a great Rodinal article 1979

Nesster · 03-24-2011, 04:58 PM - **2 Likes**

I don't usually put up entire articles, but this one's really exceptional, I learned a lot from reading it. December 1979 Popular Photography.

1979 pop photo Rodinal article::Manual Focus Lenses

**BigDave** · 03-24-2011, 06:03 PM

Having at one time worked for Agfa (graphic arts) I was able to use Rodinal (I got a CASE of it for some work I had to do). I thought it gave better results than any other MHQ developer. And the undilluted developer lasted for WEEKS in an open bottle!

I still have some un-opened bottles 20 years later and it is still perfect! Amazing stuff!

Jools · 03-25-2011, 01:53 AM

Originally posted by Nesster

I don't usually put up entire articles, but this one's really exceptional, I learned a lot from reading it. December 1979 Popular Photography.

1979 pop photo Rodinal article::Manual Focus Lenses

Sweet!
Thanks for posting it, Nesster.
Always enjoy these and your signature links. Great stuff.

Todd Adamson · 03-25-2011, 09:17 AM

Nice, I will read that. I've never done any processing before, but I just got a tank this week, and I've decided Rodinal would be my first go, so some of that on the way as well.

**ChrisPlatt** · 03-27-2011, 10:38 AM

I read Modern Photography and so didn't see that article, but IIRC many were rediscovering Rodinal then.
I first used Rodinal around that time. It was one of the few non-Kodak developers available at my local retailers.

Chris

Todd Adamson · 03-27-2011, 12:30 PM

Just finally got around to reading this, and thanks again for posting. I have a couple of things I'm wondering about, if anyone cares to comment:

1. Can someone clarify what this quote from the article means: "high-dilution Rodinal development means one tank-load and dump. There's no such thing as replenishment..."

2. More importantly, some of the results I have seen on various web sites that I really really liked were "stand developed." Generally, these protocols involved high dilutions, 1:100 and even 1:120, and called for thorough agitation for the first 30 to 60 seconds, then not touching it for the remainder of the developing time, which was very long, like 30, 60, even 90 minutes. But none of the times in this article were anywhere near that long, and it specifically admonishes that agitation is critical to avoid streaking. I was sort of contemplating these "stand" protocols as my initial foray into processing...

stevebrot · 03-27-2011, 01:00 PM

Originally posted by Todd Adamson

Just finally got around to reading this, and thanks again for posting. I have a couple of things I'm wondering about, if anyone cares to comment:

1. Can someone clarify what this quote from the article means: "high-dilution Rodinal development means one tank-load and dump. There's no such thing as replenishment..."

Full strength developer has significant residual activity and can be reused one or more times by adding a volume of fresh developer or a specialized replenisher. Diluted developer, one the other hand, often has the absolute minimum amount of activity to fully develop the image. As such, you use once and dump the depleted chemicals down the drain.

Originally posted by Todd Adamson

2. More importantly, some of the results I have seen on various web sites that I really really liked were "stand developed." Generally, these protocols involved high dilutions, 1:100 and even 1:120, and called for thorough agitation for the first 30 to 60 seconds, then not touching it for the remainder of the developing time, which was very long, like 30, 60, even 90 minutes. But none of the times in this article were anywhere near that long, and it specifically admonishes that agitation is critical to avoid streaking. I was sort of contemplating these "stand" protocols as my initial foray into processing...

Stand and semi-stand development are advanced techniques that require a degree of experience to get right. As with other advanced techniques (pyro for example), you can get truly inspiring results, but there is a degree of trial and error involved. It also helps if you know what you are trying to accomplish. The goal and theory behind stand/semi-stand is to overcome the limited dynamic range of most films to capture the huge dynamic range present with many subjects. In other words, we want to retain shadow detail or possibly even "open up" shadows while avoiding blocked up highlights.

This is accomplished by using a highly dilute developer and creating a micro-environment at the emulsion surface that allows for fast developer depletion in the high density area (builds density slowly) while allowing continued slower-paced development in the low density areas. This is generally referred to as compensating development. The sequence time-wise:

Initial standard agitation for 30-60 seconds. A significant amount of development occurs during this initial period, after which the developer is fairly depleted.
Stand for x-minutes. This is where the micro-environment develops. In the absence of agitation, the developer is quickly depleted in the dense regions, but continues to work in the less dense areas.
Short agitation at x-time. Helps avoid streaks and uneven development.
Stand again for x-minutes. See above...

How well the technique works depends on the developer, the film (many films do not respond well to this technique!), and the subject on the negative. I am not an expert, but have found that the semi-stand works well for my 4x5 landscape work using Foma 100 (Arista.EDU Ultra 100) and HC-110 at high dilution. (HC-110 is generally not even recommended with this film at the standard dilutions due to excessively fast build up of density.) Here is probably the best example I can share:

Arista.EDU Ultra 100, HC-110 dilution G (1+119), semi-stand for 15 minutes

With standard development it would not have been possible to retain the full-sun highlight details (probably at zone XII) with anything visible in the shadows.

For beginners, I would suggest using one of the "standard" developers at one of the "label" dilution/agitation schedules until familiar with what a well-developed negative looks like. With experience comes the freedom to find the sweet spots of film, developer, and technique.

Steve

P.S. With some developers (Edwal FG-7, for example), you can get a degree of compensating effect with a moderate dilutions and purposely gentle agitation at the recommended intervals. Unfortunately the shelf life for FG-7 once opened is miserable unless shielded from oxygen.

Last edited by stevebrot; 03-27-2011 at 01:22 PM.

**fs999** · 03-28-2011, 01:52 AM

Wow ! Nice article. That year I puchased my Canon A-1...

03-24-2011, 04:58 PM - 2 Likes	#1
Nesster Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: NJ USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 13,072	a great Rodinal article 1979 I don't usually put up entire articles, but this one's really exceptional, I learned a lot from reading it. December 1979 Popular Photography. 1979 pop photo Rodinal article::Manual Focus Lenses

03-27-2011, 10:38 AM	#5
ChrisPlatt Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rockaway Beach NYC Posts: 7,693	I read Modern Photography and so didn't see that article, but IIRC many were rediscovering Rodinal then. I first used Rodinal around that time. It was one of the few non-Kodak developers available at my local retailers. Chris Last edited by ChrisPlatt; 03-28-2011 at 10:13 AM.

03-27-2011, 01:00 PM	#7
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by Todd Adamson Just finally got around to reading this, and thanks again for posting. I have a couple of things I'm wondering about, if anyone cares to comment: 1. Can someone clarify what this quote from the article means: "high-dilution Rodinal development means one tank-load and dump. There's no such thing as replenishment..." Full strength developer has significant residual activity and can be reused one or more times by adding a volume of fresh developer or a specialized replenisher. Diluted developer, one the other hand, often has the absolute minimum amount of activity to fully develop the image. As such, you use once and dump the depleted chemicals down the drain. Originally posted by Todd Adamson 2. More importantly, some of the results I have seen on various web sites that I really really liked were "stand developed." Generally, these protocols involved high dilutions, 1:100 and even 1:120, and called for thorough agitation for the first 30 to 60 seconds, then not touching it for the remainder of the developing time, which was very long, like 30, 60, even 90 minutes. But none of the times in this article were anywhere near that long, and it specifically admonishes that agitation is critical to avoid streaking. I was sort of contemplating these "stand" protocols as my initial foray into processing... Stand and semi-stand development are advanced techniques that require a degree of experience to get right. As with other advanced techniques (pyro for example), you can get truly inspiring results, but there is a degree of trial and error involved. It also helps if you know what you are trying to accomplish. The goal and theory behind stand/semi-stand is to overcome the limited dynamic range of most films to capture the huge dynamic range present with many subjects. In other words, we want to retain shadow detail or possibly even "open up" shadows while avoiding blocked up highlights. This is accomplished by using a highly dilute developer and creating a micro-environment at the emulsion surface that allows for fast developer depletion in the high density area (builds density slowly) while allowing continued slower-paced development in the low density areas. This is generally referred to as compensating development. The sequence time-wise: Initial standard agitation for 30-60 seconds. A significant amount of development occurs during this initial period, after which the developer is fairly depleted. Stand for x-minutes. This is where the micro-environment develops. In the absence of agitation, the developer is quickly depleted in the dense regions, but continues to work in the less dense areas. Short agitation at x-time. Helps avoid streaks and uneven development. Stand again for x-minutes. See above... How well the technique works depends on the developer, the film (many films do not respond well to this technique!), and the subject on the negative. I am not an expert, but have found that the semi-stand works well for my 4x5 landscape work using Foma 100 (Arista.EDU Ultra 100) and HC-110 at high dilution. (HC-110 is generally not even recommended with this film at the standard dilutions due to excessively fast build up of density.) Here is probably the best example I can share: Arista.EDU Ultra 100, HC-110 dilution G (1+119), semi-stand for 15 minutes With standard development it would not have been possible to retain the full-sun highlight details (probably at zone XII) with anything visible in the shadows. For beginners, I would suggest using one of the "standard" developers at one of the "label" dilution/agitation schedules until familiar with what a well-developed negative looks like. With experience comes the freedom to find the sweet spots of film, developer, and technique. Steve P.S. With some developers (Edwal FG-7, for example), you can get a degree of compensating effect with a moderate dilutions and purposely gentle agitation at the recommended intervals. Unfortunately the shelf life for FG-7 once opened is miserable unless shielded from oxygen. Last edited by stevebrot; 03-27-2011 at 01:22 PM.

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03-24-2011, 06:03 PM	#2
BigDave Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hudson Valley, NY Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,626	Having at one time worked for Agfa (graphic arts) I was able to use Rodinal (I got a CASE of it for some work I had to do). I thought it gave better results than any other MHQ developer. And the undilluted developer lasted for WEEKS in an open bottle! I still have some un-opened bottles 20 years later and it is still perfect! Amazing stuff!

03-25-2011, 01:53 AM	#3
Jools Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: SW Wisconsin by way of Venezuela Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,398	Originally posted by Nesster I don't usually put up entire articles, but this one's really exceptional, I learned a lot from reading it. December 1979 Popular Photography. 1979 pop photo Rodinal article::Manual Focus Lenses Sweet! Thanks for posting it, Nesster. Always enjoy these and your signature links. Great stuff.

03-25-2011, 09:17 AM	#4
Todd Adamson Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Iowa Posts: 722	Nice, I will read that. I've never done any processing before, but I just got a tank this week, and I've decided Rodinal would be my first go, so some of that on the way as well.

03-27-2011, 12:30 PM	#6
Todd Adamson Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Iowa Posts: 722	Just finally got around to reading this, and thanks again for posting. I have a couple of things I'm wondering about, if anyone cares to comment: 1. Can someone clarify what this quote from the article means: "high-dilution Rodinal development means one tank-load and dump. There's no such thing as replenishment..." 2. More importantly, some of the results I have seen on various web sites that I really really liked were "stand developed." Generally, these protocols involved high dilutions, 1:100 and even 1:120, and called for thorough agitation for the first 30 to 60 seconds, then not touching it for the remainder of the developing time, which was very long, like 30, 60, even 90 minutes. But none of the times in this article were anywhere near that long, and it specifically admonishes that agitation is critical to avoid streaking. I was sort of contemplating these "stand" protocols as my initial foray into processing...

03-28-2011, 01:52 AM	#8
fs999 Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Luxembourg Photos: Gallery Posts: 8,638	Wow ! Nice article. That year I puchased my Canon A-1...