[stevebrot]

I have the Labokit darkroom kit (B & H) with " 2 multiformat self feed spirals" (plastic reels) I have been using on 35 mm and now i want to do some 120. but i can't see how to open up the reels.
It looks like there are concentric axles in there, and some slots more than would be needed for just the rocking motion. I pulled hard till scared it would break.
The manual explains "a) 35mm cartridge" but there is no "b)" for any other format'.
Does anybody know?
thanks

I am not familiar with the Labokit reel, but if it is the common "Patterson" type reel, you release it by twisting one side clockwise relative to the other.


Steve

[Kaufeetime]

I mix 1liter/quart of fix and developer at a time. Developer is light sensitive so store in a brown bottle. Save the brown bottle Hydrogen Peroxide comes in, a liter costs about a $1.00. The clear water bottle is used for fixer. I use Oral syringe to measure developer straight from the original bottle. The oven timer is not accurate for developer I only use for rinsing,while I'm developing the second can. How to Make Simple Solutions and Dilutions page will help if someone has a question about mixing chemicals.

[tlong423]

So after a few rolls of different kinds of film I really discovered something. I really don't like HP5+ in 135. I know it's versatile, and everyone seems to favor it, but I never like my shots with this film. Nothing ever seems to be in focus, or at least it looks that way. And I'm not a fan of the grain. I used to shoot HP5 a lot in photo class since it was the required film, and I hated it there too.

So on to my question. Is there a magical film in 135 that can come close to the clean look of 120? Maybe Delta? Tmax? How about developers? I think I read that developers can affect the grain structure and contrast (perceived sharpness) and I've been using Ilfosol 3. I'm thinking about trying DD-X due to Ilfords claim that it is good for "fine grain". Searches on Filmdev.org brought me to like the look of a lot of Tmax in Tmax dev shots, too.

Wow -- I have always loved HP5, but then my background is in newspaper photojournalism where grain was acceptable (and even preferred, frequently). I used to use Tri-X a very long time ago, but I switched to HP5 in journalism school because of its (in my opinion) superior curve.

While I have not yet tried it, I have seen people get remarkably beautiful negatives with Fuji's Neopan Acros 100 -- especially using stand (or semi-stand) developing. Indeed, I would really suggest you consider ordering some Rodinal (well, technically it's now called Adox Adonal) from Freestyle and trying stand developing. A bottle of Rodinal is good for decades (thus, very economical), and it gives beautiful results when diluted ~1:100. I develop my rolls (35mm and 120) for one hour with a short agitation at the beginning, at 20 minutes, and at 40 minutes. I love the results.

[wombat2go]

Thanks for info on reel adjustment Steve.
Yes, holding the key way side up rotate firmly clockwise to release. Then line up for 120 film and rotate anti cw to lock

[eddie1960]

Wow -- I have always loved HP5, but then my background is in newspaper photojournalism where grain was acceptable (and even preferred, frequently). I used to use Tri-X a very long time ago, but I switched to HP5 in journalism school because of its (in my opinion) superior curve.

While I have not yet tried it, I have seen people get remarkably beautiful negatives with Fuji's Neopan Acros 100 -- especially using stand (or semi-stand) developing. Indeed, I would really suggest you consider ordering some Rodinal (well, technically it's now called Adox Adonal) from Freestyle and trying stand developing. A bottle of Rodinal is good for decades (thus, very economical), and it gives beautiful results when diluted ~1:100. I develop my rolls (35mm and 120) for one hour with a short agitation at the beginning, at 20 minutes, and at 40 minutes. I love the results.

in 35 anyway Neopan across (100 and 400) are available as no name house brand from Freestyle photo (Legacy Pro brand)

[G and T]

I have been getting great results with Fuji Neopan Acros and Ilford Delta both "souped" in Ilfotec LC29 diluted at 1-19.
Glenn

[fstop]

There have certainly been enough excellent suggestions for nearly any contingency. I would only add the following:
Make sure there is hardener in the fixer, film can be fixed without it, but it scratches much more easliy.
Using fingers to lightly squeegee the film is fine, make sure they're clean and don't grind it, it's just to remove excess liquid, the sheeting action of the PhotoFlo, or the like will allow the film to dry spot free.
I have read debates for decades about the proper method of agitation and while there are some decidedly bad things you can do, and some that seem based on the stars, the purpose is simply to gently move the developer around, so whatever you do, do it consistently; I suggest 2 gentle top to bottom agitations every 30 seconds or so.
Try to keep the temperatures of solutions consistent.
Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, or similar will dramatically reduce wet time.
Resist the urge to peek at the negatives until they are fully fixed!
If you mix D76, or it's Ilford counterpart ID-11, be careful not to use water hotter than indicated or you can degrade the chemistry.
Glass containers can be dangerous if broken, but the brown glass jugs I got from a pharmacy were much nicer than any plastic that I ever used, a lot easier to clean and didn't breathe through its walls.
As long as a thermometer registers the same thing each time and you can read it, it's useful, but I think if you could find a Weston Mirrorband dial thermometer that you would find it much easier to read and highly accurate; little things can mean a lot.
It may be overkill, but I always used double the space, that is, one reel with film on the bottom, one without film above it in a filled double tank.
If you're going to do much of this it would be well worth your while to find some Nikkor stainless steel double tanks, they're really nice to work with.
Wet sticky film is a dust magnet to end all dust magnets. You can find electric film drying cabinets, but a plastic bag of sufficient depth and width with holes in the bottom hung on a door or wall can be a big help, as can a humid room, but if there is dust you can be assured it will find its way.
Changing bags are nice and you should own one, but if you have a dark room you'll be a lot happier not stuck in a bag, at least until you're used to what you're doing.
I think it's rather nice that all of these suggestions are pouring in because we want you to be successful. To that end I wish you success as well!

---

Last edited by fstop; 05-01-2012 at 04:11 PM.

[tlong423]

in 35 anyway Neopan across (100 and 400) are available as no name house brand from Freestyle photo (Legacy Pro brand)

Sadly, I don't think that is the case any longer. Freestyle's own brand stuff is made in the Czech Republic now, so I am assuming it is a re-branded Foma film. I called them to ask about the Legacy Pro film, and it is no longer available.

I did, however, try the Fuji Acros 100 in my 645 last weekend, and the results were really excellent. At the moment, no one in North America seems to have the film available in 120 format, but Freestyle is expecting a shipment in a couple of weeks, so I have pre-ordered a couple dozen rolls. This weekend I think I will try it in the 35mm format.

[tuco]

I have read debates for decades about the proper method of agitation and while there are some decidedly bad things you can do, and some that seem based on the stars, the purpose is simply to gently move the developer around, so whatever you do, do it consistently; I suggest 2 gentle top to bottom agitations every 30 seconds or so.
...

I'd suggest someone follow the manufacture's recommended agitation profile for their developer/film combo as a start. I can think of several developers your recommended agitation profile is not a good for them. If, for example, a developer wants a vigorous agitation profile and you apply a gentle one, you'll affect the speed of the film for the recommended development time and possibly uneven development.

[eddie1960]

I'd suggest someone follow the manufacture's recommended agitation profile for their developer/film combo as a start. I can think of several developers your recommended agitation profile is not a good for them. If, for example, a developer wants a vigorous agitation profile and you apply a gentle one, you'll affect the speed of the film for the recommended development time and possibly uneven development.

Agreed for anyone starting get the workflow down following all the recommended times and developers, once you are getting consistent results start experimenting. the Massive Dev Chart is a good place to start for that since these are all tested processes submitted by users (the best have notes with them)

Digitaltruth Photo - The Massive Dev Chart B&W Film Development Database

Edit

I'll add if you have an iPhone or other compliant phone the mobile App rocks, acting as a timer as well

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?doc=mobile

[fstop]

I'd suggest someone follow the manufacture's recommended agitation profile for their developer/film combo as a start. I can think of several developers your recommended agitation profile is not a good for them. If, for example, a developer wants a vigorous agitation profile and you apply a gentle one, you'll affect the speed of the film for the recommended development time and possibly uneven development.

I agree in spirit, Tuco, but again, the purpose of agitation (film, not photographer!) is to move developer around, too vigorous agitation and you can have edge effects, or development effects around the sprocket holes. That's one reason I always used a double tank or tray so that there would be plenty of chemical available, such as when using a highly dilute developer. As this thread has demonstrated, most people have their preference for what works for them, and rightly so. Last, I absolutely agree that manufacturers recommendations should trump personal ones, that was a very good point that you brought up; so were your others. And last, the bottom line is I wish the OP best of luck, you have gotten some good advice.

[tuco]

I agree in spirit, Tuco, but again, the purpose of agitation (film, not photographer!) is to move developer around, too vigorous agitation and you can have edge effects...

What are sprocket holes? My film doesn't have any Seriously though, it is developer dependent what is too vigorous sprocket holes or not. Kodak's recommendations for small tanks and their T-Max films, for example, is quite "brisk". 5 to 7 inversions within 5 seconds on a 30 second schedule. And that is time-tested for 135 format.

I'd say edges effect on sprocket holes are from too gentle of an agitation profile causing laminar flow. The developer is not being replenished enough in the boundary layer of the fluid around them and gets exhausted. It's what is known in fluid mechanics as "turbulent flow" is required to disrupt the fluid boundary layer given no other forces are at play.

[fstop]

What are sprocket holes? My film doesn't have any Seriously though, it is developer dependent what is too vigorous sprocket holes or not. Kodak's recommendations for small tanks and their T-Max films, for example, is quite "brisk". 5 to 7 inversions within 5 seconds on a 30 second schedule. And that is time-tested for 135 format.
.

If it's all the same to you, and with all due respect to your knowledge, I would prefer to make this my last comment, that the above quote is what I agreed with in my last post -what the manufacturer says is best. After that, what works best for you is the best course of action.

[tuco]

If it's all the same to you, and with all due respect to your knowledge, I would prefer to make this my last comment, that the above quote is what I agreed with in my last post -what the manufacturer says is best. After that, what works best for you is the best course of action.

Sorry, my mistake, I read what you said wrong

[brofkand]

I never got good results with Ilfosol 3. I gave up on it and switched to Rodinal and HC110.