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01-10-2013, 07:35 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by obscura Quote
IQ wise how do they compare... ? v500vs9000f?
i don't have the slightest idea, but i guess they are very close.

both offer more or less the same spec AFAIR. i remember that Canon have some IR scanning fonction called FARE for damaged film, in order to recover some data on those.

01-10-2013, 07:39 AM   #17
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hmmm they are the same price range, so yes, they should be close...
its a dillema
01-18-2013, 10:56 AM   #18
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Vinegar solution might work, and you can also make your own coffee-based developer, but please wait for the fixer to arrive. You want to start off on the right foot before you start mixing your own chemistry. Developing your own film is awesome!

I have the V500 and, I hate to say it, the negatives just will not lay flat. I bought one of the pieces of glass that sits on top of the negatives and it makes a HUGE difference (I can post photos) so that now I can't scan unless I use the glass insert, which makes it not fun (I need to buy another glass insert so I can do two strips at once). I'm saving for something better.

Todd
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01-19-2013, 03:32 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by tbreslow Quote
Vinegar solution might work, and you can also make your own coffee-based developer, but please wait for the fixer to arrive. You want to start off on the right foot before you start mixing your own chemistry. Developing your own film is awesome!
i got everything few days ago but with all my exams (i'm a student) i didn't find any time to do it i'll try to do it tonight
For coffe chemistry i've read a lot of good thing, but it's usually for "slow film", i have 6 or 7 rolls of Tmax expose at 800/1600/3200 to process, and i think it will be a bit too long to process

01-19-2013, 11:52 AM   #20
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Hello everyone !

Just finish processing my first roll

Kodak T max 400 @1600

It's drying in my bathroom.


So i have fews question !

I developped (with T-MAx) the right time but sometimes i missed the 30sec shaking, and did it @45sec, then 20 sec later than i ratook the right timing.
-> Any consequences ?

i used the stop bath around 1 min instead of 10 sec (had hard time getting 20°C water sometimes)
-> any consequences ?

I used the fixing bath (all ilford now) for 6min 30sec instead of the 2-5 min recommended, it was purple when i empty the tank
-> any consequences ?

I made a mistake and used ilford washaid directly instead of using water first for a first washing, then using washaid. After i did water in the tank, 20 shakes, empty it, replenish it, 40 shakes, again, 60 shakes. a little bit of running water (maybe 1 or 2 min.
-> any consequences ?

Should i expect some kind of variation over time on the neg ?

I also realise that the last pictures (placed at the "heart" of the tank) where almost all black, does the fact that it was -5°C did have any influence on the ability of the film to react with light ?
I ask, because i did almost a roll of TMAX @3200 by -5°C so should i push it a little bit more like 10% processing ?

If you have some advice i'm all ears !

Thanks guys !
01-19-2013, 02:34 PM   #21
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one more question : it seems that the end of the film is not "see through", but when i bring the film to light i found some picture.

Should i put this part in some fixer again ?
01-20-2013, 10:48 PM   #22
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I developped (with T-MAx) the right time but sometimes i missed the 30sec shaking, and did it @45sec, then 20 sec later than i ratook the right timing.
-> Any consequences ?
Nope

i used the stop bath around 1 min instead of 10 sec (had hard time getting 20°C water sometimes)
-> any consequences ?
For 1 min instead of 10 sec? Not sure I understand but you can't "over stop"

I used the fixing bath (all ilford now) for 6min 30sec instead of the 2-5 min recommended, it was purple when i empty the tank
-> any consequences ?
Good!

I made a mistake and used ilford washaid directly instead of using water first for a first washing, then using washaid. After i did water in the tank, 20 shakes, empty it, replenish it, 40 shakes, again, 60 shakes. a little bit of running water (maybe 1 or 2 min.
-> any consequences ?
When you say "washaid", is this like "photo-flow" or like "hypo-wash"? Photo-flow you would use right at the end, before you hang up your negatives, so if you mean "hypo-wash" it's OK. But 1-2 mins for final wash? That's not long enough.

Should i expect some kind of variation over time on the neg ?
Not sure what you mean. What kind of variation?

I also realise that the last pictures (placed at the "heart" of the tank) where almost all black, does the fact that it was -5°C did have any influence on the ability of the film to react with light ?
No, 5deg C won't do this, and if there was a problem it would be throughout the entire roll. This just sounds like a bad exposure

I ask, because i did almost a roll of TMAX @3200 by -5°C so should i push it a little bit more like 10% processing ?

If you have some advice i'm all ears !

Thanks guys

01-21-2013, 02:14 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by tbreslow Quote
When you say "washaid", is this like "photo-flow" or like "hypo-wash"? Photo-flow you would use right at the end, before you hang up your negatives, so if you mean "hypo-wash" it's OK. But 1-2 mins for final wash? That's not long enough.
it's like Hypo-wash. After using it first, i did what ilford suggest with the 20/40/60 shakes, then a bit of running water, we never know !

QuoteOriginally posted by tbreslow Quote
Not sure what you mean. What kind of variation?
Dunno exactly. Any consequences, like the film keep processing over time and finally disapear ?

One more question, this very first time i did pour all the used chem in the sink, is it a bad idea ?
01-21-2013, 02:46 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by aurele Quote
I also realise that the last pictures (placed at the "heart" of the tank) where almost all black, does the fact that it was -5°C did have any influence on the ability of the film to react with light ?
If it is in the heart or middle of the tank (135mm) then it is the beginning of the film, the part outside of the roll when you load it in the camera.

QuoteOriginally posted by aurele Quote
One more question, this very first time i did pour all the used chem in the sink, is it a bad idea ?
Yes, you should fill the developper in an empty plastic water bottle and bring it to your recycling center. The Ilford Rapid Fixer is reusable.

Last edited by fs999; 01-22-2013 at 02:00 AM.
01-21-2013, 05:54 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by fs999 Quote
Yes, you should fill the developper in an empty plastic water bottle and bring it to your recycling center. The Ilford Rapid Fixer is reusable.
any kind of plastic bottle (PVC) is ok, or should i look for specific plastic like the one used for the chem (PE) ?

i asked the city where i live and they said that they have a truck that collect specificaly photo chem once a month, which is a good news.

I've extensively read spec sheet of all my chem and i can reuse all of them a lot of time ! i will do it for the next rolls.
01-21-2013, 06:40 AM   #26
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Any kind.

With stand development you can pour it in the sink, there is only 1/100 or less of chemistry.
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