[DougLee]

Hi All,

I've been reading many of the great threads here in anticipation of getting my first MF camera. I am just starting out in film coming from a K200d then a K5 and a number of beautiful Pentax primes!

However, with film, I am starting out slow to see how things go. I have purchased a cheap Yashica TLR, which should arrive today. plan on developing and scanning my own film and would like some advice on whether or not what I am ordering is what I need and is reasonable given my desire to keep cost relatively low at this stage.

Here's what I am about to order:

Samigon Developing tank (accompdateds 120 film)
Kodak HC-110 B&W developer
Kodak Indicator Stop Both
Kodak Photo Flow
Kodak Tri-X 400TX
Kalt Large changing bag (27"X30")
Epson V600 Scanner

Do these sound like reasonable purchases for someone getting started in B&W film development? Other things you think I should be getting? Would you substitue any of these items for something else?

Thanks in advance for you insights!

Doug

[ChrisPlatt]

For film only you don't need stop bath; you can use plain water instead. You will need fixer though.
You will need a graduate to measure and mix chemicals, and storage bottles to keep them in.
An infant medicine syringe (available at any drug store) is the best way to measure HC110 (and Rodinal).
I strongly recommend you get a funnel and mixing paddle.
A good thermometer and film clips are also necessities.
An accurate countdown timer is very good to have, too.

Good luck!

Chris

[PeterAM]

Set up a line and some clips in a dust free area (hah!) where you can hang the film to dry. Then you need some archival sleeves to store the negatives in and a methodology for getting dust off the negs when you go to scan.

[DougLee]

Thanks for the helpful information Chris and Peter!

[BillM]

Looks like very nice kit you've put together Doug.Little yashica's not cheaply made,
quality piece of equipment,will to produce quality images.
Second whats been mentioned already.Will want dark,non-transparent storage
container for developer should you mix enough to cover needs for a number of
sessions,over period of days.Pretty much use anything for fixer in same regard.
Digital kitchen egg timers can be had for $4-$5,count up/down.Work nicely.
Prefer good,long wash after fixing B/W.Use a paterson force film washer.
One end is flared,sleeves over tap,other end,hard plastic fitting that
attaches to tank.Had a jobo that does same,had flow indicater integral.
Not sure if those will work with your tank,if interested,verify compatability.
Do bulk of washing with tap water,mix wetting agent(photoflow) with distilled
water,have always used distilled water for developer and fixer too.
Dont know if you've been to Freestyle(photo).biz,if you havent,might want to check them out.

[stevebrot]

Looks like you have it covered when you add in a thermometer and a couple of graduated cylinders. The HC-110 developer is sort of a pain to work with due to the viscosity of the syrup. A 5ml syringe without needle is the solution. Make up what you need as you need it. The syrup lasts a long time undiluted. For information on dilutions and usage see:

Kodak HC-110 Developer - Unofficial Resource Page

The easiest dilution for general use is dilution "H". Simply double the dilution "B" times and give yourself a little breathing room on the timing.

In regards to stop bath, Chris has it right that you don't really need an acid stop bath for most developers. A lot depends on how critical it is to stop the reaction in a timely manner. I usually compromise by making the stop bath up at 50% of the strength indicated on the bottle.


Steve

[DougLee]

Thanks Steve and Bill. Its great to be able to come here and get such helpful input. I know you guys are saving me money and time.

[HGMonaro]

if you don't have a cupboard or somewhere to hang film to dry, try your shower... just make sure no one uses it while the films in there

Only use the smallest amount of photoflo in the final rinse (in distilled water). I use Ilford wetting agent but use a drop or two in the tank and get spotless negs.

So as others have suggested, drop the stop bath and get some with fixer. I wouldn't recommend reusing developer, mix as one-shot as Stevevrot suggests but diluted fixer is good for several films. Get a thermometer and check out some electronic gadget stores for a timer. I've got one that 'talks' as it counts down. Works well as I can get sidetracked and forget to agitate my tank but this thing screams at me "2 minutes to go, 1 minute to go, 50seconds to go, etc...." Was about $5 I think.

Another thing I'd add... I don't scan my film (I make wet prints) but when I have, I've never have enjoyed scanning 400ISO film unless it's Delta 400 (and so maybe TMAX400). I find grain really shows up (could be my flatbed scanner) so unless you're using 400 to be able to handhold that Yashica, I'd also try some 100-125 speed film and see what results I like.

Cheers, Nige

[GeneV]

I also use the shower for drying, but I found that running the shower a bit beforehand really cuts down on the dust and spotting.

I like to use the stop bath. It is cheap, quick and not all that critical to mix. I use Ilford's Rapid Fixer, which is not cheap, and I want to get as many uses out of it as I can.

[DougLee]

Thanks guys. I've got timer an some large clips that I thinik will work to have the negs. I'll remember the shower trick for dust. As also ordering sleves to store that negs in and I can get srynges no problem as I work in a scientific lab.

Thanks for all the hepful comments. I got the camera yesterday, its in excellent condition, hard to believe it's older than I am!! Wish I looked so good. Everyting seems to work just fine, so for $97 I feel good about my purchase. Will order some slower film as well and see how I like the look vs the 400 film. So much to try out and explore, I can't wait to get started

[BillM]

Sounds like full agenda Doug,going to busy for awhile,in good kind of way.
One thing you might want to add to field kit with your TLR is a steel measuring
tape and lens set data related to DOF.Up close especially,at least with mine,
no way to check DOF thru viewing lens.Really flying by seat of pants in that
regard.As you shoot a little with it,you'll aquire experience and wont need it so
much.Will prevent a little frustration with first few rolls though.

[DougLee]

Point well taken Bill. I anticipate that Shooting with the Yashica will be a very different experience than shooting with my K5. It will be much more about slowing down and planning the shot in detail before tripping the shutter. I like the tape measure idea in this regard.

Thanks, Doug

[wombat2go]

Hi, Doug and Monaro
I am starting to scan 35 mm Tmax 400 and HP5 (@iso800) on the V600 scanner
The grain that shows up is not down at the level of the film grain as shown by 8* loupe on a 9 by 5 photo print.
Scan artifacts appear as granularity which varies from 2400 DPI through to 12800.
12800 is smoother but long scan time. 2400 dpi is quite OK. I have not decided the best scan resolution yet.
The V600 win driver app by default puts an unsharp mask.
I expect the V600 will work proportionally better on your larger format negs.

[stevebrot]

...Scan artifacts appear as granularity which varies...

Thanks for making this point. Unlike an optical enlargement, very few scanners are able to accurately resolve the film grain (if indeed they can resolve the film grain at all). Instead, what we get is interference artifact that is often made worse by USM (depending on settings).


Steve

[stevebrot]

I anticipate that Shooting with the Yashica will be a very different experience

Yep...much different in almost all ways! From shooting stance to composing to the square format, the whole world looks and feels different. Be prepared for some disappointments on the first few rolls. It takes time.


Steve

(Still not doing very well with my "baby" Yashica-44...)