[unixrevolution]

If it's any help, I bought a Soligor and two Westerns. After using both, I sold the Westerns and bought two Soligors to replace them. The Soligor film loaders are delightful: Easy to use, no fogging, and no felt light trap to get dusty.

As for cost, I figure I get 18 rolls of 36 exposures per 100ft roll. Some say more than that. Lets use Delta 400 for an example:

1 36Exp roll of Delta400 costs 5.95. 18 rolls of that cost 107.10

The Delta 400 bulk roll is 56.95. That's just about half. Much the same story for PanF 50. $5.49 a roll, or 48.95 per 100 feet. Kentmere 400 at $3 a roll or $29.99 for 100' also works way in favor of self-rolling.

With some films, like Tri-X, the difference isn't so much. $72 in cans vs. $63 in bulk. At that point, I'd probably go with factory loads for the sake of convenience, though being able to roll your own length of film is nice, and I may still bulk load just for that purpose. I typically load 24 shot rolls, for example. My arms aren't long enough to squeegee a 36-exposure roll, and finding places to hang them is tough without a darkroom

The loaders cost me $10 each and I got the metal cans from Freestyle, so my whole bulk-load setup is slightly more than one 100' roll of Tri-X. All in all, well worth the investment if I shoot a lot of Ilford. Which I plan to.

I

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Last edited by unixrevolution; 08-16-2012 at 01:07 PM.

[Zivelot]

I am still using up a bulk roll of Tmax 400 but my next one will be Ilford's P4 Surveillance film. I figured that it is going to be around £1.50 per a 36 exposure roll, although I usually load 24 exposures which is easyer to handle so might end up with slightly more per roll.

Any experience out there with Ilford P4 Surveillance film?

[unixrevolution]

I am still using up a bulk roll of Tmax 400 but my next one will be Ilford's P4 Surveillance film. I figured that it is going to be around £1.50 per a 36 exposure roll, although I usually load 24 exposures which is easyer to handle so might end up with slightly more per roll.

Any experience out there with Ilford P4 Surveillance film?

Information on the Ilford P4 400 Surveillance Film - Rangefinderforum.com

[PGillin]

I realize that this is an old thread, but I have a bit of a question for you bulk-loaders out there.
I just started loading (by hand, I have a yardstick and a very clean, large film-loading area), and I cannot at all seem to get the ends cut STRAIGHT. Close, yes, but not quite perfect. Does this matter?
Also, is it problematical if the tape from the spool protrudes slightly from the cartridge? Not enough to reach the shutter, mind you, only a few millimetres, at the outside.
Presumably both of these things are still important with a bulk loader, if it's being used in the dark the cutting seems to still present a challenge, and the length of the tape is irrelevant to the method used to spool the film.

[tclausen]

I realize that this is an old thread, but I have a bit of a question for you bulk-loaders out there.
I just started loading (by hand, I have a yardstick and a very clean, large film-loading area), and I cannot at all seem to get the ends cut STRAIGHT. Close, yes, but not quite perfect. Does this matter?
Also, is it problematical if the tape from the spool protrudes slightly from the cartridge? Not enough to reach the shutter, mind you, only a few millimetres, at the outside.
Presumably both of these things are still important with a bulk loader, if it's being used in the dark the cutting seems to still present a challenge, and the length of the tape is irrelevant to the method used to spool the film.

Hmm, I remember from my film-days that getting things cut straight was something I never ever worried about. I don't think that I made a single straight cut, ever...

"Tape from the spool", that'd be what you'd use for fixing the film to the spool? Try to not go overboard, but if it sticks out a few mm when you reach the end of your film roll, that's not going to be a problem. Never paid attention to such myself either.

[PGillin]

Hmm, I remember from my film-days that getting things cut straight was something I never ever worried about. I don't think that I made a single straight cut, ever...

"Tape from the spool", that'd be what you'd use for fixing the film to the spool? Try to not go overboard, but if it sticks out a few mm when you reach the end of your film roll, that's not going to be a problem. Never paid attention to such myself either.

Thanks, that actually answers both questions quite well. I was trying to strike a balance between too much and too little tape (it was, after all, my first time bulk-loading), and I couldn't seem to get a reassuring length on without it protruding a bit.
Is masking tape a decent choice, or are all my rolls going to fail catastrophically at the end of the roll?

[unixrevolution]

Thanks, that actually answers both questions quite well. I was trying to strike a balance between too much and too little tape (it was, after all, my first time bulk-loading), and I couldn't seem to get a reassuring length on without it protruding a bit.
Is masking tape a decent choice, or are all my rolls going to fail catastrophically at the end of the roll?

From what I know of the subject, masking tape is the best choice. I use Blue painter's tape.

[tuco]

From what I know of the subject, masking tape is the best choice. I use Blue painter's tape.

The adhesion properties of that tape is not very good. But it doesn't need to be I guess. I use electrical tape. Strong and peels off really easy and not inadvertently.

[tclausen]

The adhesion properties of that tape is not very good. But it doesn't need to be I guess. I use electrical tape. Strong and peels off really easy and not inadvertently.

I've used both painters masking tape, electrical tape, regular office tape, and it really is not a big deal which it is.

Worry about dust in the light trap felt, not what brand of tape to use

[ChrisPlatt]

I experienced several failures with masking tape. I ripped the exposed film
off the spool when I unknowingly attempted to wind past the last frame.

Electrical tape is stronger, won't dry out and get brittle, can be peeled off
and repositioned easily if necessary, and leaves no residue.
Stick with a good brand like 3M Scotch Super 33+.

Chris

[Not a Number]

I had two of the Watson loaders. I loaded the cassettes in a changing bag or the darkroom so fogging at the spool end was never a problem. All you had to do was count the clicks and add a few for the leader. I don't know what happened to them, they must have gotten thrown out or I loaned them to a friend. I still have the instructions and box though.

I always used the standard buff colored masking tape and never had a problem with it. A little tape coming out of the cassette at the end never caused a problem either.

[tuco]

I experienced several failures with masking tape. I ripped the exposed film
off the spool when I unknowingly attempted to wind past the last frame.

Electrical tape is stronger, won't dry out and get brittle, can be peeled off
and repositioned easily if necessary, and leaves no residue.
Stick with a good brand like 3M Scotch Super 33+.

Chris

Exactly the reason why I made mention of a different tape. When I used that painters tape and did a pull test to simulate the end of the roll, I had no confidence it would hold well. Of course a lot depends on how much of the film you tape but you don't need much on the film for the electrical tape to hold well.

[ChrisPlatt]

When I used that painters tape and did a pull test to simulate the end of the roll, I had no confidence it would hold well.

At least twice the failed masking tape left me with a camera I could no longer use.
I had to wait until I got home to unload the exposed film in a changing bag.
Take it from me, it's a lousy way to abruptly end a day's shooting!

Chris

[stevebrot]

I use standard masking tape (not painter's tape), but am pretty generous with it. I put about an inch up one side, go round the spindle and put the same amount up the other side, being careful to make sure that the film is butted to the spindle. I don't know that I have ever had the tape come loose. It probably helps too that I generally stop at 35 exposures. The negative sheets I use only hold that many.


Steve

(...unless, of course, I am shooting with the Kiev 4A. That camera has the smallest gap imaginable between frames...)

[Not a Number]

I use standard masking tape (not painter's tape), but am pretty generous with it. I put about an inch up one side, go round the spindle and put the same amount up the other side, being careful to make sure that the film is butted to the spindle. I don't know that I have ever had the tape come loose.
Steve

That's exactly what I do. Factory loaded cassettes I've always used were taped in a similar fashion.

There is practically no way for the tape to fail if you do this. The sprockets holes will tear out before then. I've had that happen when a motor drive malfunctioned.