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07-06-2011, 01:17 PM   #16
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Ha ha, smart-a$$ answer, print one pixel per sheet of 8.5x11", lay them in proper order someplace, such as a desert, viewed from outer space, looks pretty darn good!

Kodak no longer makes the low contrast film used for slide copying, but other manufacturers do.

07-06-2011, 02:06 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by hoojammyflip Quote

With digital which records at 30lpmm
really?

well I used to assist my father with some prints from the 6x6 B&W Fomapan shot with Lubitel, and they were usually very nice...but don`t really remember details since I was a kid
07-07-2011, 07:38 PM   #18
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07-08-2011, 08:51 AM   #19
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I have made lots of 40cm x 60 cm prints from Velvia slides using Ilfochrome materials and a good guality enlarger. If you have a good original, image quality is still quite nice. However, it is obvious you are approaching the maximum for a 35 mm original, and beyond this would really prefer to go for medium format

07-08-2011, 09:58 AM   #20
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To record 30lpmm, you need 30*4 pixels per mm. 30*2 pixels for capture when the image is perfectly in phase with the array and then a factor of 2 to account for being pi out of phase. So 4*4*25*15*30*30 would be the resultant sensor size of about 5mp. Going in the reverse direction, if you double the mp, so say 10mp, you have a factor of 1.4, so 40lp/mm. Beyond this frequency, the contrast dips to zero, on a mtf curve, whereas the film contrast would just gradually decline with increasing frequency, instead of dropping off quickly. Its all a moot point though if the lens or anything else cannot resolve 30-40lp/mm. 30lp/mm is quite detailed...you need to be tripod mounted or shooting at 1/1000 to get this kind of resolution.
07-08-2011, 11:10 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by dj_saunter Quote
Generally speaking, what is the largest you would normally consider printing from a 35mm negative?

A) straight from the negative in a darkroom

B) from a digitally scanned negative?

Just out of curiosity, what would the results be for 120 film? (I do not need a 645, I do not need a 645, I do not need...)
In my opinion, there are no fixed rules in this regard. It depends on the photographer's intent and style and subjective opinions of what constitutes acceptable quality.

I view mechanistic calculations based on lens resolution, film resolution, and arbitrary ideas about what constitutes a sharp image to be of limited usefulness in the real world. The bottom line is simply whether a given image works or not.

If I'm doing classic stye landscapes on 35mm, I count on going to 24 inches across. If a shot isn't sharp enough for that size, I've screwed up badly. A substantial portion of my shots work well at 36 inches across. My 35 mm work is often mistaken for 6x9, which is my subjective opinion of what constitutes acceptable quality for that particular milieu.

My 6x7 shots will comfortably go to 30x40 inches, although I usually print 24x30.

In photojournalistic mode, the largest prints I've done were about 6 feet across, from 35mm Kodacolor 200. The shots were printed by a first-class lab. There is visible grain-very crisp grain- but that doesn't hurt the effectiveness of the images at all.They tell the story, and they've been on display in a museum since 1989.

The largest print I've ever been involved with was a copy I made of a very old image, about 2 and a half inches wide. It was printed about 8 feet high by 50 feet wide for a very major museum exhibit. The copy neg was 4x5 Technical Pan processed in highly diluted TMax developer. There was no visible grain from the copy neg.

The original image was technicaly crappy, but worked very well as a design element.

So, it all depends!

John
07-09-2011, 08:38 AM   #22
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In my experience most 35mm negatives look acceptably sharp in 5x7 and smaller prints.
8x10 and larger prints reveal a surprising number that are misfocused or affected by camera shake.

Limiting yourself to the smallest apertures, highest shutter speeds and/or always using a tripod can
help achieve must sharper results, but also nullifies much of the advantage of 35mm photography.

If you plan to print everything 8x10 or larger I suggest you consider using medium format (or larger).

Chris


Last edited by ChrisPlatt; 07-09-2011 at 08:43 AM.
07-09-2011, 08:24 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisPlatt Quote
8x10 and larger prints reveal a surprising number that are misfocused or affected by camera shake.
most camera clubs and photography courses aim to get students to print at 8X10 because of the degree of technique that is required to create a crisp image. Despite advancements in digital image quality this still remains the standard. With my Pentax K10 and K-7 I still consider 8X12 to be the best proof print size for my work.
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