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07-30-2011, 02:36 PM   #1
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Development suggestions on expired film

Hey guys, I have two different scenarios for expired film that I'd like to get some suggestions on, if possible, before I go develop these tomorrow.

First off, I have a darkroom set up at my friends house, no room here unfortunately. And at the moment our developer we're using is Ilford's Ilfosol 3 at 1:9 dilution.

About 5 years ago, my old photography teacher gave me a roll of 120 Tmax 100 speed film. It expired in 1996, but I know he kept it in the fridge, most likely the entire time. And I, too, have kept this roll in my fridge until I pulled it out last week to finally use it. Ilfosol's development time would put it at 5 1/2 minutes, since it's so old, what adjustments should I make? I'm sure it's been refrigerated since before it's expiration date, so I'm not sure how much that really helps.

And second, I was playing around with my friends old Ansco camera his uncle found for him years ago at a thrift store. Neither of them bothered to open the back until I did the other day. Low and behold, an exposed roll of 620 film. Here's a link to a photo I found on someone's blog of the same roll.

It reads, "Exposed. Panchromatic. Made In England."

Since I'm sure this roll is several decades old, I'm not sure I know the first thing on what to do with it, other than maybe a clip test first. I've read around on various forums, everyone has their own opinion, and quite a few recommend HC110 B, which I don't have at the moment. Honestly, I'm not too concerned on how it turns out at all, I just wanna dunk it in and see what happens. But, I'm curious if anyone has any ideas, too.

Thanks for reading through all this and I appreciate any suggestions.


07-30-2011, 03:00 PM   #2
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about expired film : it was kept in the fridge all time, so it will be "like new" or almost. Developp it as normal. maybe shake a bit more during processing than usual to get better contrast.

For the "Made in England" i would suggest you some Chemical known for a long time, and maybe not too concentrate to not destroy the film.
07-30-2011, 04:23 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by cscurrier Quote
any ideas
Development as normal sounds good Cameron,wouldnt even adjust aggitation.
Establish a baseline for yourself in that regard.
Want to boost contrast,use yellow or green filter,adjust exposure.
Baseline gives you data for future,take notes too.

HC... is great for number of reasons,shelf longevity of concentrate and economic
advantage of one shot dilution being largest.Number of other factors that makes
it one, if not the best.
Availabilty is very good also.On the downside,its a royal PITA to mix.Very good stuff,otherwise

I like using D-76,only because I find it so easy to buy and mix.
Secondarily it will give a bit finer grain,kind of moot here.

Edit: "not too concerned on how it turns out at all" that being said Cameron,anything important take to a lab.
Otherwise,have fun,take notes.

Heres a link to freestyle photographic,get an ideal of price and research your desires.

Freestyle Photographic Supplies - Traditional Black & White Film, Paper, Chemicals, Holgas and ULF

Last edited by BillM; 07-30-2011 at 04:53 PM.
07-30-2011, 04:40 PM   #4
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For folks reading this thread wanting precious old film developed there is: Film Rescue International.

The cold-stored film should develop as with new film. If photos are precious, however, consider cutting a frame into thin strips for determining optimum dev time.

The same technique for the 620 -- sacrifice a frame by cutting into thin test strips. This film probably needs increased time in developer...

08-01-2011, 08:12 PM   #5
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Hey team!

Actually film gets MORE sensitive as time goes on, being more susceptible to background fog ( a higher base plus fog to the image). I would suggest, first do some research into the type/make of the 620 Pan film and see if you can't find an older recommendation for developing time. I would go with the D76 developer as it was around for decades and the formulation was quite universal. Their should be some crossover information for whatever film the 620 actually was, also.

Once you find the base exposure, doing a "clip test" will be the way to go. If the negatives are flat due to BG fog, no worries, you can always increase contrast in various ways. Just don't make the negatives bullet proof by OVER processing! You will sacrifice a frame or so, but you can't bake a cake without breaking a few eggs, now can you??

Good luck and tell us how you did!
08-02-2011, 02:41 PM   #6
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Today, after not doing film developing since, uhmm circa 25 years, I developed an Ilford Pan 100 roll which was shot, I believe some 3 years ago, and was stored in its plastic case on my bookshelf. I used Agfa Rodinal at 1:50 / 20 degrees C. The given table indicated 18 minutes, I processed it close to 20. The results are very fine, some minimal fog on the edge, but AFAIR this is not something I never saw with a fresh film. Tomorrow I will post some photos from this roll.

This is amazing, howtolerant the analog technology is Being in the digital age already two decades, I sometimes forget how easy this technology was...
08-02-2011, 09:11 PM   #7
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Thank you everyone for the tips. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to make it over to our darkroom, and I'm not sure when I'll be able to exactly. I appreciate everyone's input and I'll definitely share what comes out in the end!
08-03-2011, 03:16 AM   #8
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You need only a dark place (it is easy at night) and put the film into the developer tank. You can develop it any time later...

08-04-2011, 12:54 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by kenez Quote
You need only a dark place (it is easy at night) and put the film into the developer tank. You can develop it any time later...
Yes... but my tank and chemicals are all at my darkroom.

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