though, so you'd still want to mix up 1/2 to 1 full gallon at a time. You could probably mix 1 liter at a time, but you'd have to be very, very careful with monitoring it's level of exhaustion.

01-23-2011, 11:19 AM	#34
PGillin Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Southern Ontario Photos: Albums Posts: 343	Originally posted by Vertex Ninja Ilford's rapid fixer, PF's TF-3,4,5, etc. are all liquid concentrates and need to be diluted to working strength. It would be very expensive and wasteful to use them one shot though, so you'd still want to mix up 1/2 to 1 full gallon at a time. You could probably mix 1 liter at a time, but you'd have to be very, very careful with monitoring it's level of exhaustion. My general process is to bottle my used fixer, and re-use it three times, 5 minutes the first use, then 10, then 15. I would just prefer to be able to mix a tank's worth at a time to having 4 litres of chemistry laying about.

01-23-2011, 12:04 PM	#37
Vertex Ninja Inactive Account Join Date: May 2007 Location: Indianapolis, Indiana Posts: 652	Originally posted by tuco I mix my TF-5 in 1000ml working solutions all the time. I pour the remain stock into 250ml bottles since that is what it takes to make 1 liter and don't have to worry about air in the bottle. One liter of working solution is good for 15-18 rolls of film. On a clipboard hanging on the wall I mark the date and the number of rolls processed. I prepare a new working solution at 15 rolls to be safe. It only takes a few minutes and you're ready to go. So a liter of stock T-4/5 is good for almost 100 rolls of film for me. Yup, that's roughly what I do. The smaller the amount the more important good record keeping becomes! I use a big amber jug I had around and do 2-4 liters at a time. I'd like to use the smaller 1000ml bottles because they are easier to pour, but I had the jugs and decided they should be put to use.

01-24-2011, 09:12 AM	#38
Nesster Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NJ USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 13,072 Original Poster	I do the 1 liter / 1 quart mix thing as well... I mixed up some of the Zonal Pro EC Rapid fix and so far it seems like a very good product - less smelly than the Ilford, and mainly smells of acetic acid at that.

01-26-2011, 12:04 PM	#39
whojammyflip Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 417	For what its worth, I'm using Fotospeed at the moment and very pleased with it in comparison to the Ilford stuff I had used before. In a 1:4 dilution it fixes Neopan 1600 in 1 minute...I give it 2 just to make sure. I test a bit of the film leader in the fixer whilst I am doing the developing, just to make sure, but it really does clear Neopan 1600 in 1 minute. I bought it mainly because its cheap at GBP 25 for 5L, or USD 8 per litre, but I am very pleased with the speed of the results. Would be interested to see how quickly it clears TMAX.

02-07-2011, 11:38 AM	#40
Ratmagiclady Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: GA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 13,563	Oh, speaking of fixers, I'm currently using 'Silvergrain Clearfix Neutral,' (Freestyle carries it.) It's non-hardening, comes in a liquid for dilution, and is based on Ammonium Thiosulfate and Sodium Sulfite. Supposed to be an eco-option both in terms of toxicity and requiring less wash-water and time (Which was a pretty big concern here when I originally bought it and is still a nice piece of responsibility, I think. ) Seems to work nicely, so far, and as I'd kind of hoped by going non-hardening fix down here, my negs aren't curling like unruly tape measures as they have been since I arrived, and are flattening much more quickly.

02-07-2011, 01:06 PM	#41
ChrisPlatt Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rockaway Beach NYC Posts: 7,697	The Kodak FAQ states that used photo chemicals are not safe for septic systems, and used fixer should not be disposed of in a municipal sewer or septic system. So how do you dispose of your used darkroom chemicals? Are there any facilities in your community that accept them? Chris

02-07-2011, 08:40 PM	#42
BillM Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Ferguson, Mo. Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,348	Community college here has bi-annual event that will dispose of different household chemicals safely...leftover gasoline for lawnmower,unused paint so on.Remember mailing that listed items that could be disposed of,dont recall photo chems. being on list. Do know other cities do something of same,anyone done so?

02-08-2011, 11:42 PM	#43
lithos Inactive Account Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUS Posts: 3,261	What if you diluted the crap out of the chemicals?

02-10-2011, 03:22 AM	#45
philippe Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Flanders Fields Posts: 463	Originally posted by lithos What if you diluted the crap out of the chemicals? Not really a solution, the unused silver will be still in the fixer and this is very polluting. To take out the silver, just pour the exhausted fixer in a bucket and hang a thick string of iron wool in it for a bout a week. The silver will migrate (electrolyze) to the iron and then the silver loaded (plated) iron can be discarded via the traditional solid household garbage collecting system, if this is burned in an appropriate environmentally safe garbage oven of course. What's left is a fixer like liquid, less environment incriminating (but still) when discarded via the sewer system. Kodak has a rather good and interesting leaflet about this. Check the local regulations first!